Need Iridium Spark-Plugs to fit on my 1985 XJ700

Does anyone know what Iridium Spark plug I can use on my 1985 XJ700? I replaced the stock ignition coils with 3 Ohms Dyna DC1 Coils...and I need some Iridium plugs that'll fit my bike. I bought some "NGK Iridium IX DPREIX-9" plugs off Ebay but the threads aren't wide enough...they're only 10-11mm wide...mine are much wider...does anyone know?

 

http://www.sparkplugssource.com/shop/ca ... x?catid=26

Why is it you think you need Iridium Plugs?

 

Because i was told that the 3 Ohms Dyna DC1 coils would destroy the regular ones...everyone who has made the Dyna coil conversion uses Iridium spark plugs...i'm just trying to find out which ones will fit my bike

 

Nb........is your bike the air-cooled or water-cooled version of the XJ700? They use different plugs. We do have both types in stock, but, as Rick notes, they are not a requirement for use with aftermarket coils......

 

the liquid-cooled Maxim's are "Maxim-X" and air-cooled are "regular XJ's"...mine is the "1985 XJ700N"...the "N" is not really necessary because it means "1985" while "S" means "1986"...i believe the Maxim-X's use plugs with smaller-diameter threads than regular XJ's (1985-86 anyway...)...the stock coils were 2.7 Ohms and can't handle Iridium plugs...i'm not entirely sure if the plugs i ordered are even the ones i need...the part # seemed similar enough to possibly be compatible...but if you know exactly what plugs i need i'd be most grateful if you sent me those when you receive the plugs you sent me which i'll ship back to you..the standard plugs they list in the handbook are "BP8 ES (NGK)" or "W24EP-U (NIPPONDENSO)"...that's all i have to go on.

 

Yes, the air-cooled engines do use a larger diameter plug thread than the water-cooled engines (12mm vs. 14mm for the air-cooled). The sotck or the aftermarket coils can "handle" either stock (non-resistive) or resistive plugs (Iridium), although you may have to change plug caps to get the total secondary system resistance back to "stock" levels........but, it doesn't matter that much, as secondary resistance merely affects the spark "dwell time" and does not allow the TCI unit to be over-driven, which is a potential danger spot if using coils that do not come close to the original coil's PRIMARY circuit resistance ratings (on the lower side of the resistance ratings):

A very good review of the issue of electrical resistance in ignition systems can be found at:

http://www.ultralightnews.com/enginetro ... dplugs.htm

Although the above article references the ignition systems in ultra-light aircraft, the same concepts apply to all ignition systems.

 

that's quite a mouth-full and informative...thanks, i appreciate the effort...but as to "my" bike, here are the specs..."Pickup Coil" Resistance: 120 ohms plus or minus 10% @ 20 degrees celcius..."Ignition Coil" Primary Winding Resistance: 2.7 ohms plus or minus 10% @ 20 degrees celcius...Secondary Winding Resistance: 12 K(ohms) plus or minus 20% 2 20 degrees celcius...Cap Resistance: 10 K(ohms) plus or minus 15%

i kind of forgot who i was talking to in my last statement...for some reason i thought i was speaking to the Ebay seller i bought the Iridium plugs from that don't fit...long work-week and i'm tired

anyway, if you have 14mm Iridium plugs which will work on my bike, that's what i want, and i can adjust the resistance with the plug-wires and plug-caps...i need 4 plugs...what's your price shipping included? my address is: 97 Leeside Dr, Moncton, New Brunswick, Canada, E1C 4L4

 

I use Iridium plugs in every combustion engine I own and I don't regret it. Leaf blower, snow blower, tiller, weed wacker, Toyota 4runner, Ford Focus, Mazda B2000, XJ650, XV500, CB750. Then again what do I know? I run pods on my bike and you know where that'll get you...

Take your stock plug to AutoZone and they will tell/sell you the Iridium version you need/want.

 

thanks...finally a direct answer...i'm running pods too...the bike was completely butchered frm its former uncool state and now is a cool looking bobber...again thanks

 

They'll come-along with a some new Fancy-Schmancy Ultra-Plug and have images of Lasers severing through Safes to tout the energy they deliver.

They'll market them in Glass Tubes you have to break to insure their freshness.

Only $17.99 ea. with adapters to fit everything.

They'll be so much better than Iridium you'll want to run them in everything and rig the BBQ to light using one of 'em too.

 

spark plugs are sooo misunderstood by SOooo many people.


As long as people keep buying snake oil, there will be people selling snake oil.

 

Rick, the plugs you just described are already here! They are called Brisk racing plugs and they do, in fact, cost $17.99 ea plus shipping for my Beemer. Not so sure about the glass tubes, lasers and adapters though.

$80 for a set of plugs? Are you out of your mind?????

