First Bike, 81' XJ550 Seca

Hey Everybody!

I've been reading through a lot of the posts, looking at a lot of the amazing work and I'm really excited to get started on this project Bike. I bought it from the guy after he told me he was going to clean it up, he welded the gas tank and he bought it for $500.

So, I bought it for $500CAD, it's orange. Is that a stock color? doesn't seem that way to me, but there is pin striping, and the factory emblem, which was colored by something... blue.

Anyhow, I plan on repainting. The bike seems like it's been sitting since 2001, since that's whats on the registration. So, I guess the plan is to clean the carbs, the gas tank is rusty on the inside, so maybe I could clean and seal it, but is there a supply of new or clean tanks floating around? ebay didn't have much, but I didn't know much when I was looking (model numbers, etc. You guys have educated me beyond belief). Change the brakes, clutch cable needs lubing, there is a new battery in it, maybe some spark plugs. 15K, and the way it's running is still a mystery to me, but I'm not to worried as there was not a drop of oil, no cracks, and he said it started when they bypassed the starter. Need to get a new front rubber too.

There is one thing that was going through my mind was the starting thing. He said that there was one thing missing, under the seat. It looked like a relay was missing. Is this where the starter relay is? I figured the reason somebody would do that is to prevent people from stealing it, especially if it was sitting covered in a garage for 10 years.

Anyhow, this post was probably jumbled and nonsensical, but I can't wait to get started. Pics to be oncoming.

 

That missing piece is a TCI, kinda like a ECU or CDI. TCI I believe stands for transistor controlled ignitor. They go for about $90 used on ebay but chacal can get new ones for a bit more. Be sure to check your valve clearance. Also pull that back tire and check the brake for delamination. Get the manual. Your going to need a YICS tool and a colour tune to get those carbs right after your rebuild. Good Luck and welcome to the site.

 

Also be sure to throw your location and bike info in your signature, just helps people to know what you're running and where so they can help you out better. Sounds like you're canadian though, whereabouts? Congrats on the new ride, you're going to love it!

 

We got folks from everywhere on here LOL

 

Thanks guys!

Transistor Controlled Ignitor, sounds just about right for a bike that has every piece except one missing, and it not starting. Two wires, one green and yellow I think, the other, i don't know. Spade Connectors.

I've been hearing about these YICS tools. Are they still being made? Can I buy them here?

I'm from Edmonton, my buddy is going to give me a lot of help, he's got a 2009(?) Bonneville T100 with Carbs, so he knows a wee bit more than I do, but i'm super mechanical, so this'll be fun and interesting, especially with all the guides from Rick(omatic?).

Do a lot of Yamaha Dealers hold parts for older bikes? My friend pointed me to a site, my bike barn, i think and I found 90% of my parts on there that I might potentially need; however Knowing somebody locally always helps.

So, i'm thinking Black w/ yellow stripes and the laguna seca lap on the tail.

what's all this 4 into 1 exhaust stuff I hear about? is there some benefit that I'm missing from less exhaust pressure?

 

If it only has 2 wires it is not the TCI that is missing. Another thing that sounds weird is that your wires have spade connectors. When I rewired my bike I don't remember any spade connectors. It would really help us if you could take a picture of the wires you are talking about. Under the seat is the fuse block, TCI, a relay attached to the frame crossmember just before the rear fender and a connection for the rectifier.

 

Here's what's supposed to be under the seat:




And with the cover off the fusebox:




In regard to the colors: For North America, the Seca 550 (XJ550R) came in white with red flashes and a bikini fairing for 1981; red with silver and black flashes and a bikini fairing for '82; and black with scarlet and maroon flashes and no fairing for '83.

All three years' 550 Secas are identical except for trim details.

If you look in "FAQ Suggestions" I've done a lot of articles on 550 stuff.

YOU NEED A SERVICE MANUAL. In the meantime, PM me with your email address and I'll send you the cable routing and component location diagrams from the factory book.

 

Yeah, as i was looking through the wiring diagrams i dug up through here and didn't see that the TCI was missing, but I have to go out to my dad's place to look, and this weekend was just getting the bike over there. (I have the Service manual(7 chapters) and electrical map, owners manual and supplimental... is that all? Is there much difference between that and the Haynes? I've rebuilt Engineering copiers from the service manual alone, so is the haynes manual really that important?)

