My seca at high rpm seems to slip

I finally got the bike running perfect and when i pin the throttle and the turbo kicks in i lurch forward then the gears start to slip is there a ez way to fix this and dose any one know what the problem is?

 

The gears aren't slipping, the clutch is. Replace the clutch springs and maybe the plates. It would be worth checking the adjustment in the clutch cable first though. good luck : )

 

ya i kinda figured it might be the clutch haw hard is it to find new plates and is it ez to check if mine are bad

 

sorry (how)

 

Check and see if Barnett still makes an HP clutch kit for it. I have the Barnett in my Seca 550 and it is great. Obviously not near the punch you have with the turbo...but I'll bet it'd cure your problem.

 

Check and see how tight the cable is. Grab-hold off the Clutch Throw-Out Arm on the side case ... and see it there's any free play in it.

If there is ... and the Clutch is slipping when you give it the gas ... you need to do a Clutch Job.

If there isn't any freeplay in it ... adjust the Knurl Adjuster at the end of the Cable up at the Clutch Perch to give the cable a little slack.

If you slack-off on the cable and it still slips ... order yourself a nice new Clutch with the strong springs in the hardware kit.

 

Rick is it really good unless there is play? I would think that it would start slipping when your hard on it before then. I haven't taken mine apart for anything but I'd imagine there is only one cover and a few screws to take it out and use a caliper on the discs. Plus then he can check for it not engaging evenly and whatnot. (if everythings in adjustment)

 

No, no.
I was having him check for an over-tight clutch.

Aside from maybe needing to fab-up a gasket ... it's easy putting a clutch in an XJ-Bike.

There's nothing in the way! You take the cover off and it's right there for an easy "Shake-n-bake".

Why bother measuring anything.
Slap a brand new set of Clutches in there.
There's something about having the new clutches that will put a smile on your face ... every time the traffic light turns green!

Or ... every time you damn-near break your wrist saying goodbye to the dude busting your chops on his ... non-turbo!

 

lmao

 

make sure you use oil that do NOT have any friction modifiers in it. I used normal automotive oil in mine and it would slip like crazy. Now I have replaced the clutch plates and also put in Shell Rotella. Havent had a slip yet. But I also do not have much duration of boost before it starts starving for fuel.
Sean

 

It's good that you are having success with Shell Rotella Synthetic.

Personally, I would NOT recommend Rotella (or any other synthetic) be used by XJ-Owners.

The Rotella Synthetic is more suited to HEAVY Machinery and Diesel Engines, as stated in its recommendations publication.

The inline-4 cylinder, DOHC, wet-clutched, XJ-Series Engine requires racing oil.

I use Castrol 20/50.

Rotella information:
http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?sit ... synth.html

 

I never said I was using the synthetic. I am using Shell ROTELLA® T Multigrade and so far havent had a problem.. knocks on wood

 

Roger

 

Turbos are the first of any XJ's to exhibit worn clutch plates due to the enormous midrange punch as the turbo spools up. Mine did the same thing, it would hit boost, the revs would rise to 8000 rpm with no increase in forward momentum for 2 seconds or so, then the whole thing caught up. One set of EBC friction plates and EBC heavy duty clutch springs later and the slip is gone. Do it before you cook your steel plates, a couple of mine were beginning to blue.

 

OK turned out it was the clutch plates but bad news i put new ones in and tightened the bolts with the springs behind them. i tightened one to much i guess because when i started riding the top of one on of the bolts came of and tore the hole thing to shreds locked up my back tire and stalled my motor not a good day for me!!!
but luckily just the hub was damaged so i will purchase a new one and start again. hay thanks everyone for the help though.

 

You MUST use a good torque wrench on the clutch bolts, Inch pounds. Will come in handy for other work so is worth the $$.

You can damage the clutch housing or snap a bolt off very easily. The amount of force to damage them is not much.

 

I add Thread Lock to those fasteners; too.

Sorry that happened to you. What's needed to set it right?

 

Just what is shown in the picture not the brand new plates thankfully it will be OK within a month or so still good for summer. How can you learn or have other people learn if you don't make a mistake or two along the way.

 

How do you think I found out how easy it is to break a clutch bolt? :cry:
Thankfully I broke the bolt as after that I found out it is more normal to break (as in snap off) the part of the clutch basket they tighten into. 8O Managed to get the bolt out too.

Clutch retaining bolts are only 7.2 ft lb or 86 in lb, not much at all.

Good luck with your repairs!

 

thanks