One of the guys on my other forum swears by them. He is a Finn though........

http://www.briskusa.com/tradition.htm

Loren

 

And you'll preach to everyone how they cant be tuned to run in anything and anyone using anything other the manufacturers stock equipment is a fool. Besides, if they were any better, the manufacturer would have factory equipped your machine with them right?

 

dudes!...what's with all the hating?...find something to do! i regret signing up on this forum already.

 

Me too.

 

Kevin, I understand where you are going with your comments regarding some of the comments that have been made. Don't let a few comments sour you on the forum. There are a lot of folks here who genuinely want to help and who don't have to fuel their egos at another persons expense.

Loren

 

The thing is when you hear the same arguements and comments over and over, and these sorts of topics have been covered ad nauseum and people still fall for the snake oil salesmen, its difficult not to just throw up your hands and make a joke about it.

Anyone who takes the time to do the research and to read the studies from independant sources (meaning not the ads by the manufactures themselves) can tell you all this spark plug nonsense is just silly.


I'll try to keep this simple.
Factors that matter in a spark plug: Conductivity, resistance, temperature range, longevity.

Conductivity: of all the metals used in sprak plugs, copper is the most conductive. Its also soft, (see: longevity)
Resistance: pretty much every plug on the market now uses resistance to reduce RF output, its kind of a yes/no answer when buying plugs.
Temperature range: Very important in a plug. Drastically altering your heat range can lead to poor running conditions and engine damage (see: the reason the OP's arguement doesnt hold water).
Longevity: The reason alloy plugs exist in the first place. PLatinum and irridium do not conduct as well as copper, but they are harder and thus last longer.


Multiple electrodes: Electricity takes the path of least resistance, having more electrodes does not give you more than one spark at a time. In other words, it doesnt "fork", though it can alternate. Multiple electrodes simply gives you more wear surface.
Alloys: Platinum, double platinum, irridium, unobtaineum, whatever...can extend plug life, BUT, at the cost of conductivity. As easy as it is to change plugs on our bikes who cares if your plugs will last 100K miles or more. How many miles do you put on your bike in the first place?

Now, there are other factors going on. Specifically inside the plug including important factors like heat dissipation, but I said I would keep this simple.


Even if you've changed all your ignition components out for something fancy, you still need to maintain your correct heat range. Your fuel system, your air fuel ratio and the size, shape and compression ratio of your combustion chamber has NOT changed. You can buy spark plugs made out of bottled angel farts and it wont make a bit of difference in anything but the thickness of your wallet.


As for regretting joining this forum, Im a noob here myself (new to the platform only) but I can tell you there are experts here that should be listened to if you came here looking for technical information, expertise, and advice from people who've "been there done that". Its not about ego at all.

 

The thing is, Loren, this section is titled "modifications" and there are certain individuals who come in here specifically to tell people not to modify their bike, and not only is that counterproductive, its just fcuking rude. I'm only an axxhole when provoked to be so. You'd think (as ive suggested before) a "stock only" area would be created. If someone who is so strongly opinionated against any sort of modifications, you would think they would stay out of the modification section. The only reason to go in is to stir sht, which is exactly what happens. You'd expect more/better from a moderator. I really am about to stop coming around. I've given a lot to this community (as have others) but in the end it's just a stupid internet forum and i really don't *need* to be here. Thanks for your concern though.

And PTS, you're right that there are experts here that should be listened to for their knowledge- that's *never* been questioned. The trouble is that they need to keep their expertise focused on their area of knowledge and not suggest that any other way of doing things is wrong or won't work. I'll never ever challenge anyone in an area I'm not familiar with, and I'd never try to change anyone's mind about modding something. The "why" of making a modification is not my business, but if I have advise or experience I'll surely give it. It's all ridiculous, really.

 

For some of us running accessories other than stock, it HAS changed.

 

From what I have read of the manufacturers OWN tests you can see....1 to 2% improvement.
You can gain FAR more by going to sythetic oil.

They are absolutely a crutch for a poorly tuned engine though (don't foul as easily)

 

Kevin; Rick and others (me included) don't just automatically try to discourage people from modding their bikes. What we DO try to do is keep inexperienced folks from jumping off into an area that they have no understanding, experience, or expertise in. Too often, a "noob" who knows NOTHING comes along asking about "pods" for a bike that he's never even seen run. To encourage such a person to rip into a non-running bike is to give them false hope that it will ever run.

The best approach to modifying a bike as complex as the XJ is to get it running correctly FIRST; that way the effects of the mods and the changes necessary to accomodate them are more easily understood. To try to correctly tune a bike that's been modded prior to it's running properly is often an exercise in frustration.

Nobody's trying to "stir up" anything; what we ARE tring to do is to help people get their motorcycles SAFE, RELIABLE, and hopefully enjoyable. And for the uninitiated, often that is most easily accomplished with a bike that's in stock configuration.

Once it runs, rides and stops, MOD ON! Then at least you'll know what you're giving up (or gaining.)

