BATTERIES!!!!!

Simple question I need to replace my battery in my 83 XJ750K Maxim. What is the best battery to get, I want/need high cranking amps. Any suggestions????? Thanks guys. I am looking at the YUASA YTX14AHL-BS.

 

I would say go for the YUASA there great never had a bettor battery, just avoid MF batterys if you get them in the states.

 

Do some research on battery recommendations, you will find PLENTY of fodder. I've used all types with good results from all.

 

I just bought a 14L-A2 PowerSport battery from Sears.

The warranty is 6 Months.

I used to get one they discontinued.
The warranty was 12 months.

I guess they got tired of handing-out batteries that didn't make it for a year.
But, the one I likes would go 2 seasons, ... easy. And stay good to go with just an occasional charging-up by batt charger or runniing the bike for a few minutes.

Oh, the 14L-A2 is a Wet Battery YOU have to Initialize by pouring-in the Battery Acid.

I turned a New set of Jeans into Work Jeans real fast trying to get the Acid into the damn thing with the Mini-hose they supply with the Bottle.

 

I got an AGM battery and love it. No vent tube, no topping up. And holds a charge like a champ.

 

BATTERIES:

Brand new OEM and replacement batteries will certainly solve those slow or no-start problems, but before you buy a battery............read on to determine whether you really need a battery, or whether your situation is due to some other cause.

Of course, if you determine that your battery is ready to take that trip to the great lead-acid Heaven in the sky......or, actually, to a recycling center, such as a local auto parts store........then we have a variety of choices for your specific bike.



How do I know if my battery is good?:

Is it your battery, or your charging system, or something in-between?

The best way to know for sure is to use a multimeter (voltmeter) attached directly to your battery positive and negative terminals, and observe the following:

1) with the engine and all electrical accessories off, the battery should read a minimum of 12.8 volts DC. If not, the battery is either not fully charged, or it is bad (it is incapable of holding a full charge). Charge the battery fully and check again; if the reading is less than 12.8 volts, the battery is bad and should be replaced.

NOTE: most manuals describe checking the specific gravity of each battery cell electrolyte (fluid) as the preferred method of checking the condition of the battery. This reading should be between 1.2650 - 1.280 per cell. If a fully charged battery cannot reach these levels in all cells, then that cell is bad and the battery should be replaced.


2) If the first test above passes, leave the multimeter hooked up to the battery terminals, and press the starter button. While the starter is engaged (but before the bike starts), the battery voltage should be 9.5 volts or greater. If not, then this signals either a bad battery, very dirty or weak electrical connections, or it could be a incredibly problematic starter motor (not likely; it's probably the battery!).


3) if you run into this specific problem:

* "There were a few times when I cranked it, that it ALMOST started. It would start to fire immediately as I let off the start button. But it just wouldn't catch.

Then this is a symptom of a weak battery, due to any number of causes.......

What happens is that as the starter is being engaged, it gobbles up battery voltage. As soon as the start button is released, you now have full battery voltage available TO THE IGNITION CIRCUIT (including the pick-ups, the TCI, and especially the coils), and in that instant when you release the starter button, the coils get enough voltage to produce an adequate spark while the motor is still (by inertia) turning over. If everything is in a great state of tune, the bike will normally kick over. If not, you get the "almost fires" situation explained above, so.........

Test the battery voltage WHILE THE STARTER IS ENGAGED (a voltmeter across the + and - terminals of the battery is all that's needed). It should remain above 9.5 volts while the starter motor is engaged but without the engine running. If it drops below that level while the starter is active, then that's the "problem", and the cause of that problem must be determined and remedied (usually a sign of a bad battery, or it could be a incredibly problematic starter motor).


4) Your charging system output VOLTAGE should be checked, again at the battery terminals, while the engine is running. The measured voltage should be:

* 14.2 - 14.8 Volts at about 2,000 rpms for all non-X models, and the same voltage for "X" models, but at about 3,000 rpms. Again, you would measure these voltages at the battery terminals with your voltmeter.

NOTE: If your alternator is outputting more than 14.8 volts to the battery, your regulator-rectifier unit is bad and should be replaced. Over-charging a battery will quickly ruin it, and may cause severe damage or failure of other electrical components, such as the TCI or the computer monitor system (on bikes so equipped).


