clutch plates stuck?

so the gas prices are rose to the point that motivated me enough to get my carbs cleaned. brought it to a professional, and put everything back last night. she started up perfect, and was about to take her for a ride, but as i pulled th clutch in to shift to 1st, it lurched. it was then i realized there was little to no resistance in the clutch lever. tried adjustments on the lever. but still nothing.

the mechanic says that bc it sat so long, its possible the plateds became stuck together. he told me to first open the casing and make sure the cable didn't come off the. i'm a reluctant to take apart something that will be a pain to get boack on iwth my limited knowledge of bikes. just wanted to get ur thoughts, before i open case. i wanted to get her running so i could ride her and drop her off at the shop for them to give it a once-over. but without the clutch working, it kinda messed that plan up short of paing to get it transported there =/

thanks for any advice!

 

I've got the same problem with a 750 Maxim that sat for 6 years.

Did some research here and will try to change the postition of the throw-out rod (where the lower end of the clutch cable attaches to the clutch.) If that doesn't do the trick, I'm tearing it down this weekend. I'll let you know what I find.

 

CLUTCH GUTS: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29541.html

Your bike(s) the 400 and the 750, will have slightly simpler clutches that what is covered in the how-to; you won't have tabbed plain plates or a "clutch boss spring" to worry about; everything else pretty much applies.

 

I too my clutch cover off. The clutch was seized and the wafer bearing was ripped apart. I seperated all the plates and cleaned them up a little. They really don't look damaged or even too worn - just some light rust that should clean up easily. I think they just dried out from sitting so long and seized up. I guess the bearing got wasted because of the seized clutch.

Should I reuse the friction plates or replace? Any tips on collecting all the loose bearings that came out? I'm pretty sure they'll do some major damage floating around the crankcase.

 

Clutch friction plates are like little brake pads. Would you re-use 30 year old "dried out" brake pads?

As long as the plain plates clean up ok with Scotchbrite and aren't warped or burnt blue, they should be fine.

Be sure to replace the springs as well.

Advice on the rollers: get another wafer bearing and count the rollers, then count how many you've found so far. Go "fishing" with a "magnet on a stick" or, worse case scenario, drop the sump. Anything that goes into the void in the clutch cavity goes right into the sump.

 

Good point. I'll order the plates, etc. ordered. I'm just in a hurry to get on the road. I suppose it's pointless if doesn't last.

Too late on the rollers though. I had a few bounce out and roll away when I took the cover off and already tossed the other loose ones I saw in the case. If I went "fishing" I wouldn't know when I'd caught my limit! I'd always fear that one roller I missed.

What do I need to drop the sump?

 

http://www.erickmagnaholder.com/magneticretrievers.htm

SnapOn, MAC or Cromwell, ... Truck-Sold Pro Tools ... (I wish I knew which one) ... has a:

"Bendable, Flex-Shaft 18-Inch, Battery-powered, Strong, Electro-Magnetic Parts and Tool Retriever"

 

I believe on the 750 if you simply pull the exhaust system you will gain the necessary access.

 

Fitz is right, pop the pipes and loosen the bolts holding the pan on, should drop right off.

 

Do these signal something more serious than normal wear? I tried to attach some photos, but I don't think it worked.

My pressure plate was gouged by one of the rollers out of the wafer bearing when it blew up. Obviously needs to be replaced. Another roller ended up in one of the friction plates. I'm replacing them.

The push rod is pitted and dark (tarnished, rusty looking.) The surface where it meets the wafer bearing is very rough. Tough to get that in focus. Replace this too?

The back of the plate I removed from behind the clutch boss spring is scored pretty deeply. Obviously needs to be replaced.

The nut on the boss looks rusty too.

I'm almost afrid to ask, but how would a crankcase rust internally?

This bike sat outside for years. It will start easily and idles smooth, but I've never ridden it. I don't want to risk putting new parts in and chewing them up too.

I've got a parts bike (showing 7K). PO said an ex-boyfriend had blown the motor. Most likely was the ignitor, it's melted. Good compression and no leaks. Should I consider trying to make it my driver instead? Not really what I want to do at this point, but it's an option.

 

That's how. Remember, crankcases are ventilated. In the case of the clutch, it was only half submerged in oil; the other half wasn't. Or if the bike sat on the sidestand, the clutch was sitting completely "dry."

 

Re: clutch plates stuck? w/pics

http://s1136.photobucket.com/albums/n483/thomastx1/

Thanks, Fitz. I added a link to some photos. The bike did live on it's sidestand for 6 years.

I guess what I'm asking is if anyone thinks rusty clutch components alone are an indicator of more serious damage elsewhere in the case? Having never ridden this bike, I don't want to sink any more $$$ into parts if it's a goner.

 

How many miles are on that motor and what kind of compression numbers do you get from it? The trans could be rusty too...

 

Bike has 16K. I checked the compression years ago when I bought it. I don't recall the results, other than a local shops' opinion that they were OK.

Difficult to check it now. I'd need to reassemble the side cover; get it on the center stand and drop the sump to retrieve some wayward roller bearings before cranking the motor.

Stupid question - Can I crank the motor to do a compression test without re-assembling the clutch components?

 

Pretty sure it will work; it does with a 550; cranking the motor will spin the clutch basket. I'm pretty sure the bigger bikes are set up the same in that regard.

 

If it's not going to damage anything by not reinstalling the clutch first, I'll give it a shot. Thanks.

 

If it's now properly oily, either slip the cover back on or shield yourself first; it will FLING OIL everywhere. (Don't ask me how I know.)

 

They are. Cranking the engine with nothing in the basket will spin it harmlessly on our bikes.

 

It ain't harmless if you don't throw a couple rags over it or put the cover on!

When I got my '83, it had a bent clutch basket. (Tipover damage.) To confirm my suspicions, I hit the starter with the cover off and the clutch apart, not realizing just exactly how much oil the gear teeth can actually hold. And with a fresh battery (and no load from the trans) it spins pretty durn fast. 'nuff said.

 

PM sent for spare clutch parts (used)