Valve cover bolt hole stripped

Well I went to adjust the valves for the first time since I've owned the bike yesterday. Turns out one of the outer bolt holes is partially stripped. The bolt strips out when I try to attach the valve cover, but it holds tight when I use the bolt to hold the valve bucket tool. The socket cap screw which came with the valve bucket tool also strips out in the hole. What's the best way to go about repairing this? I've got a set of metric taps, but I'm not sure that simply chasing the hole would fix the problem. Will I need to drill, tap, and helicoil the hole?

 

You might be able to tap to the next size and install a larger bolt but presonally, I would go with the Heli-Coil method. If you can't locate the proper Heli-Coil for the bolt size, you can go up 2 sizes and then install a bolt with permanent strength Loc Tite (if there is enough parent material.) Carefully cut and the grind the bolt flush to the head surface and then use the valve cover as a template to drill into the bolt and tap back to standard (effectively making your own thread insert)

 

Valve cover bolts are pretty special. I'd definitely find the right Heli-Coil for it.

In fact, I have the same issue with the left-front valve cover bolt on my bike. But, since it did manage to hold some torque, and since it's not leaking, I figured I'd leave it until the next valve check.

 

If it's a YICS motor, you can't go to a different bolt. Helicoil it. One of my 550s came to me with all of the outer holes on one side pre-helicoiled. Silly PO.

 

Anyone know what the right size helicoil/drill/tap I need?

 

YICS motor?

 

Yes 82 maxim xj650 with yics.

 

A Helicoil kit will have correct drill, tap, and installation tool. The orininal bolt thread spec ( a sample of the bolt ) is all the supplier should need to make sure you get the right kit.

 

Grainger sell a thread repair that I used it has two pins on the outside of the threads, that lock it so that it can't spin once you intall them. They worked great I used it on mine. I don't have the grainer book here if you need the part number leave me know and I will look it up for you.

 

Key locking inserts are a GREAT way to fix stripped valve cover holes (did mine right nice, stupid P.O.).
Here is a link to my favorite supplier of all things neat:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#key-locking-th ... ts/=cnir8s
I recall my 750 Seca had M6x1.00. Yours might be different so be sure to check. Good luck!

 

Thanks everyone! I guess I will have to take the bolt over to home depot and check it out on their thread/pitch gauge. I've never had to fix threads with a helicoil before so this will be an adventure.

 

There is many things that I haven't done before.... then I bought a 25 year old biker

 

Take a 6x1.0 Bolt
Oil the Threads
Wipe them down
Apply 2 layers of Teflon Tape

Mix-up some JB-Weld
Put some in the Hole
Smear some on the Bolt.
Screw the Bolt in the Hole.

After the Bolt is screwed-into the Hole, ... clean-up.
(Prep the Hole. Mask. Use a Single-hole Paper-punch and cut a hole through the masking tape to place over the hole.)

Clean-up before the JB-Weld hardens.
Peel the tape off.
Leave the Bolt alone until the JB fully cures.

The Bolt will withdraw leaving a repaired Hole with threads that will take 7.5 FtLbs.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CaNEqUKb ... re=related

Well, this stuff is supposed to work like magic, but I would drill all the threads out first. Just a suggestion.

 

That is clever! I may decide to give that a try. Will a helicoil not hold the 7.5 ft-lbs?

 

A Helicoil would definitely hold the required torque. Maybe it's just me, but I've not had the greatest luck with JB Weld. It's been good in a few applications, but I've also found it to be very brittle and that there are a number of surfaces to which it does not adhere well. My first choice, where possible, is to repair metal with metal (welding, soldering, Helicoils, etc).

OTOH, JB Weld is much cheaper than a Helicoil (since you'd need to buy the whole Helicoil kit - probably $15 - $20).

 

I would be leery of the JB Weld repair if the surfaces of the aluminum have been exposed to oil. The pourous nature of the aluminum (sorry, even machined cast aluminum will be pourous) will hold oil residue, inhibiting a solid repair. The epoxy will slip out if you do not get all of the oil out of the damaged area. Alcohol or brake cleaner (a better choice) will be a must. As simple as it is to install a heli-coil makes it the clear choice in my opinion.

 

Thanks for the advice. Picked up a helicoil kit yesterday for $30. Gonna try to repair the threads tonight.