Here's your cheat sheet on all of the above:


Static Battery Voltage Test

Prior to conducting this test, make sure the battery has not been
recently charged. You must wait at least one hour after charging
your battery to conduct this test.

a) Adjust voltmeter to DC volts (20 volt range).

b) Place voltmeter leads to the battery terminals (positive to positive and negative to negative).

c) Read voltage and refer to the chart below.

State of Charge:

100% Charged with Sulfate Stop:
Using a syringe Hydrometer: 1.280
Using a Digital Voltmeter: 12.80 volts
Using a Floating-Ball Hydrometer: 5 balls floating


100% Charged:
Using a syringe Hydrometer: 1.265
Using a Digital Voltmeter: 12.60 volts
Using a Floating-Ball Hydrometer: 4 balls floating


75% Charged:
Using a syringe Hydrometer: 1.210
Using a Digital Voltmeter: 12.40 volts
Using a Floating-Ball Hydrometer: 3 balls floating


50% Charged:
Using a syringe Hydrometer: 1.160
Using a Digital Voltmeter: 12.10 volts
Using a Floating-Ball Hydrometer: 2 balls floating


25% Charged:
Using a syringe Hydrometer: 1.120
Using a Digital Voltmeter: 11.90 volts
Using a Floating-Ball Hydrometer: 1 ball floating


0% Charged:
Using a syringe Hydrometer: less than 1.100
Using a Digital Voltmeter: less than 11.80 volts
Using a Floating-Ball Hydrometer: 0 balls floating




Starting Load Test:

a) Adjust voltmeter to DC volts (20 volt range).

b) Place voltmeter leads to the battery terminals (positive to positive and negative to negative) .

c) Watch the voltmeter as you start your motorcycle, but before the engine is running.

d) If the voltage drops below 9.5 volts, the battery has very low capacity and should be replaced.




Charging System Tests:

a) Adjust voltmeter to DC volts (20 volt range).

b) Place voltmeter leads to the battery terminals (positive to positive and negative to negative).

c) Start the engine.

d) Bring engine up to approximately 2,500 rpm's.

e) Compare the voltage reading to the specification given below:

For all XJ-series models, the maximum available charging output VOLTAGE should be as follows (all values are approximate):

* approximately 500-2000 rpms: 1.8 volts gradually increasing to 14.2 volts
* 2000+ rpms: 14.2 volts up to about 14.8 volts, with a maximum of 14.8 volts (all models except XJ700-X and XJ750-X)
* 3000+ rpms: 14.2 volts up to about 14.8 volts, with a maximum of 14.8 volts (all XJ700-X and XJ750-X)


NOTE: the voltage reading must be approximately 14.0 - 14.5 volts to properly charge an AGM battery......anything less, and you will quickly kill these type batteries!

If your charging voltages are too low, suspect the alternator brushes first, then perform the alternator stator and rotor checks as described in the Alternator Section elsewhere in the catalog.

If your charging voltages are too high, suspect your Regulator - Rectifier unit first, and perhaps dirty or corroded electrical terminals. The procedure for checking these is too detailed to describe here, and you should consult your service manual for additional details.


5) Check the condition of your main circuit terminals.....they should be zestfully clean and uncorroded, or you're primed for a variety of problems......not only will your circuits not be getting full power out of your battery, but to add insult to injury, your charging system may think that the battery needs more juice, and so it starts cranking out amps like there's no tomorrow. It's pretty safe to say that neither of those two occurrences qualify as a Good Thing (tm), so...........start at the beginning, and inspect and clean (and then protect, like with di-electric grease or equivalent) all the [/b] terminal connection points[/b]:

* the positive battery post connection to the positive battery cable.
* the positive battery cable connection to the starter relay (or "solenoid").
* the main harness terminal connector from the starter relay.
* the main lead from the starter relay to the starter motor (both ends).
* the "main fuse" contacts inside the fusebox.
* the battery ground cable contacts at both the engine case and at the negative battery post (poor ground are just as bad as poor positive feeds; after all, it takes two to tango, or to complete a circuit, and electricity doesn't care where the restriction occurs).



Battery and Charging System Results:

Okay, now with all of the above out of the way, you should be able to determine whether you need a new battery, or not. There's no need to waste money on a replacement battery if it's not the root cause of your problems. If your battery is good, but your charging system or electrical system isn't, then spend your time and money on fixing the root causes of the problem........such efforts will also help prevent you from murdering your otherwise good battery.