My personal daily rider has quite a few "mods" just none of them to the exhaust or intakes. My mods have been to make the bike handle better, stop better and ride smoother; plus be even easier to live with than Yamaha had originally designed. No pod filters, but mods nonetheless.

Mods that I made AFTER being aware of how the unmodded item performed.

 

whatever.

 

I put the Iridium plugs in my 1100 and to be honest it runs the same with the standard plugs. My vote is not to waste my money on fairy dust spark plugs in the future.

My.02 if anyone cares

MN

 

I dont consider changing spark plugs a "mod" any more than I consider putting decals on an import a "mod".

You have as much right to install them on your bike as I have right to say that I think you are wasting your money. I dont understand why people get so butthurt over topics like this. I didnt try to take away your birthday. Relax, take a deep breath and realize that other people have opinions. If you arent willing to listen to them dont post in online forums.

 

I guess I wouldn't call changing the coils a "mod" either. But more like an upgrade.

 

i want those glow plugs that light up when they fire
http://www.jcwhitney.com/flashing-spark ... 06710.jcwx

 

From experience I have my own conclusion. Never use a hotter range then what your engine is specified to run UNLESS you uses hardened race pistons designed to take the excess heat. Why, because you can and will eventually burn a hole though the top of a standard piston. I have done it. Go ahead use hotter plugs and you will pay the price in time. All the guys here are doing is trying to save you from a disaster that going screw up your engine. Some mods are good others are a disaster. The ultimate choice is yours. You may get lucky. These engines use a specified heat range for a reason. But if you feel you know more then the engineers who designed the bike go for it.

 

You're right, but the issue is more deep rooted than this thread indicates. In any case, gentlemen enjoy your motorcycles.

 

Its not the forum, the reaction you are seeing is planet wide. You will find it hard for people that have used dyna coils with standard plugs to believe standard plugs can't handle them.

You will also find people who understand the internal workings and both the standard and dyna coils to accept the output would required a different plug.

It is not hate to question and disagree.

 

Well I use standard plugs with them and have had no problems. But then I find that ALL plugs that have to have a gap set are crap no matter what they are made of. And if I have a problem with my plugs I'll be the first to get rid of them.
When I find a plug that does not have a tab that you have to move to gap the plugs I'll get them! All plugs should be the same style as are used in small gas powered aircraft and marine engines NO GAP = MORE RELIABLE end of story. And I don't give a d*mn what anyone else says about that.

As far as the debate that has gone on here I think that beyond providing the in formation that nb_freeman requested there should not have been a discussion on the matter. After all he wasn't asking for anyones opinion on the matter he just wanted to know which plugs to get!!! END of STORY!!!

OH one final comment just because something makes sense on paper does not mean it is true in the real world. I have worked many, many years as an electrical engineering tech build what the engineers design. And I can't remember how many time I heard "But the math and engineering calculations say it has to work." Spark plugs are just conductors if they burn to hot you will burn them out if everything is set right they will last longer then you think.

 

Very interesting thread.

I learned a little more about plugs and human nature all
in the same read.

I hope everyone can get passed the bad feelings. After all,
we (wrenchers) are the last of our breed. Within the next
25yrs or so, vehicals and laws will prohibit back yard mechanics
from our passion. At leased things seem to be going in that
general direction.

 

You got that right parts. To each his own and the sooner we respect each others choices the better.

 

Yes!

 

After reading what "parts" had said it reminded me of a gentleman that resides in the City of Brotherly Love. A guy who works on nothing, but vintage bikes and of someone whom I thought to nominate on here as a person of interest. And yes this has nothing to do with Iridium plugs, snake oil or their manufacturers. Just figured you all needed to take a detour from these shenanigans.

Liberty Vintage

 

Back to the technical side...Iridium plugs do what they are intended to do, which is last longer. And if you carefully read the marketing literature, that's all they say they do. (Marketers bank on the fact that people read into things more than what is actually stated.) If I were Dyna, I would recommend them for my aftermarket coils too, because you will get the SAME performance as regular plugs, but for a LONGER period of time.

There MAY be a "life shortening" effect from the Dyna coils too, but I really can't say that the increased amperage through the spark plug is enough to wear the plug significantly more. IF there is more amperage, THEN there will be more wear.

So that's why you MAY want Iridium plugs with a coil upgrade. And this is from someone who generally thinks that Iridium plugs aren't worth the extra cost. (For these bikes, some plugs don't have the price differential, and some spark plugs are much harder to get to. I'm not putting anything less than Iridium in a car that you have to take half the engine apart just to get to the spark plugs.)

But neither are Iridium plugs snake oil...nor should they be a personal preference. They have very specific and actual properties that for some applications make them more effective (if only COST effective) than regular plugs. I know they aren't worth it on an stock XJ, and I know they are worth it on my stock BMW, but some places are a grey area...and they are never bad for the engine, just your wallet.

 

You mad bro?

(Han shot first!)

 

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