First Bike, 81' XJ550 Seca

I honestly don't think that there are many places I'll be going that'll need more than 230 km in fuel. The longest I've seen between stations on my Alberta BC runs in my car is 148 km, so even at a steep climb that shouldn't be a problem. I was just figuring if I'm going to have to get a new tank, why not go up if there is an easy way, but fabricating is not my strong suit. at all. lol.

 

I also believe I could be missing fuel tubing. it's a simple 1 in 4 out fuel tube, right?

 

I want to talk paint types & scheme with you guys. I am, for sure doing it in black with yellow striping. I don't want that much chrome, i'd rather go black out. I saw black pipes. I'll get those soon. I want black engine. What's the best way to paint that sucker? Enamel? Ceramic? I saw a black engine on one of the ones for sale in the swap section of this site. I love it.

After that, Can you paint the shiny bits and have it look good? i mean, the trans casing and such. I don't mind the forks being metalic in color, but as much black as I can get would make me happy.

You guys all rock. Lotsly.

 

arbs are now off.... and they're spotless. WTF? the only sticky parts are outside, so i think i'm just going to clean thems, spray a bit of cleaner through them and get testing. Once I get a front tire, i'm going to see what needs to be done w/ the brakes, bearings and clutch cables, chain and sprockets.

then it's paint and finishing the tank (just got me a repair kit for my bday - YAY!)

I think i'm going to post some photos tonight for your viewing pleasure.

You guys have been awesome!

 

You need to break those carbs down further and check all the tiny passages in the enrichment tubes, emulsion tubes, etc., then clean the float needles and seats. After reassembly you'll need to set your float heights using fuel and clear tubing, and bench sync before they go back on the bike.

Mikuni Exploded view: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=31061.html

Don't rush through the job by making assumptions; or you'll just be pulling them back off to do it again, only right.

 

I am totally with you fitz, however I was looking through all of the pictures of dirty and clean carbs, and mine are on the precise side of clean.

I believe this bike had been carb cleaned recently, and it also only has 30,000km on it. Now, if i'm right, there is no harm in cleaning the outside up, making sure the choke and throttle are nice and fluid; and then starting the bike to see if it's running right. The old addage of 'If it ain't broke, don't fix it' rings through my head frantically when i think about taking these things apart and reassembling. So, then, if I don't clean it thoroughly, the worst that'll happen is a rough idle and weird reactions. Then, will I disassemble. I don't even have my cycle license yet, so time is not really a factor; but I do want to do it right. If that involves putting the carbs back on and realizing i need to fully break it down, that's alright. It was 45 minutes work, when I didn't know how to take it off. Now i know how, and it'll be even faster.

I'm hoping you don't see this as an affront to your knowledge on the subject. I really do appreciate the help. A lot.

 

It's not an affront to my knowledge; but since they're already off, I'd check the basics anyway.

Verify the float levels using fuel and clear tubing; and bench sync them. Gotta do that before they go back on, anyway.

Get the valves in spec before you try to do a vacuum sync.

And see what happens. If the bike turns out to be cold-blooded; or won't run without some "choke" (enrighment circuit) all the time; then you'll know what you need to do. Ya gotta understand, I've been through all of this, including trying to "skip over" stuff, and learned from raw experience that it's not worth it.

You learn however you want.

 

I am definitely going to check through them, that's for sure, i'm not just going to say 'that's it, i'm done, back on' after i clean the outside. I just have to wait for the tool to show up that I just ordered from XJ4ever. Gotta love that canadian dollar right now

I will, definitely follow that advice. What do you suggest for clear tubing?

 

1/4" ID clear vinyl from a farm supply store is what I use; chacal also offers a neat hunk of hose with metric graduations printed on one end, making the job easier yet. You need to scrounge or fab up some sort of little fitting to jam into the carb and attach the hose to; I whittled down a little plastic coupling I had laying around (from my Mity-Vac or from the auto parts, I forget.)

And while you're poking about; I don't know if I mentioned it before but check THIS thing: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=31872.html and make sure it has a filter in it still. It's an INLET, you don't want to be running it open.

 

Right! i think i should be able to find that kinda toobing, lol.

I did read about the inlet filter, but promptly forgot about it. I'll check it soon!

In Tank News! I now have sealant and cleaner and it's awesome POR15. Once I get that all sorted out, i'll fill the dents in or pull them out... tiny little dents. Not sure, yet. Any ideas?

I've been seeing a Orange Maxim parked near where I live, probably doing construction work, or easy parking. Neat.

 

I would recommend doing the dent repair before cleaning and sealing the inside of the tank. You never know what pulling dents out of the tank will do to the seams. You may end up finding new leaks in your newly sealed tank.

 

The seam dents, i'm not even going to touch. Those I can get over, especially on this old tank. Maybe when I get a newer one, or one with less problems, i'll worry about anything else, but should I fill in or pull out the top dents?