But assuming that your battery is ready to be retired, the question then becomes, which battery?----as they come in a variety of types and price ranges (and, as with most things in life, the more you spend, typically, the better quality you'll get when it comes to a "commodity" product such as a battery).


Basically, motorcycle batteries are of two basic types, the flooded cell type (sometimes called a "wet cell" or "conventional" battery) and the AGM or "absorbed glass mat" type.

Your original-style, Yuasa-brand battery was a "conventional" type, and these are now available in both their original configuration, or in a high-performance version that can output more amperage than the standard style-----and this is typically a cost-effective upgrade.


AGM batteries feature cell separators made of fiberglass mats that minimize the movement of electrolyte (acid), and prevent spillage if tipped over on their side. The acid formulation in these also typically a bit stronger compared to flooded cell batteries, which accounts for their typically higher output. AGM batteries are of the permanently sealed, "maintenance-free" design, thus never requiring the further addition of water or acid.

The charging system of many modern motorcycles that come factory-equipped with an AGM type battery uses a regulator/rectifier that outputs a slightly higher voltage than a flooded cell battery requires. Using an AGM in almost any motorcycle will usually work well, while using a flooded cell battery in a bike designed for an AGM type will often result in overcharging and quick boiling of the electrolyte solution -- it isn't long before the battery is dry and possibly ruined. Of course, all of our XJ-series bikes came originally with a conventional wet ("flooded") type battery, so replacing them with the AGM types is not a problem or issue.

AGM type batteries are also more tolerant of sitting for long periods with minimum formation of lead sulfate (sulfation) on the plates. They can usually be charged at a slightly higher rate and in general provide better performance over the long haul. However, once AGM batteries are "dead"; they're dead, and cannot usually be brought back to life (even for a short amount of time) like a conventional battery can.


Finally, be aware that while AGM batteries are sometimes incorrectly called "gel cells batteries", a true "gel cell" type of battery is quite a bit different, and is actually not recommended for motorcycle use.



Battery FAQ's:


What is a conventional (or "wet" or "flooded") battery?:

These are the standard automotive type design battery, with individual push-in or screw-in battery cell access caps, and normally need the periodic addition of distilled water to "top up" the fluid level.


What is a "maintenance-free" battery?:

Maintenance-free batteries do not require the addition of water after their initial fill of their water/acid electrolytic solution. It means that it is a "sealed" battery, with no filler caps. Note that while conventional "wet" batteries may be available in a sealed, maintenance-free variety, AGM batteries are always of this sealed, maintenance-fee type.


What is a "high-performance" battery?:

Due to plate design and other factors, high-performance batteries have a denser charge ability and will output more amps for a longer period of time (this is the so-called Cold Cranking Amps or CCA rating number that is used to describe a battery) before full discharge. Although there have been some interesting technological "enhancements" to the basic conventional battery design over the years, almost all "high-performance" (meaning, higher-capacity) batteries rely on more lead material in their plates, resulting in a physically heavier battery. More lead = more money to manufacture and transport the battery, which is why these batteries cost more.


What is an AGM battery?:

AGM is an abbreviation for "absorbed glass mat". In this battery design, the acid is completely absorbed into glass mat separators which are sandwiched between the lead plates. It's a totally sealed and maintenance free design. There are no discharge tubes or fillers caps, which eliminates the need to maintain water levels and offers no concern about acid leaks on valuable parts and accessories.

AGM batteries offer the following advantages over conventional batteries because:

a) their sealed, maintenance-free design means you never have to worry about checking nor maintaining their fluid levels.

b) AGM batteries, unless physically damaged, will not leak or corrode your paint and chrome.

c) they have less internal resistance which offers more cranking amperage than wet batteries.

d) their lower self-discharge rate means they can sit for extended periods of time without constant monitoring. A conventional wet battery discharges 15% a month, where our AGM batteries discharge only 2-3% a month.

e) you can expect a longer service life be expected from an AGM battery-----the main reason conventional wet batteries fail is due to water levels that are not properly monitored and maintained. Conventional batteries are also not very heat nor vibration resistant. AGM batteries are much more heat and vibration resistant than conventional batteries, and of course are maintenance-free, all of which contribute to their longer service life.


What is a gel-cell battery?:

A type of battery that you do not want to use in your XJ-series bike!


