RPMs rise, no power

I recently pulled the carbs from my bike, cleaned em up, bench sync, and passed a clunk test. The problem I have is there's a lot of hesitation in the throttle. I can fully open the throttle and it seems to take a bit of time for the rpms to climb. I was having the same problem before pulling the carbs and thought that would solve the problem...Turns out when I came back from my little test ride (which the bike FAILED miserably lol), I pulled cylinder #1 plug, and I pulled the boot right off the wire! I jammed the wire back in the boot, started it up, pulled the plug, and no difference in power/sound. Could this be the cause of my lack of power??? Or am I missing something else in the carburetors?

 

If the RPMs rise with no increase in power, the clutch is slipping.

 

I do get some increase in power...I just can't get enough power to go fast enough and get out of second gear. Another thing that happens that I see a lot on here is, when the bike is idling, if I blip the throttle to about 2500, the rpms drop back down to idle, if I blip it to about 4500 or more, RPMs stay there, and I get a good bit of exhaust pops. I'd really like to get this bike fixed, considering it is my first, but if not I'm afraid it may go back to Craigslist....(<----really hope not though)

 

You're probably not running on all the cylinders if you didn't get a drop by pulling the plug. You can't get it synched properly with it not firing on all cylinders.

 

You should Meter your Spark Plug Wires and Caps.

The sharp, self-tapping, screw that engages the Spark Plug Wires Center Core, ... cuts into the Core.

Pulling the Plug Cap off the change Plugs,, sometimes "Damages" the connection.
Tightening the Cap onto the Plug Wire, ... sometimes "Chops" the Core and vastly reduces the integrity of the connection.
Pulling the Wire out of the Plug Cap often CUTS the Core Wires and can ruin the end of the Spark Plug Wire.

You can make the Connection solid, again, ... by:
1.) Trimming-back the Spark Plug Wire.
>>> There is a limited amount of extra length to Trim-back.
2.) Perform "Coil Surgery" and Install NEW Wires to the Coil.
>>> Works great. But, the Coils ain't gettin' any younger!
3.) New Coils & Wires.
>>> Performance Upgrade. Ignition System Improvement.

 

Is there any modifications done to the intake or exhaust? Got pod filters and 4 to 1 header or open exhaust? Jetting could be a problem if you do. You did not mention anything about float levels being checked.

 

Is there a good tutorial on checking resistance on the coils?

 

Gomerkyle Have you checked the valves yet

 

Guys-- let's approach this logically instead of skipping all over the map.

-"Cleaned 'em up and pass the clunk test." Clunking is all fine and dandy but there's a lot more to it; carbs need to be thoroughly cleaned, the o-rings on the idle mixture screws replaced at very minimum, and the float levels set using fuel and clear tubing.

So if you didn't completely and thoroughly service the carbs and properly set the floats, that needs to be done.

-Once bench synced and back on the bike, you need to do a running vacuum sync. The valve clearances need to be in spec first.

So if you haven't checked/adjusted the valve clearances, attend to that before trying to sync the carbs the rest of the way.

Of course all of this requires that the bike at least RUN. So start by unscrewing all the plug caps off the wires, lopping 3/8" or so off the wire and screwing them back on. While you're at it, make sure the resistor core inside the cap (look in the hole where the spark plug goes) isn't loose. They do come loose on occasion and for no apparent reason.

 

Well I found out today that the ignition coil for cylinder 1 & 4 went kaput. As a result, neither cylinder was firing which I think is the reason why I was able to get the bike moving, and into 2nd gear, but no further. I was looking into purchasing a used ignition coil on eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... ink:top:en
Specs seem to be in order for that one (correct me if I'm wrong!). One thing I noticed about it though is, the plug boots are a different type than what are on my bike now. The ones on my bike now are a little bigger. The ones in the eBay ad seems like it would "hug" the plug, kind of like how a spark plug socket works. That's what it seems like to me anyway, ideas anyone??

 

Take the spark plug "boots" (resistor plug caps) off your old coil and use them on the new one. They unscrew (See Ricks and my posts above.)