new owner, seca 750 questions

new member here. ive been on the forums for my dirtbike(yz125) and quad(z400) for a couple years now and my friends brother gave me his yamaha seca 750 for free! not sure of the year, he said if i can move it i can have it. tried to push it, wouldnt move. realized the brakes are seized took them off and moves freely. how much for brake rebuild kits? and it has about 7-8k on the motor. decent ammount of rust but nothing horrible or unreapairable. clutch doesnt work. took the oil fill cap off and the clutch basket and plates look perfect! almost brand new. what are some things i should look out for when i bring this thing home and try to fire it up? hasnt been ran in about 6 years. so far it looks like a nice project for the winter but dont want to be putting thousands into it since im only 21 and have 2 other bikes/quad that need some love also. thanks in advanced!

 

Looks like a '81 to me. Is that a SupperTrapp 4 to 1 exhaust?

 

seems like I never see an 81 where the original buyer actually took to the dealer in 82 for the yellow aux light to get swapped for clear. could be though. It's tremendously rare to get one that was actually made in 84-86 and the bulk of the production run was in 82. Check Chacals VIN write-up.

 

Yes its the 4-1 exhaust. is that a good pipe? can anyone answer the questions i asked, bringing the bike home tomorrow evening

 

4-1 header pipe is decent the muffler is really good allows you to add or remove plates inside to adjust sound level.

Brake caliber rebuild kits are not to expensive, check out links here for XJ forever. Chacal has all the parts you'll need and prices are listed. You should being to research the braking systems both front and rear on this site and get clear understanding as to how they work and what parts require attn. I would not ride it period with out making sure brakes are up to par.

Clutches stick over time and it may free up when engaging the transmission in gear and rocking it back and forth.

On the way home pick up a Haynes manual for the bike

When you get it home, I would focus on fuel, air and spark.

It's a great winter project, with patience, elbow grease, and some money you'll have a great ride come spring time.

 

Carbs are going to need going through, also well documented here. You MAY be able to clean them without splitting the rack, but if not, when you split the rack replace the fuel pipe seals and the shaft seals.

The clutch cover is easy to take off. I would recommend taking that cover off and pulling your clutch plates out and inspecting them and cheching them for minimum thickness, but most likely the steels are just rusty and most times can just be cleaned up with a scotchbrite pad. Its not a difficult job at all.

Lastly, before you try to turn it over, pull all your plugs and spray a good amound of PbBlaster or Kroil (or WD40 if thats all you have) into the cylinders. Let it sit overnight. Pop your timing cover on the left side of the engine and use the bolt there to turn the motor over by hand a few revolutions. If it doesnt turn you may be in trouble. if it turns (with the plugs out still) then you can install your plugs and try to fire the bike with the starter. If you have already rebuilt your carbs to perfection and bench sync'd them with the information on this forum, then it should start right up.

After you know it runs then you can go ahead and make sure its safe to ride. Brake calipers frozen is pretty common. Rebuild kits are reasonable but sometimes getting the pistons out to rebuild them is tough. Look around on here for the "grease gun trick".

The rear brake shoes apparently like to delaminate, the antidive systems likes to freeze up, the forks will likely need rebuilding, the fuse box will be shot and need replacing (upgrade to blade type), the tires are certainly out of date, and mostly likely show signs of checking...

Thats a good start at least! Have fun. Mike looked about like yours when I got it. I now get compliments everytime I ride it.