What are the electrical specifications for an original battery?:

all XJ550 and XJ650 models:

Capacity: 12ah
Charging rate: 10 hours @ 1.2A
CCA's: 113


all XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900RK models:

Capacity: 14ah
Charging rate: 10 hours @ 1.4A
CCA's: approximately 130


XJ1100 models:
Capacity: 20ah
Charging rate: 10 hours @ 2.0A
CCA's: 260


How should a battery be maintained?:

Good battery maintenance allows you to get the maximum power and life from your battery:

a) always keep the acid level between lower and upper lines on front side of the container (for conventional type batteries that are not sealed).

b) do not let the battery remain in a discharged condition for any length of time. Discover and remedy the cause of such a condition immediately.

c) when a bike is stored for over 30 days at a time, use an automatic battery charger to maintain a proper storage charge.

d) keep the top of the battery case clean, dry, and free of dirt or moisture.

e) clean the battery terminals to prevent corrosion, and treat them to some anti-corrosion spray or coat their exposed areas with di-electric grease. Do not over-tighten the terminal cinch bolts!

f) inspect the battery vent tube regularly, ensuring that it is not bent, twisted or clogged, especially at the bottom of the tube, where it discharges towards the ground......this is the most common place where the tube will get clogged via road debris, etc.

g) protect the battery from strong impacts or shocks.


How long will my new battery live?:

Regardless of battery type or manufacture, you can expect a properly activated, and properly maintained battery (meaning it's neither overcharged nor overly or repeatedly allowed to become fully discharged) to give you 2-4 solid years of life.

Heat is the big enemy of motorcycle batteries----they'll last much longer in a cool climate than a hot one. The self-discharge rate of a battery can run as high as 3% a day in hot weather with a flooded cell battery to about 1% or less per day with an AGM type. Overcharging a battery also overheats a battery---a double whammy! Make sure your charging system is in good order to get the maximum life from your battery.

Constant, repeated complete discharges of a battery will also reduce their lifespan. There's only so many times you can "drain the well" before a battery electrically gives up the ghost.


What are some of the best ways to kill a battery?:

a) Let a discharged battery freeze. Fully discharged batteries freeze at about +25-F, or just below the freezing temperature of water. Fully charged batteries freeze at about 75-F below zero. 'Nuff said........

b) Let a battery overheat.

c) Overcharge the battery........either via the use of an incorrect (or poor quality or defective battery charger), a charging system regulator gone bad, or highly corroded (high resistance) wiring harness connections within the system.

d) "Quick-charge" the battery using an incorrect style battery charger.

e) Allow the fluid level (for wet or conventional batteries) to get too low. This exposes the plates to air, which cause the plates to "sulfate", which leads to increased electrical resistance and a drop in power output.

f) Run a battery down into deep-discharge. Each full discharge event causes sulfate build-up on the lead plates. Do this enough times.....like when your charging system isn't outputting properly........and you'll kill a battery pretty quickly.

g) On conventional batteries, do not use regular tap water to fill or re-fill the battery. Tap water contains minerals and metals that will shorten the life of a battery. Always use distilled or de-mineralized water to fill a battery.


What about my original battery fluid level sensor?:

Some original models with the "computer" dashboard monitor system (1982 XJ750 Maxim, 1981-83 XJ750 Seca, and XJ1100 models) had a low-battery-fluid warning light on the dash, triggered by a fluid-level sensor which replaced one of the battery cell screw-in caps. If the fluid level in that battery cell was too low to trigger the sensor, the circuit in the computer dash warning system would read that as a low-voltage condition and would then illuminate the warning light.

So of course, the first issue in regards to these sensors is: if the light is on, first check your fluid level!

But other issues arise: it could be that the tip of the sensor has become dirty, or encrusted with deposits, in which case even if the fluid level is fine, it will still sense a low-voltage condition. This can be remedied with a gentle cleaning of the sensor tip (steel wool, brass bristle brush, etc.).

Also, the sensor reads voltage, and without enough voltage to trigger the computer system, the light illuminates. The wire path from the sensor goes through your ignition switch and if this switch has electrically "dirty" internal contacts, then that can add enough resistance to cut the voltage signal enough to trigger the dash "low Batt" warning light or display, even though the sensor is fine and the fluid level is okay! So: remove the ignition switch, and its bottom plate, and clean the copper contacts inside the ignition switch.

