NOT STARTING...PLEASE ADVISE!

I got my starting motor rebuilt recently. She spins like a champ, but it doesn't sound like the flywheel is engaging. I can push start the bike with a little help and it will run, but my starting system is not turning over the engine just making a spin noise at the starting motor.
Other notes:
-bike was ridden every day for two months up until two weeks ago.
-my current oil has 1100 miles but it got very cloudy apparently while she sat, and will be changed when she's running again.
-my voltage on the bike while it's running is 14.45v which sounds like it's healthy.
-voltage with bike off is 12.5 and I tested to cold crank 4 days ago to verify it's also good to go.
Is this indicative of a starter clutch problem? does the flywheel move to engage? When I replace the starting motor it almost feels like you have to get the teeth with it and the flywheel to line up proper before it will sit in there correctly, that can't be true though if my starting motor is free spinning right?
anyway, that's my progress to bringing her back to life. I miss riding.

 

You're thinking "car."

THERE IS NO "TOOTHED" FLYWHEEL. The starter has no "Bendix" and doesn't move a gear into engagement with a flywheel.

The starter uses a "sprag" clutch to engage the jackshaft and turn the engine over; if it's not engaging you have a starter clutch issue.

Let's start with what kind of oil is in the bike. Synthetics, especailly automobile oil, can cause the problem you're describing.

You too-- Start a new thread; don't hijack a 3-year old resurrected one, it's too confusing to keep track of who's who and what's what.

 

Hi all.

Ok, here's my issue. Got a '82 xj1100 maxim and for some reason cylinder 2 aint firing. got spark and compression, and I think I narrowed it down to a fuel flow issue. any suggestions?

 

C'MON now--

Please.

 

Having same issue, but all ive done is replaced battery and plugs.
Once new battery in all I got was lights. Hit start and nothing but dimed lights.

Shall I try all this great advice as well or could my issue be completely different?

 

Xjproblem sounds like a solenoid issue. Had the same problem rebuilt the solenoid and it was fixed. But like big Fitz said this should all be new topics.

 

Hello everyone, this thread seems like a good place for me to start

I've just purchased an 81 XJ650H. I appear to be the 3rd owner. The previous owner bought it as a project but didn't have time for it or any mechanical skill/confidence, so I took it off his hands for $250.

Bike will turn over, but won't start.

Things I have done:
a) Replaced battery, brand new.
b) Checked fuses, all good.
c) Cleaned and properly gapped spark plugs. These things were WAY off. (Still may need to be replaced as they were/are black and sooty.)
d) Checked/cleaned air filter.
e) Checked cylinder compression: C1: 145psi, C2: 140psi, C3: 140psi, C4: 140psi. All with cold engine, elevation 2300ft.

Bike will start with starter fluid, but will not stay running more than a second or two. She does sound nice when she purrs though

I have now taken off the tank and checked the petcock for fuel flow. The fuel will flow out in the PRI position only (because the bike is off). No issue with inline filter.

I am thinking it is a carb issue as the black/sooty plugs indicate too rich a mixture? Also the previous owner got it started a year ago and he said he rode it around his block and the exhaust was black.

Am I headed in the right direction? Any ideas or thoughts?

Thanks in advance!

 

Try new plugs.Once they're fouled, they are shot. Get a new air filter. Even if it appears to be clean, it may still be clogged. Check the choke cable is actuating the plungers on the carbs all the way down. Check the mixture screws. If the factory anti-tamper plugs have been removed, somebody might have got in there & played around. You're probably gonna have to thru the carbs tho, & give em a cleaning and check float levels & such. Luckily, you're at the right place for info on this. Good luck.

 

Yeah rebuild those carbs , get your valves in spec, vac sync and Color tune. That'll probably be what she needs. Also pull off that. Rear wheel and check for brake quality. These rear shoes like to fall apart easily and will lock up the rear wheel and make for a bad day.

 

If it only runs on starting fluid, you have some carb work to do.

But you will need the valves in spec to adjust the carbs once they've been serviced.

Get a manual, you're going to need it.

 

Thanks guys, I was thinking it was the carbs. These look fun. 8O

The previous owner threw in a Haynes for the bike, so along with the forum I am hoping to be in good shape. This place is great!

 

I have been reading Church Of Clean, and I am now feeling more confident.

I have a question, though. How in depth do you all go with REBUILDING these things, specifically what are the standard items to replace? I realize that there is not going to be a standard answer and anything that needs replaced should be replaced, but looking over parts I realize that getting replacement parts for all the carb components x4 could cost a pretty penny. (Vacuum Diaphram and Piston Assembly anyone?)

Are kits like this http://www.oldbikebarn.com/Yamaha-XJ650 ... a-Carb-Kit a good starting point, or should I be prepared for more?

 

By the way, sorry if my question sounds a little amateur hour. I am brand new to the bike world, but this is where my heart has always been and I want to do the job right, and well, and be proud of my work.

 

This guy makes great videos on motorcycle work. It's not specific to your bike (you can find that somewhere else on youtube), but he's very thorough in all aspects of a motorcycle. Here is the link to his carb page.

http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL ... ature=plcp

PS: usually you can get away with just a rebuild kit off of ebay unless any of your "housing" is damaged.

 

Well, just did a little recon work to see what I am working with before I start rebuilding/cleaning. Diaphragm piston #1 would not move up and down smoothly, so it is definitely going to need a good cleaning. The float bowls are very dirty too. Diaphragms look like they are in good shape, no tears or cracks. Nice, pliable, and rubber-esque. Diaphragm head cap on #3 is missing a screw, does Chacal sell those?

 

Dirty Carb Bowl #3:

 

It's not the grit in the float bowls that you have to worry about (though don't leav it there !) - it's the blocked jets, air/fuel ways and emulsion tubes. Follow the on-site instructions and have proper carb cleaner and an air line available. Access to an ultra sound cleaner would be good, if unlikely. Do it right and then do it again before reassembling.

I recently thought I'd done a good job on some 550 carbs (slightly different) but had screwed something up. Replacing the carbs with another clean set has transformed it.

 

The emulsion tubes, diaphragm pistons, cylinders, and needles were all covered in a very thick, sticky, lime green goop. What is this crud? No wonder my bike wouldn't start!

Before:



After:

 

Looks like oxide from being in contact with bad gas (water in gas) and collected on the tubes. Pour the gas in a mason jar and let it sit uninterrupted and I'd bet you see water when it settles and separates.

 

Oh, the gas that was in the tank is long gone. The bike was bone dry when I bought her. I'm definitely going to clean out the tank before I start her up after cleaning the carbs. Preferred methods anyone?