Keeping my XJ alive.

I bought this beast about 2 years ago for $100.00. 1980 XJ 650 maxim. The P.O. stored it outside and then completely neglected it after buying a new yami for two years.

When I brought it home it did not turn over, it did not start, it did not go, it did not stop, the top of the tank was nothing but rust and bubbled paint. It was a 600 lbs paper weight. She had 35,000 miles on her.







So far I:
replaced battery
replaced plugs
replaced a few plug boots
replaced air filter
cleaned the carbs (three times)
set the floats
bench sync
rebuilt the MC
front caliper
good bleed
flushed the forks
changed the fork oil
changed the oil and filter (duh)
painted the tank
painted the side covers
replaced two turn signal housings
did a quick repair on the fuse box
inspected the wheel bearings
inspected the head set bearings
replaced the fuel hoses
added a fuel filter

The to do list for this month is:
check the valve clearance
replace the valve cover gasket
vac sync
install bike master euro bar
install stainless steel brake lines
replace rear brake shoes
replace pilot screw orings and seats
replace tach seal and oring.
Also may try a ninja 600R MC too.

 

Re: Keep my XJ alive.

you sir have there a epic win!

 

Ya' done GOOD looks really NICE!!!

skillet

 

Love to see these old bikes back on the street. Nicely done!

 

Great job

 

Where did you get the exhaust tips?

Looks great!

 

I believe they are a MAC 4-2 system with the "turn out" style mufflers. I actually don't care for them. I was going to chop the "turn out" part off and call it a day. lol.

In other news, Got the Bikemaster Euro Bars on. Like them so far but may be too high for future mods. I guess I'll see then.

Because I changed the buckhorn bars to something a little more "modern", I thought that it was a good idea to change out the master cylinder. The replacement MC was off a Kawi Ninja 600 R. The donor bike had dual front calipers with anti-dive.

Bleeding the system has never been easier.... Really. The MC moves soo much fluid that the bleeding of a half dry system took 20 minutes. However, now the lever is super tight... Like it takes a good amount of effort to really get a good brake.

I have gone too far! lol... I'm not sure what size the piston is on the Ninja MC but I would assume much larger than the stock XJ. I'm going to drive it for a week and see what happens.

 

Checked the valves yesterday and a few were a little tight. I think I'm going to baby it for the rest of the season and swap shims over the winter. Synced the carbs tonight. Idles nice (first time it has been below 1700rpm in a long time!!!) All were within 1"mg, that should do I hope. Drove it around the block and felt good (ran good before so no real surprise there....) Rain is over and should be nice tomorrow for my commute, I'll see then if my hard work paid off.

 

fruits of my labor.... bikes running sweet!

 

HOW tight? Wouldn't want to burn a valve by putting it off; especially after all that work.

 

.12 or .11 if I remember correctly for one exhaust and .10 or .09 for 3 of the 4 intakes.

 

Don't put it off. And you will need to re-sync afterward.

Running at .12mm or .11mm on exhaust valves that are supposed to be at .16~.20 is courting disaster.

Valve clearances are the FIRST step in carb sync/tuning; shouldn't be an "afterthought."

I would hate to see all that hard work go to waste.

 

How did you paint it? Did you paint the top of the carbs black, or is that just a reflection? I plan on painting my bike but I dont have the proper tools and was wondering how bad a can of spray paint would look.

 

I rattle canned both the primer and the color. The paint is dupli-color engine enamel... Although, I'm not too happy how easily the semi-gloss paint is marred and stained (gas, shoe scuffs). I kinda wish I went with something different. But YES rattle cans can be used, just made sure to do the last coat with long, even, over-lapping sprays.

As for the carb hats, I hit them with a stainless wire brush on a dremel to clean them up followed by a quick scuff with a 3M pad and a wash. Let them dry.

I hit them with a bit of primer. The paint is Dupli-color, engine enamel, semi-gloss black. I put on 2 good medium wet coats. Followed by 2 dustings from about 18" away to add some texture (and hide the pitting from the rust).

Really it only took an hour but it made a be difference!

 

I just snagged a KZ650 Tank from ebay for $40 shipped! It isn't the best cafe' tank but it will do for now

Looks like this but with a bad black paint job.

 

Well... It's spring time and I'm back at it.

The list for far:
Replaced 4 valve shims
Replaced the Valve cover gasket
Replaced the tach seals
Replaced oil filter
Replaced all the seals associated with the oil filter
Replaced left side engine gasket
Replaced shift shaft seal
Replaced spark plugs
Replaced one carb bowl gasket
Replaced all the carb hat screws with Stainless hardware
Cleaned and polished the bowl drain needles
Checked that all the carbs mouths were flat on a glass shelf
Painted coils with 2 thick coats of liquid electrical tape
Polished some parts
Painted my rusty headlight bucket black
Re-sync'ed the carbs
Changed the oil

Took her for a quick spin and it ran top notch... Now I just wait for the morning temps to get out of the 30's... Just it time for the gas prices here to go through the roof!