Looking to buy 1982 Maxim. Got a couple of questions.

Hi, I am new to motorcycling been riding for about a year a 200cc scooter and I am ready to move up to the next step.

I am looking to buy a 1982 XJ650 Maxim and had a handful of questions:

- what should I look for when I go inspect the motorcycle? It has 20k miles.
- how hard is it to get replacement parts?
- are parts going to be more expensive than for a newer motorcycle?
- anything else that I should know about these motorcycles?
- anything specific that I should ask the buyer?
- any upcoming major maintenance items that will be due shortly (or should have been done given it's mileage?

Thank you very much. I absolutely love the look of the Maxim and from what I read in this great forum, if it has been properly maintained, it is a great purchase as a first motorcycle.

 

Welcome from VA. The first things I would look at would be obvious things.
Date code on tires
Compression test on all cylinders
No leaks
Brakes
Is it running
Replacement parts are not hard to find. Len has them all right here on this link. I don't think they are any more expensive that newer bikes.

Don't believe anything the previous owner (po) tells you. I would change all fluids, and check the rear brakes out for delamination. Do a search. Its all on here. This is an excellent site for everything you need to know about these bikes and the people on here are more than willing to lend a hand to help you out. Post where you are located also. Someone might be right next to you that could help out. Good Luck and welcome again!

 

I'm fairly new to these xj's, but I'd be happy to throw in my $0.02.

Bring along a compression tester when you go look at it (and, if needed, someone who knows how to use it). Test it dry, then wet. If it fails dry, add a little oil and try it again. If the compression is better in test two, the piston rings may need some work. If it fails both tests, it's not likely worth your time. Unless, of course, you're into major engine overhauling.

Take a good look at the date codes on the front brake lines, and on the tires. Ask/check if the rear drum brake has been checked or changed. From what I've learned here, it's a scary prospect if it hasn't been inspected.

Have a look at the fusebox. The old 'glass tube' style fuses and box are usually upgraded, eventually, to a newer atv-style blade fuse box.

Any other modifications from stock (exhaust, air pods, electric), when did it last run or run well? Maintenance history?

I'm sure the more experienced xj'ers here will fill you in on more, this is just what I've picked up so far. The more info about the upgrades/mods and specifics about any problems you're having you can give, the easier it'll be for them to answer; they're fantastic!

So far I've lurked and read mostly. This forum, the XJCDs, Chacal, they are phenominal resources. Maybe a bit of time losing yourself in the forums or forum searches would serve you well for more things to consider.

 

Thank you, this is really helpful. Are these generally good bikes? The one that I am looking at is an '82 XJ650 Maxim, 19K miles and he is selling it for $800.

In terms of a compression test, where do I buy it and how hard is it to use?

I am in Wyckoff, NJ

 

if the bike starts up, drives , in good working order, and he can prove its ridable. No major rust anywhere and tiers arnt dry rooted bad, starts up with out a issue and 100% turn key then yes, ... But is it worth 800 to you? because yuour going to be riding it?

 

Compression testers are widely available; most auto parts stores sell nice kits for under $30.

It's no more difficult to use than changing a spark plug. You remove a spark plug and screw in the fitting for the gauge.

DO NOT BOTHER WITH THE PUSH-ON TYPE OF COMPRESSION GAUGE; be sure you get one that screws into the plug hole.

Use is simple: Remove all 4 spark plugs. UNPLUG BOTH TCI module connectors (to prevent damage.) Hold or block throttle wide open. Install gauge, crank motor until pressure reading stops rising, usually about 5~6 "cranks." Record the reading, do the next cylinder.

Actual readings, as long as in, or close to spec, are not as important as the differential between cylinders. You want to see no more than about a 10% difference between cylinders.

Don't worry too much about things like tires and brakes, because you'll be replacing/rebuilding those anyway, unless brand new. You can plan on putting about $600~$800 more into an $800 bike to get it truly safe and roadworthy. You mainly want to be sure the motor's tight.

 

I just spoke with the seller and asked him about maintenance records. He said that he and his dad did all of the maintenance but the he has Zero records.

Run away or offer him $500 and take a chance provided that it runs well?

 

Only people with enough money to take their bike to the shop have records...if he did have a record how would you know it wasn't manufactured? You won't have any records yourself once you start doing the maintenance, which you will do like it hasn't been done so it doesn't really matter if it has or not. No one mentioned anything about checking records anyway...it's all about the compression test. That's the only problem that's out of most people's reach. And unless you know a lot, it can still "run good" with cracked rings or burnt valves.

Don't buy a cheap bike because you think it's going to be cheap. Like fitz said, you will pay more to get that bike good to go. These bikes are inexpensive, but if your budget is $800, you don't have enough to buy a motorcycle that you can ride tomorrow. If you want to get it now and make installments on the work, that's fine though.

 

Oh, golly yes. If all you have is $800 don't expect to RIDE a bike you buy for that.

I paid $800 for my '81 and even though the PO rode it to my house, it took a good 5~6 months and another $600 worth of parts before it was safe enough for me to actually USE it.

If the bike is GORGEOUS then you might get away with $500~$600 to get it safe and reliable again. Otherwise, like I said, plan on another $600~$800 for a proper "recommissioning."

A compression test is NOT "out of reach" of anyone expecting to own and maintain a 30-year old bike. Brother, if you can't run a compression test, you're gonna be in WAY over your head on all of the much more involved stuff that comes down the pike. If you're willing to learn then doing a compression test is a good first step. Plus it can save you a world of headaches in the future.

We've had a WHOLE LOT of posts from members recently, some old and some new, who discovered one really bad cylinder in their seemingly "good running" XJ. Really bad, like 60psi.

I won't buy a bike without doing a compression test on it so I at least know what I'm getting into or can decide to walk away.

 

I bought my XJ650 seven or so years ago for $1200. Cosmetically it was very good.

Here is what I had to do to it:

Front axle pinch bolt
Tires
Fuel valve seal
Float valves
Valve lash
Sync carburetors and set mixtures.

I upgraded the lighting, added a brake light modulator and a couple removable soft bags with supports I fabricated myself and a set of case guards. All total about $500 from the pocket and quite a bit of my time.

I sold it a couple years later for $1300.

So I had $1700 into a $1300 bike. I made out well.

The point of all this is that it's cheaper to buy one someone else went over than to do it yourself.

People routinely bring me motorcycles they spent under $1,000 on. Then they're shocked to find out it needs $1,000 to $2,000 of parts and labor. The ones that proceed end up with a motorcycle they could have bought for $1,500 or so. Buying a good one is WAY cheaper than paying to have one fixed up.

If you want to learn to twist wrenches and are looking for a hobby a cheaper one may be worthwhile.

One thing I don't think has been mentioned is forks. Grab the front brake and bounce the front suspension. If there are oily rings on the fork tubes there is the potential for an expensive repair.

 

When you look at a Bike that you are thinking about buying; it's pretty important to factor-in WHO you are buying the bike FROM.

There are good deals and there are some that you shouldn't even consider.
You should be able to get a feeling from the seller if his story adds-up, or it sounds fishy.

One of the most important factors is how you are able to answer the next question.

*. After sizing-up the Bike and having a good idea of what will be needed to make it "Road Worthy" again, ... do you have the time, money and skills needed to do the job?