Finally: a few issues arise with replacement batteries in regards to the use of sensors:

a) some batteries are designed to allow you to re-use your original sensor (we also offer a replacement sensor in case your original is missing or damaged). These conventional-style batteries will feature screw-in caps and your original sensor will screw right in place (by the way, the sensor must be installed in the 4th cell over from the negative post or it will not work correctly and may damage your dash computer!).

b) but some aftermarket batteries, even though they have screw-in caps, have a different "plate depth" internally, and even though the original sensor will screw into the cell port, the sensor tip will be too deep and contact the lead plates in the battery which will cause battery, sensor, and dash computer damage! Thus you must be careful with aftermarket batteries, and measure the depth of the cell, and if it's shorter than that of an original battery, you must use plastic spacer shims (washers) to space an original sensor "upwards" to the proper depth for such batteries, or carefully trim the sensor tip shorter so that it does not ever contact the internal plates.

c) other aftermarket batteries will have push-in rather than screw-in caps. An original sensor will not fit into these batteries unless that one cell port is "threaded" to accept the sensor. This can be best accomplished by gently screwing into the cell port a proper sized and thread steel bolt, and thus "cutting threads" of the proper size into that cell port opening. Now your original screw-in sensor can be properly installed; however, the same warnings as in issue "b" above (in regards to the depth of the cell) must be observed and remedied, if necessary. Of course, make sure that as you cut these new threads into the battery case, that any plastic "shavings" that are created by this threading process do not get into (or are removed) the battery cell.

d) some of the replacement Yuasa batteries that we offer come with a replacement sensor.......in which case, you discard (or save) your original sensor and just hook up your sensor wire lead to this new sensor.

e) some aftermarket batteries.....such as the replacement "maintenance-free" (sealed) and all AGM batteries......have no "cell caps" and thus are not going to accept a sensor, at all. This present a problem, since the lack of voltage to the dash computer makes it think that there is a battery problem, and the red warning light or display message is always on or blinking at you. Although you can "reset" this annoyance away, there are two other solutions available to you in order to disable or bypass this function:

i) on models that use a warning light, you can simply remove the bulb from your dash! No more "warning" of a low battery fluid condition (except on the LCD display screen), but no more annoying blinking light, either.

ii) on all models, you can install our HCP9982 sensor bypass wire that duplicates the function of the original sensor.



What are the best battery myths?:

a) that putting a battery on a cement floor will cause it to discharge. This may have been true a long time ago, when the battery case was made of a rubber material, which would develop hairline cracks and thus allow moisture to permeate into the case, opening up an electrical circuit which would quickly discharge a battery. Modern batteries use molded plastic cases that do not suffer from such a fate.

b) that bringing a battery inside during the winter will prolong its life. Batteries produce electricity via a chemical reaction, and the chemical reaction results in the production of sulfate deposits on the lead plates within the battery, and these sulfate deposits act as electrical insulators----thus reducing the power output and the overall life of the battery. These chemical reactions slow down dramatically with lower temperatures. As long as your battery does not freeze, the lower the temperature, the less the amount of chemical reactions taking place, thus prolonging the life of the battery!

Remember, heat is one of the things that wears out batteries, because they speed up the amount and intensity of these chemical reactions that creates the sulfate deposition on the lead plates.....and those deposits are what really "kills" the battery.

By the way, the main reason why your car or bike cranks over so slowly during winter is not due to "thicker oil" (multi-viscosity oils took care of that issue a long time ago), but because of the decreased chemical reactions (meaning less electrical output generation) within the battery due to those lower temperatures.


Can I jump-start my dead motorcycle battery from a car battery?:

Yes, BUT.................

a) you need to make sure that you are using the proper gauge jumper cables.

b) hook the jumper cables up incorrectly (+ to -) and if you're lucky, you'll just burn up your TCI unit. If you're unlucky, you'll blow up your battery, your bike, or yourself.

c) make sure that your key switch and all electrical power drains are OFF before you hook up the jumper cables.

d) the best sequence of battery connection is to hook up both jumper cables onto the dead battery first, and then connect the positive lead to the good battery, and finally the negative lead to the good battery (or a good ground on the donor battery frame, etc.).



Your quest for more battery knowledge may still remains unsatisfied; if so, a great battery tutorial can be found at:

http://www.batteryfaq.org

and

http://www.dansmc.com/batteries.htm




BATTERIES:

All of the following batteries are high-quality, the correct size to fit into your battery box, and have the proper terminal orientations for your bike.