So here is a really good question for you wizards: I want to ride as soon as I can this season, and i don't mind doing ALOT of work to get me up to top speed, almost show quality. What I'm wondering is, what's the least amount of carb work I can do considering that I have to coat/seal the tank, and it has been sitting for 10 approximate years, and started earlier this summer? Do I have to do a full rebuild to clean the carbs out, or can I just hope to jesus that some carb cleaner through the top will be enough for this season, granted I won't be pushing the bike hard in the least, since this is my first motorcycle (had a yamahopper 50cc a while back) and I don't plan any long trips (got some car trips to take ) on the bike.

What do you all think? Should I just rebuild and hope I can get it done before august? or spray and pray?

 

Just rebuild it's easy very few pieces. Just read the "Church of clean" you can find it with a quick search. It'll tell you everything you need to know.

 

"Spray and Pray" won't cut it. The passages in the Mikunis are BEYOND TINY and the only way to get them clean is to tear them down and do it right. Carb cleaner and "snake oil" you dump in the gas won't work on completely clogged passages. The procedure's in the book, supplemental info on this site. Exploded Mikuni: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=31061.html

DO NOT SUBMERGE 'whole' carbs in anything; the throttle shaft seals are trapped in the bodies and unless you want to go "full monte" on them (only maybe necessary) you don't want to trap cleaner in the seals.

Float levels are critical; the 550s seem to be more sensitive to it than the bigger bikes with Hitachis;

and you HAVE to set the valve clearances before attempting to do the final vacuum sync.

In regard to manauls, if you have the factory book, you have a leg up. The Clymer (there is no Haynes for the 550s) is only OK; the factory book is much better but it too leaves things out or makes giant assumptions as to your previous skillset. To counter that, I've done a number of articles to both clarify and explain the stuff that is in the books, or fill some big gaps (like the tach drive oil seals.) Most of them are in "FAQ Suggestions."

Here's one the factory seems to almost deny the existence of: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=31872.html

For parts, look no further than our own XJ4Ever. PM member chacal; or send an email to "info AT XJ4Ever.com" (Insert @ symbol.) Catalog is in "XJ4Ever-Supporting Vendor" forum or click the logo in the site banner, upper right. OBB is spotty and expensive; chacal carries it all, both OEM and aftermarket.

FIRST THING TO DO: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html

Re: Exhaust and carb changes: Get the bike running correctly in 100% stock configuration and THEN decide if you think it needs "improving" performance-wise. I've got two of 'em, and I can tell you that once they're put right, you won't see much need for "improvement." They're genuinely fast, and quite a nice bike to ride.

I get flamed for posting too many pictures of my bikes, so check my gallery for a couple of examples of what can be done with a 550 Seca.

 

Update:

Since I have finally taken possession of the bike, I will be stripping the gas tank first, followed by whatever comes up next. Carbs are the biggest worry, but from what you guys have shown me, along with help from my dad (carb master) and my buddy who owns a triumph with carbs, i should be able to get this done right. Getting that YICS tool should prove fun (unless somebody here has one for sale), but I'm mainly concerned with being able to put gas in without leaks.

Anyways, Is there any quick tips about getting the tank off?

Thanks!
Graham

 

Unscrew the one bolt; lift up slightly and disconnect the fuel and vacuum lines from the petcock, DON'T FORGET TO UNPLUG THE FUEL GAUGE LEAD CONNECTOR and free it from the channel in the rubber isolator (you can see it just 'below' the fusebox in the pics I posted.)

Then pull/wiggle/pull the tank straight rearward until it clears the rubber "pucks" on the side of the frame, and lift carefully off.

Set WAY out of your work area and prop up the back so it's not resting on the petcock.

 

Hey There!

Can't seem to get my seat unlatched. It's been unlatched before, but for some reason i can't figure out how the eff to get it open. I feel super tarded.

Any help would be great... thanks again guys!

 

The "helmet lock" turns both ways. Turn the key CCW, and the helmet lock opens. Turn the key CW, (hold it there) and then reach under the edge of the seat, just to the rear of the top of the shock, and there is a small lever hanging down--push it to the rear to unlatch the seat.

Note: I KNOW here that latch is; I've got enough miles on 550 Secas to where I should be able to find it by "feel" every time. NOT SO... About every third time, I have to LOOK under there and find it again.

 

Fitz - "flamed for posting too many pictures of my bikes"?! You gotta be kidding me! Your pics are always a highlight for me!

