am I on the right track

ok guys im really new to these bikes but ive been digging through these forums pretty hard. When i got the bike it could barely get up to speed bogging and backfiring horribly...... So i did a compresiion test and all cylinders were within 8 psi of 130.... so I then checked the carb boots with propane torch.... good.... then I took checked and cleaned jets, made sure choke fingers were not sticking and set dry height off floats to 17.5 and put new plugs and bench sync the carbs..... running alot better but still running rich and now only bogging at mid range.... Then I found how to remove stubborn drain screws and today started clear tube method on the bike and working on getting those closer because they were not all at the same level, two were really close one lower and then one higher... So my question is am I on the right track.... Get the clear tube method worked out because I'm assuming they're's too many variables to go with dry height float setting.... So work out the clear tube, change plugs, and oil again and if that dosent help colortune maybe???? Thanks guys for the help in advance and a big thanks to all the ones that have shared this information on this site!!!!

 

.1 Check your valves
.2 get those floats set perfect
.3 need to vac sync the carbs (bench sync only gets you close)
.4 colortune
.5 Vac sync and colortune a second time to make sure everything is perfect.
Tips, make sure when you sync and do a colortune that your idle is no more than 1050 rpm. If the bike doesn't run like a champ after doing all these things then you may need to clean and or rebuild the carbs and do these things again.

 

jstephens your on the right track and OldBikerDude laid out the stops for ya.

 

OBD kinda skipped "get those carbs religiously clean and be sure they pass the "clunk test."

Also, when cleaning carbs, DO NOT "dip" the assembled carb or rack in carb cleaner. There are throttle shaft seals that are not easily replaced; yours might actually still be good but not if you dip the carbs and wreck them.

When you cleaned the carbs, did you pull the idle mixture screws, and extract/probably replace the tiny o-rings hidden under the spring and washer?

You are definitely on the right track. Don't rush. When doing the clear tube tests, be sure the rack is "mounted" level in all directions.

 

If you spend the time getting all the technical details checked-off for cleaning and tuning, ... the reward will be great pride and enjoyment.

You'll have the confidence to jump-on and ride to the store; or pack-up and take a trip a great distance from home.

Or maybe you'll just get-on and go get lost for a day. Wind-up with getting back home later-on with sunburn and windburn after a few hours of sooming down the boulevard.

Take you time and get it right the first time.

 

guys thanks tremendously for the help... Today i checked the valves and my feeler gauge is metric and it has .10, .08, .07..etc.... When i checked my exhaust and inlets were all .08... Can it really be that far off from what Ive read... exhaust at .16-.20mm and inlet .11-.15mm... Or does my gauge not read in small enough increments