Axle Spacing ?? Seca 550 Fork Rebuild

Hello everyone! This is my first post here although I've been digging through the forums for the past six months learning a ton. First off thanks to all the helpful and knowledgeable folks, and a shout out to chacal for his great service and affordable parts.

I've never worked on motorcycles before so a lot of this is brand new.

When I put the front wheel into the forks, it seems as though the forks are spaced too wide. Before I tighten down the castle nut there is a good 1/4 inch of space between the inner (wheel side) of the forks and the outer edge of the front wheel axle. Upon inspection it appears that I have all the correct spacers and parts.

I'm worried that tightening the wheel down will crush the forks inward and bend them.

I got the bike as a heap for free, the wheels were on it when i got it and seemed fine. I took the forks off and installed new springs and seals. Could I have put the forks on the wrong way?? presuming I'm not missing a wheel spacer (which I'm pretty sure I'm not) what could be going on? is this normal?

Notice gap between fork dropout and wheel hub.
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This is barely hand tight, notice the cotter pin hole.
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The Project:

 

HMMM, ok so with some more digging around and research i've come to some conclusions.

1) being a bicycle mechanic im used to front bicycle wheels, all you do is tighten the nuts on either side and call it a day.
2) motorcycles are different! (at least these xjs seem to be)

I am still confused though as to why there is so much discussion about this same issue on the forums. A lot a folks seem to be just as confused. Granted the clymers doesn't really explain much of the principles behind this design. But it seems very important to get a wheel installed correctly!

From what i understand now everything tightens up against the right fork leg, the axle spindle is allowed to pull through the left side fork leg to accommodate this. Once everything is torqued to about 70 inch lbs on the right side, then the pinch bolts are snugged to 14 inch lbs.

Is this correct?

Should there still be some play or float to allow the wheel to align with the caliper properly?

(PS I HAVE SINCE ORIENTED THE FENDER CORRECTLY)

 

In regard to how the axle "stacks up" you are correct. Except that's 70 FOOT pounds, and 14 FOOT pounds. But yes, the axle is allowed to "slide" in the clamps during tightening.

The "floating" you're talking about occurs (or is supposed to) in the caliper assembly; the caliper itself should be able to slide from side-to-side (on its "sliding pin") in relation to the caliper holding block that is bolted to the fork leg. The sliding pin often becomes rusted/corroded, preventing the caliper from moving in relation to the holding block and causing the brakes to bind. The caliper is not a single piece as it may appear.

 

Yes I realized my mistake when looking at a torque wrench this morning. :\

I'm used to working mainly in newton meters.

As far as the caliper goes I've done a rebuild on that too. The original piston was seized, and the slide pin was pitted beyond use. Tore it apart, cleaned the bore with fine grit sand paper, burn the old brake/gasket crud out and put in new seals and a stainless piston. New slide pin as well.

Now it's on to bleeding the dry system.... should be fun.

 

New lines too? Originals need to be replaced if over four years old. And don't overlook the master cylinder; those rubber seals are very simple as well and had a factory-recommended two year lifespan.

For bleeding: Use a Mity-Vac or equivalent to start; be sure to put a wrap or two of teflon tape on the bleeder screw so the vacuum doesn't draw "false" bubbles past the threads (but be sure not to cover the bleed hole.)

And buy a BIG bottle of brake fluid; you'll need it.