 

Dude, I should search out the thread. Flamed BAD for "looking for reasons to post pics of my bikes." Accused of doing it "out of context." I always thought pics were popular too, never had any idea I was upsetting some folks. Apparently, I have been.

So I've toned it down a tad.

 

Oh Geez! I think some people just don't like when others are successful. I am glad you keep posting. Don't let the few nay sayers give you a bad attitude. Like many others on this site, I have benefited immensely from your posts.

 

That's what that bar is! Helmet lock! Ok, that makes more sense now, I was trying to figure out what was going on, what the latch wouldn't release. Ok, now I think i'm started.

 

Excellent, and now I'm off, with the fairing cowl and tail peice off, ignition cover and soon i'm gonna get the rest of the plastics off of here.

Is the easiest way to remove the carbs through dismounting the engine, or should i just go read the guide and it'll tell me again?

 

When I remove the carbs I don't unmount the engine. Loosen the clamps on the intake manifolds and the airbox boots. Loosen the airbox (2 bolts in front and 1 in back that you access from under the seat.) from the frame and slide it back as far as it will go. This will give you enough room to wiggle the carbs out.

 

Beautiful! Thanks zombie!

Now, as for that part that's missing... as I was doing my visual inspection before full tear down (something I hope is essential), I noticed that it wasn't flat spade connectors under the seat, it was the connector (on the bottom center part below the fuse box on fitz' pictures. It looks like it's the bottom part of the pins from the connector, and the rest of the plug and other wires were removed from the equation, or are somewhere else on the bike pulled out/down.

So the question is... what are these connectors supposed to be plugged into, when they're plugged into the connector properly? (which is right below the AHA in fitz's pics)

I also found out that it's a 1982 not a 1981. It was possibly white, but somebody painted it retarded orange. So there is that work that needs to be done, but it's been stripped of all the plastics today. Can't wait to get to the hard parts!

 

I recently bought a '93 XJ600 Seca II. The front end was rebuilt because the previous owner had layed it down, therefore i have no tacometer. (This is my first bike, i'm not very experienced, so any help will be greatly appreciated!) When i ride the bike the throttle works great until i pull back hard on it. When i do this the RPM's soar, but there is little if not any output in the speed. If i stand corrected, i feel like the bike should speed up a lot, but it doesn't and i have to let off the throttle a little.

Any help will be greatly appreciated! (new to the site!)
Thanks!

 

Hey ammoeller!

Congratulations on your purchase of your 93 xj600!

I would suggest starting your own thread so that we don't confuse the troubleshooting steps on my bike for the ones on your bike.

It could be clutch related, if you're breaking free of the clutches weight capacity it would just sit and spin... if my thinking right. Does it do this in every gear?

However, I just got started and am having fun trying to open the flippin' trunk, so I might not be the right person to ask!

 

Verdict on the YICS Eliminator? Seems like it's the only thing I can get nowadays...

Scratch that... Seems i've gotten some email activity. Tool might be the best way!

I read about RickCo's dowel and Tshirt Idea. What's best if I'm really going hard at this thing?

 

The connector you are asking about goes to the fuel tank sending unit. The 82 550 Seca is red on US models. The 81 was white and the 83 was black. I don't know if it is the same on Canadian models.

 

The color schemes were the same for the Canadian bikes.

The manufacture date is on the label on the left side of the steering neck; however that doesn't really tell you the model year. (My '81 was made in 12/80, and my '83 sometime in mid '82.)

Only the 1981 and 1982 bikes came with the bikini fairing; they dropped it for '83. If the forks are black and the front fender is "body color" not chrome, and the bike came with a bikini fairing; it's an '82.

The '81 was the only model year that had a chrome front fender and "natural" lower fork legs.

 

No way Fitzs!!! :evil: I love to see your pics! Some people are just jealous!! :wink:

 

Thanks again Zombie, so no fuel sending unit detected by the tci, no electrical start? I haven't even tried, it's been sitting for a while, figure I'll tune it up before i even bother starting it. I could be horribly wrong though ;P

 

Just so the bomb disposal guys don't start flaming this thread asking what color wire it is: Black and Green. I noticed last night that the fuel tank had a black and green wire. Coincedence?

also, I give utmost and out right access for fitz to post as many pictures as this board will allow in my thread. Suck it Flamers!

 

The TCI unit could care less if the fuel gauge sending unit is connected or not.

Unrelated. But yes, those are the wires for the fuel sending unit.

