use of the shim tool

dear friends, I am still stuck with changing my shims. I cannot figure out how to use the shim tool.
I am attaching a lousy drawing of the tool's cross section. My question is: which part of the profile is used to hold the outer rim (surrounding the old shim) down? The vertical stem of the "T"?
Please help me out. It is summer, I want to ride the ##$%@@#%$ bike...

well, I keep getting a message of "internal error" and am unable to attach the drawing. The computer tells me to write the administrator and call him names, but I would never do this!
Those of you who know "the tool", will know that it has a kind of elevated "ridge" along the middle of the outside arc. If you imagine a cross-section, it will look like the stem of a "T" letter. Is it what keeps the shim rim down?

 

I can only think of the tool fitting one way. The 'wings' of the T have the screw holes for attaching the tool. The 'tip' of the T (at least on mine) has a smaller 'nub.' That's what rests on the rim of the valve cup to hold it down. So looking at your description and mine, I have to say, yes, you're on the right track.

 

Have you tried this thread. Bigfitz has put together a very informative write-up with pics.

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29209.html

 

The folded Cable Tie trick worked fantastic for me.......

 

thanks guys, I think I will go kind of viking and try the cable tie trick. This tool is driving me bonkers. I will make this engine turn or die trying!
See ya, I'll keep you posted.
Aharon the savage

 

If you have an "After-Market" Shim Tool, ... purchased from MotionPro, ... send it back!

The MotionPro Shim Tool DOES NOT WORK on the 750 Engine.
Pizziz-me-off.
I tried every-which-way until I called them and they told me that they were getting a lot of complaints.

I wound-up going to my local Dealer and making a deal with a Tech I know there.
I borrowed "The Yamaha REAL McCoy" and thanked him by buying a handful of Shims from his accumulation of used ones.

You need a: P/N - YM - 33296

 

I was having a heck of a time finding a shim tool but one of the techs at the local Yamaha dealer said he doesn't use one anyway. He just loosens the cam chain tensioner and the top cam bearings and lifts the cam up a bit to pull the shims. That's how I ended up doing mine and it worked great. The shims were probably even easier to get out because the valve is closed so the shim it not recessed.

 

Not a bad idea....but you might want to make a few marks to make sure you stay in timing....also...and I really don't know...but there is an automatic tensioner, will it still work with those?

 

Not sure about the auto tensioner, but as far as staying in proper timing that shouldn't be an issue since you just loosen the top bearings about a half an inch. You don't actually remove the cams, just lift them up a bit.

 

Guys, guys, guys---HOLD ON.

aharon has a XJ400 "Diversion"; first cousin to a Seca II. You're talking early airhead shim tool. Quite different.

The shim tool is different; it's similar to the type used on Suzukis. It's a specially contoured, "U" shaped affair that slides in under the cam and wedges the bucket down.

aharon I'll try to get ahold of something that better explains how to use it; I'm pretty sure the technique involves using the bottem edge of the vertical part of the "T" to catch the edge of the bucket and push it down; without obstructing the ability to remove the shim.

Don't go pulling your cams loose.

 

You're saying it works on every other engine, just not the 750? Interesting... now I know why mine had no effect whatsoever.

Just googled that part number, and found a six year old post on the XS11 forums that referred to it as being made by Kent-Moore. Problem is, the company told him it was out of production.

 

Guys, you're talking about a different type of shim tool for a different series motor altogether; let's don't confuse the OP.