All batteries can be shipped only with the USA, and can be shipped either via ground or air delivery. However, due to the weight of the batteries, the free or reduced shipping discounts do not apply to these items!


NOTE: all batteries come with cable terminal attaching bolts and nuts; all non-sealed batteries have the overflow tube included; and all batteries come with charging instructions which must be followed exactly in order to not damage the battery during initial charging! AGM batteries come charged, but you should check the voltage and slowly (meaning with the use of a "trickle charger") bring the battery back to full charge before first use.....doing otherwise will void any manufacturer's warranty!

NOTE: on all non-sealed ("wet" or "conventional" style batteries) always be sure to remove the small red seal from the overflow vent tube when installing the battery. Never put this red tube back on to the battery after it is activated. Gases built up in a battery that is not allowed to vent can cause serious damage, and possible serious injury, if the battery bursts.

 

Double-check the Yuasa website and the terminal locations on your bike.

I think the "AH-L" might have the terminals backward from where you need them, the "AH" has all the same specs with the terminals flipped around.

 

OK everyone thanks for all the good information I'm defiantly going AGM I have a 14L-A2 and its terminals are opposite what was originally in the bike. I'll start doing some research on terminal placement. The 14L-A2 is a low cranking amp battery, at least the ones available localy are. I'm looking for at least 220 cranking amps.

 

Motobatt - one helluva battery and has a curious 4 terminal feature ie 2 x pos and 2 x neg for max flexibility!

http://boulevardowners.com/cafe/index.c ... cID=176271


Buy one here
http://www.intruderalert.com/cafe/index ... cID=181264

 

Pumbas build thread shows me researching, then buying a MotoBatt.
I had recently left the bike sitting for 2 weeks (winter here). Cranked for ages, this is the first time in living memory that something has cranked longer than my 'expect it to go' clock.

I then fixed the problem (zero fuel) and survived in winter without having to connect the charger.

 

Be careful. The XJ's electrical/charging/regulating system is delicately "balanced." Don't fit a battery with different specs than original (sure, take advantage of new technology) and expect the charging system to work correctly. Both the owners' and service manuals caution about fitting a battery of different spec.

 

I have been using a AGM battery for the past 6 months with absolutely no problems what-so-ever. They hold a charge better , have more cranking amps and are maintenance free. Sounds like a good thing to me. I use the brand MotoBatt. They stand behind their product with a good warranty and they are very helpful and you can find out which battery to use by just calling them. They have good customer service.

 

When I checked with the dealer the batteries available for the XJ750 was limited to ones that use the battery sensor. The other option was the AGM. The local dealer tried to tell me that my 83 XJ750K Maxim used the battery sensor system.

 

I've had a maintenance free battery in my Seca since I got it. No ill effects yet. Cranks like a champ!

It's just a slight bit wider than the stock battery so it sits on a little bit of an angle, side panel goes on all the way tho. Strap holds it in good and tight.

 

The guidelines regarding batteries are more of a liability issue then a operating issue. This because of the differences in the physical dimensions of the batteries. You put in to large a battery its your fault if you short something out doing so. Electrically a battery nether draws nor puts out more then the system demands or delivers. Overloading your system with electrical goodies is what causes the problems. Your system was built to carry a predetermined load increase that load and you damage components. The only danger of going larger with a battery is shorting on the frame.

 

I purchases an "XS Power" AGM cell battery from Inglis Cycle here in London last spring -- so this is my 2nd year running it. As I remember, it was around $50. Have to ask about it, as it's not in the usual MotoVan or PartsCanada catalogues. Exact replacement, just don't use the overflow tube

I charge and maintain it with this charger from Can Tire:
Smart Charger
I left it connected to the charger most of the winter - from about January till when I started it up late April.

Tons of power, spins the motor effortlessly, and never had an inkling of trouble with it yet....

 

Ok I'm a newbie to bikes, I keep seeing alternator in the post I've been reading, trying to figure out my charging problem, but haven't seen anything refering to the stator. Are they the same thing? My battery was new but went bad, had it replaced along with the regulator/ rectifier, and now people I talk to around town and at work say to check the stator. Just curious if the stator and alternator are the same? Thanks in advance.

 

The "stator" is PART of the alternator. It's the part that doesn't move.

Start with your alternator brushes, and clean the contact faces on the rotor. Those are the "wear" items.

 

I agree, I've got a yuasa too and it's been great.

 

One more with an AGM battery very happy with it in every way.