start button kill switch question

With the key on I only have full battery voltage to one R/W wire and the other R/W wire is at .035 and the the B/W wire has .035 volts which is the start button wire. Even the black ground has .035 volts. I think the B/W is supposed to have full battery voltage going to it can anyone tell me what they think is going on here and what to look at because I have no idea what is going on. Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated thank you

 

If you still have a STOCK Fuse Panel, ... I'd begin there.

 

I have replaced it with a blade style fuse box and have full power threw all the fuses ?

 

Are you testing this at the harness or in the switch?

I'm pretty sure only one of the r/w wires should have voltage. The kill switch just carries the voltage through to the other r/w wire to the coils.

What exactly is the problem? Start button/kill switch not working? Blowing fuses?

 

The start button is not work neither is the kill switch I have checked the solenoid and it is functioning properly and the button is working but the B/W wire doesn't have full battery voltage only .035 volts with the key on it should have gull batter voltage. So I'm lost on what to do or what to look at. Thank you

 

I have decided the solenoid is ok. The switch has two R/W wires one has full battery voltage the other .035 volts and the L/W wire the one to the start button has also .035 volts to it which should be full battery voltage? With the start button pushed in it only goes up to .065 so the button is making contact and doing something.. The black ground wire in the switch even has .035 volts to it which should be -.000 right? This is all with the key on I should have more than just one hot wire in the switch the L/w should be hot right. Do I maybe have a bad coil also when I jump the solenoid and crank the engine with the key in and in run position I'm not getting any spark at the spark plug to actually turn the engine over???? Hope I'm not confusing I apologize if I am just not very good at this stuff. Thanks for everything>>

 

Once again; the bike will not TURN OVER if it thinks it's in gear, unless the clutch is pulled in. (Assuming sidestand is up, and that switch/relay is confirmed to be functioning correctly or unplugged.)

Have you verified the function and connectivity of the NEUTRAL SWITCH?

Is the neutral light ON when the key is on and the bike is in neutral?

 

I have removed the side stand relay and start cutoff neutral relay to bypass them. The bike does the same with them in or out nothing, thats why I think I'm not getting power to something like the start button??

 

What exactly is the "genesis" of this problem? Was the bike running fine, and then one day all of a sudden it won't turn over? Or have you been rewiring, "modding" or trying to reassemble a disassembled bike, and encountered the issue? Or ???

AND

IS the "neutral" light on when the key is on?

 

This bike ran ok before disasembling. The reason I started to take the bike apart was the tach stopped working so I wanted to replace the wiring harness because I thought it was a good idea. But when I received another used wiring harness the one on the bike was in better shape so I left it on the bike and reassembled everything because I had everything taken apart and unplugged. I then replaced the fuse box with a blade style fuse box and everything went well with that full power threw all the fuses. When I went to start the bike I turned the key on and the brake light worked as well as the turn signals but did absolutely nothing when I hit the start button so I've been chasing that problem ever since. No the neutral light does not come on but it did not come on before when the bike ran.

 

Pull the Headlight.
With the IGN SW -- ON
Test.
Red Wire & Brown Wire that the IGN SW Plugs into.
+12V

The Brown Wire runs to the Fuse Panel
Test
Harness Side Panel
Brown Wire = +12V at Harness Side of Fuse Panel
Fuse
Red Wire with White Tracer that Brown Wire feeds.
+12V (Switched)

If you have current this far, ... the problem is in the Handlebar control.

 

And then check the neutral switch. I'll bet this is all because the bike "thinks" it's in gear.

 

There's connectors under the tank that connect the back half of the bike with the front. I had my start button stop working this week, cause that connection was dirty. It was the one that goes to the relay on left side of the frame, right under the tank.

 

If your moved the saftey switches, did put a jumper to the wiire bullets so the switch is actually bypassed? If all you did was pull the wires, then the bike thinks the switches are open. You have to close the circuits.

the way I made a jumper was simple.... just to two bullet connectors, put each on at opposite ends of a two inch wire, and connected then leadwires together. Easy to do, easy to forget to dol.

Dave

 

Now here's the dumb question......did you double-check to make sure that you didn't forget to plug in the right controls connector inside the headlight bucket?

Dave