Too much Brake drag???

After taking of my front rim to get a new tire put on I have noticed that my front calipers brakes are dragging not allowing the rim to free spin.. The brakes seem like they are consistently dragging on the front caliper is this very bad and hurting the drivability of my bike or dangerous?? I inspected the brake pads when I had the tire off the bike but they looked ok one brake pad looked almost new and the other had some life left but not much not scary looking or anything.. Any suggestions on this problem or solutions would be great. reminded I am on a budget on this bike. Thank You

 

The calliper probably requires rebuilding. Moisture in the system causes corrosion which hangs the piston up. While you are doing the calliper also rebuild the master cylinder. Yamaha suggest they be done every two years. This ensures a clean and functional system as the brake fluid absorbs moisture and requires periodic replacement.

Having addressed the front brake, MAKE SURE YOU CHECK THE REAR SHOES FOR DE-LAMINATION. Do not ride until you have done this, the rear wheel can lock up on you.

 

Do you guys think this is killing my gas mileage and could this be dangerous? I want to get some riding in this week. Can I relieve the pads so they back off and arent dragging so much. I can hear continuously hear and feel the pads making contact with the rotor and dosent allow the wheel to free spin.

 

Ain't no probablies about it; your caliper is hanging up and needs to be rebuilt.

Yes, it's dangerous and could lead to an unexpected full lockup or premature wheel bearing failure.

Budget or not, certain things simply cannot be ignored when it comes to brakes. Both master cylinder and calipers need to be rebuit; the original factory recommended lifespan, as pointed out above, was TWO years.

The brake hoses had a four-year recommended replacement interval; they have the mfg. date stamped/printed on them. If yours are original they must be replaced. Period.

Likewise pads; I wouldn't rust my life to 29-year old pads, no matter how little they appear to be worn.

Also, as above, rear brake shoes need to be physically inspected for signs of delamination; you cannot go by how they "feel" or how they work.

I understand being on a budget; but if you can't afford to TRULY FIX the brakes, then park the bike until you can. Your life could depend on it.

 

I just did both caliper and master cylinder rebuilds. I think it cost me a little under $100.00 for parts and shipping and thats including a new set of front pad and brake fluid.

I didn't require any "special" tools (had to make a snap ring puller for the master cyl out of neddle nose pliers) and took only a few hours including bleeding.

Just do it. $100 is a reasonable price for safety.

 

Forget your gas mileage for now, but yes it will make a difference. Think only of your safety. DO NOT RIDE until you have addressed the full brake system, front and rear. Also check the date code of the rear tire. Putting your and others lives at risk isn't worth a few miles of riding enjoyment.

 

Can I do these rebuilds myself I;m not much of a mechanic? Should I just buy rebuild kits or what do I really to get the job done the right way? Thanks

 

Can I do these rebuilds myself I;m not much of a mechanic? Should I just buy rebuild kits or what do I really to get the job done the right way? Thanks

 

It isn't difficult to rebuild these components. Just remember that cleanliness is next to you know who. If you don't have a manual, I suggest that you get one when you are getting the kits. During disassembly lay out the parts in order so you know where they go. Pictures are invaluable. Take them as you go. Remember that brake fluid will remove paint. Don't spill it on painted surfaces and should an accident happen, flush it immediately with lots of water.

The most difficult part of the process is the bleeding out the air. A vacuum bleeder is the best method, followed by conventional pumping pressure then opening the bleeder to make sure all the air is out. You can also fill the master cylinder with fluid, open the bleeder and squeeze the lever to about 2/3 stroke. Close the bleeder and release the lever. Repeat the process untill you get fluid at the bleeder. Then pump and bleed as normal. This process just takes longer and can be frustrating.

 

You need master cylinder and caliper rebuild kits, pads, new lines; and probably rear shoes as well. That's the only real way to do it right.

 

Thanks for all your help and putting me in the right direction I hope I will have success in the rebuilds.. What tools are essential for rebuild just tools that I better make sure that I have for the rebuild?

 

Hey Smokey,
I just did this same job on my 81 750 seca. Not that hard. The only tool I needed to buy was a o-ring puller. I got it at Sears for 10 bucks. The hard part is bleeding the brakes after. I used a syringe and forced clean/new brake fluid from an unopen bottle up thru the bleader screw till the master was full. worked for me. Good luck.

 

Brake Drag is primarily caused by a build-up of Foreign Matter in the Machined Channel which houses the Caliper Main Seal.

Moisture and Brake Dust accumulate behind the Seal and adhere to the Inside Diameter of the Seal Groove.
The effect upon the Caliper is to make the Seal Channel -- "Out-of-Round" -- causing the Seal to Bind the Caliper Piston.

To remedy the situation:
Remove the Caliper.
Remove the Seal.
Scrape the Seal Groove completely clean of Foreign Matter.
Clean the Groove.
Replace the Seal.
Remount the Caliper.
Bleed Brakes.

Note:
After the Seal Channel is Cleaned of ALL Foreign Matter, ... Reassemble the respective Parts using CLEAN BRAKE FLUID as a lubricant.