This may seem like a stupid question but..

On Friday the weather looks good so I am going to check my valve clearances and I am sure shims will need to be ordered and replaced. So, my question is if these shims are the ones installed at the factory and after 29 years of use/abuse should I actually expect the size to still be stamped on them? Or should I bite the bullet and invest in a set of metric micrometer?

 

The size is color-etched into the bottom surface and doesn't wear off.
I bought a micrometer from HF for $10 - nice to double-check!!

 

A micrometer makes it easier .. and you are sure of what you have in there, many of mine have no visible marks left at all.

 

I found a digital one on amazon for 10.00 this morning got it just in case. Free second day shipping cuz' I am a prime member. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002J ... os_product

 

Order up one of these to help make the job really easy: http://www.tooltopia.com/kd-tools-2274. ... =nextag_r1

You'll put a lot of "miles" on the digital caliper.

 

Yep Bigfitz, I got one of those as you suggested in the how to for valve shim replacement. I'll have my laptop close by to read and look at your pics on how to do this checking and then the replacing.

 

There's some additional info in "Part Deux" that helps with the use of the bucket-holding tool, as well as explains the alternative methods: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29209.html

Relax, be patient, take notes; be sure the "operating arena" is well lit.

One tip I should add to the article, especially for those new to the process: Stuff a rag in the camchain gallery (be careful it doesn't get caught up in the chain and sprockets) to prevent an errant shim from falling into the bowels of the motor.

 

What I hope to get done Friday check valve clearances, determine what shims are in the bike and what ones will be needed. Place order with Len for new shims. Replace fuel filter, just feel like I should I have no idea how old it is and might as well do it since I'll have the tank off anyway. Pull the petcock and inspect the screens I think they might have some gunk on them. Also while the tank is off I am going to clean the block it is filthy for running with a leaky valve gasket. (I replaced that and the crispy donuts two weeks ago) . If there is time I want to pull the side cover and clean my oil sight glass I can't see much of anything through it. I really wish these bikes had dip sticks.

 

Put the bike on the sidestand and you won't lose any oil when you pull the clutch cover. (OK, maybe a dribble.)

You'll destroy the clutch cover gasket removing it; have a new one on hand.

Be careful cleaning the head, you don't want to lose the little rubber blocks that are randomly jammed between some of the fins.

 

OK I'll order a new clutch cover gasket from Len! Thanks for the heads up...

 

You may find yourself in a situation like mine where some of the shims were installed upside down and were incredibly hard to read. One of them was impossible, but luckily when I swapped shims to re-measure it ended up being the same size as the one I had swapped it with so I figured out the right size without a micrometer. Definitely going to buy one though, it's worth the investment. Sooner or later you'll need one for something.

 

I made a few notes in my laptop for the shims I had pulled in the past with the sizes
recorded. I don't have them all yet, but at least some of them I wont have to pull in the future because I can just check my laptop.

 

I plan to do a spread sheet to keep track of what is in and what size replace it.. So I have a running history of shims and clearances...

 

I also had to get it through my thick head to turn the little notch to the front BEFORE installing the tool. It's great when you get the tool right and the valve stays down only find out you did not move the notch around and you cant get to it. yeah thats great, so turn the notch to the front first like I did not twice in a row. hemostats work pretty good to pick up the shim also some tweezers with the tips bent at about 20 degrees or so. it's pretty easy. I read bigfitz's how to all the way through first and got it in my head.
just dont forget the to turn the notch ( ok so I forgot to all 4 times so what)
notch--turn it

 

Skw1972 when you say front do you mean the actual front of the motor (closer to the front wheel) or to the back closer to the carbs.

 

toward the carbs. opposite side of where you put the shim tool. if you turn it BEFORE you roll the cam lobe over ( while the lobe is pointing up like you are checking clearences) it moves around pretty easy. THEN roll the the engine over (cam lobe down). once the tool is holding the valve down (in its open position) the notch is right there and you can pop it up. Do like Fitz said and put a CLEAN old T shirt or something in the cam chain gallery so you dont accidently drop something down the guts. Follow Fitz's how to and it's really a breeze. My #3 exhuast was a pain in the... to get the tool to catch so dont get mad with it. Once you get the "feel" of the tool you'll be an instsant pro.

 

I just did mine a few weeks ago with a new tool, and I could see what the tool was suppose to do, but the bolt hole would not line up once the tool was installed. I had to take a small rat tale file and enlarge the holes slightly (like it was originally mis-drilled) then it worked like a charm.