And since you ASKED, here's my "defairinged" '81:

 

That's a beauty right there! I love the caliper, did you get that from XJ4ever? Also, what's a good polish for the casings?

 

I meant rotor. Doy.

 

Nope; THAT rotor is a stock Yamaha rotor, resurfaced and drilled.

THIS rotor I got from chacal, it's an EBC full-floater:



(Both bikes have stainless steel lines with custom short uppers for the low bars.)


As for polishing the cases, there's a bit more to it than what polish you use. People have different methods they prefer; but the basics are as follows:

-strip the old clear lacquer coating off first; the best thing for this is "Aircraft" paint remover, available at most auto supply or auto paint shops. Also best done with the parts off the bike.

-then using Scotchbrite, or wet sanding, remove all of the old grey "dead" metal and begin the "smoothing out" process.

-THEN you polish. You can use a metal polish such as Solvol, SimiChrome or Mother's and do it by hand; or you can use a buffing wheel with varying grades of polishing compound and then finish off by hand (my method.)

-I use Mothers' Billet Metal Polish for the final polishing and for shine maintenance.

Do a forum search on "polishing aluminum" and read about the various methods used by others.

 

Awesome, that looks amazing. I figured the polishing of aluminum would have a couple other steps, so now it's time to do some digging of my own.

Those are beautiful bikes, well done and the black one is making me jealous of my soon to be black and yellow one.

Also, you have a grip bar, or some storage bar on the back... is that stock for another year?

 

The luggage rack is a GSM "SportRack" which was a "period" accessory from back when the bikes were current.

I got it from a guy via eBay; it didn't sell and I contacted him after the fact and we "haggled." At the time, he had a second one. But when I checked back with him a couple of months later, he'd sold it.

There was a factory optional luggage rack for the Seca 550 as well; but they're rare as hen's teeth. I've only seen pics of them on bikes, haven't seen one on eBay ever in over three years of watching.

We just had a big discussion on aluminum polishing; just do a forum search on "polishing aluminum." My white bike had "lived" outside for four years straight before I got it and all of the aluminum was NASTY grey mottled corroded. It just takes patience and time and the parts come out beautiful as a result. Clear coating afterward isn't necessary if you hit it with Mothers a couple times a season.

 

Fitz... They're just soo pretty they make everyone jealous

GreatScott ... The carbs are not as bad as they sound, as a total noob I got mine clean folowing Ricks guides.... some carb cleaner, patience and a nice afternoon... take your time, and be organized.....
A few beer also helps

 

Greatscott. Keep your eyes peeled on the Yellowhead, Monday around noon. I'm headed for the mountains on a 4,000 km trip. I have done all the maintenance on my bike so don't be afraid to come looking for help.



Kenora, ON. 2010

 

Excellent, Fitz, I'd love to put a luggage rack on, but by the looks of RangerG's decked out travel seca, I probably won't need to! I'm stoked, because in at least a year, that'll be me with luggage and heading out to BC with my buddies Triumph Bonneville T100.

I think i'm going to work on my carb cleaning today. I've got some carb cleaner, gonna do them one by one (no muffin tins and I work better with only one set of parts around )

Gas tank issues: Sandblasted it yesterday, and the bottom of the tank was full of holes. Now, we've welded most of the large holes shut, but i'm thinking that if I put bondo on the holes, then do the tank clean and seal, the bondo won't come in contact with the gas. I've got to definitely get a good tank before I'm fully road worthy, but this should be good enough to get it running this year, hopefully.

So, here's the question: Are tanks easy to come by? Are there other tanks out there that'll fit with little mods; with possibly bigger tanks?

 

Also, RangerG, I live in the downtown, and if you're blowing through Edmonton, I most likely won't be out on the yellowhead. If you want, however, come by for lunch at Cafe Select on 10018 106 st, have sandwich or bowl of Hearty Mac and Cheese, let me pour over your bike with the giddiness of a school girl.

 

The problem with using, say, a 650 Seca tank is that it's about 6" longer; and as a result not only will you need to fab a rear mount, you'd need to modify the seat. You can get an easy 150 miles or more on a tank of gas with the stock tank. (Yamaha claims it's 4.2 Gallons but I think they lied.)

Are tanks easy to come by? As easy as eBay; I believe you'll find a couple up right now:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/81-83-Ya ... ccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1980-Yam ... ccessories

Or post in "Sell, Trade, Swap, Wanted" and see if somebody has one they'll part with.

 

I honestly don't think that there are many places I'll be going that'll need more than 230 km in fuel. The longest I've seen between stations on my Alberta BC runs in my car is 148 km, so even at a steep climb that shouldn't be a problem. I was just figuring if I'm going to have to get a new tank, why not go up if there is an easy way, but fabricating is not my strong suit. at all. lol.

 

I also believe I could be missing fuel tubing. it's a simple 1 in 4 out fuel tube, right?

 

I want to talk paint types & scheme with you guys. I am, for sure doing it in black with yellow striping. I don't want that much chrome, i'd rather go black out. I saw black pipes. I'll get those soon. I want black engine. What's the best way to paint that sucker? Enamel? Ceramic? I saw a black engine on one of the ones for sale in the swap section of this site. I love it.

After that, Can you paint the shiny bits and have it look good? i mean, the trans casing and such. I don't mind the forks being metalic in color, but as much black as I can get would make me happy.

You guys all rock. Lotsly.

 

arbs are now off.... and they're spotless. WTF? the only sticky parts are outside, so i think i'm just going to clean thems, spray a bit of cleaner through them and get testing. Once I get a front tire, i'm going to see what needs to be done w/ the brakes, bearings and clutch cables, chain and sprockets.

then it's paint and finishing the tank (just got me a repair kit for my bday - YAY!)

I think i'm going to post some photos tonight for your viewing pleasure.

You guys have been awesome!

 

You need to break those carbs down further and check all the tiny passages in the enrichment tubes, emulsion tubes, etc., then clean the float needles and seats. After reassembly you'll need to set your float heights using fuel and clear tubing, and bench sync before they go back on the bike.

Mikuni Exploded view: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=31061.html

Don't rush through the job by making assumptions; or you'll just be pulling them back off to do it again, only right.

 

I am totally with you fitz, however I was looking through all of the pictures of dirty and clean carbs, and mine are on the precise side of clean.

I believe this bike had been carb cleaned recently, and it also only has 30,000km on it. Now, if i'm right, there is no harm in cleaning the outside up, making sure the choke and throttle are nice and fluid; and then starting the bike to see if it's running right. The old addage of 'If it ain't broke, don't fix it' rings through my head frantically when i think about taking these things apart and reassembling. So, then, if I don't clean it thoroughly, the worst that'll happen is a rough idle and weird reactions. Then, will I disassemble. I don't even have my cycle license yet, so time is not really a factor; but I do want to do it right. If that involves putting the carbs back on and realizing i need to fully break it down, that's alright. It was 45 minutes work, when I didn't know how to take it off. Now i know how, and it'll be even faster.

I'm hoping you don't see this as an affront to your knowledge on the subject. I really do appreciate the help. A lot.

 

It's not an affront to my knowledge; but since they're already off, I'd check the basics anyway.

Verify the float levels using fuel and clear tubing; and bench sync them. Gotta do that before they go back on, anyway.

Get the valves in spec before you try to do a vacuum sync.

And see what happens. If the bike turns out to be cold-blooded; or won't run without some "choke" (enrighment circuit) all the time; then you'll know what you need to do. Ya gotta understand, I've been through all of this, including trying to "skip over" stuff, and learned from raw experience that it's not worth it.

You learn however you want.

 

I am definitely going to check through them, that's for sure, i'm not just going to say 'that's it, i'm done, back on' after i clean the outside. I just have to wait for the tool to show up that I just ordered from XJ4ever. Gotta love that canadian dollar right now

I will, definitely follow that advice. What do you suggest for clear tubing?

 

1/4" ID clear vinyl from a farm supply store is what I use; chacal also offers a neat hunk of hose with metric graduations printed on one end, making the job easier yet. You need to scrounge or fab up some sort of little fitting to jam into the carb and attach the hose to; I whittled down a little plastic coupling I had laying around (from my Mity-Vac or from the auto parts, I forget.)

And while you're poking about; I don't know if I mentioned it before but check THIS thing: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=31872.html and make sure it has a filter in it still. It's an INLET, you don't want to be running it open.

 

Right! i think i should be able to find that kinda toobing, lol.

I did read about the inlet filter, but promptly forgot about it. I'll check it soon!

In Tank News! I now have sealant and cleaner and it's awesome POR15. Once I get that all sorted out, i'll fill the dents in or pull them out... tiny little dents. Not sure, yet. Any ideas?

I've been seeing a Orange Maxim parked near where I live, probably doing construction work, or easy parking. Neat.