Alternative to YICS tool??

Is there any simple alternative to a YICS tool when doing a carb synch?

I think I read a post here somewhere that a strip of rag soaked in oil can be used instead??

Any thoughts / experience.......

Cheers Tim

 

I believe it can and I saw some reference to it. You can get one from Chacal for under 50.00. May be worth spending the money on if you have to to spare.

 

the reproduction "real" tool is totally worth it IMO for all but the tightest of budgets.

 

I just spent a couple of hundred bucks with chacal for shims, gaskets, donuts, petcock diaphragm & a colourtune but the budget would not stretch to the YICS tool.

I will probably get one in my next order, but for now I was hoping to get by without one.

I was hoping to get it back together this week & even if I do order one from Len it will take a bit over a week to get down to Australia!!

Tim

 

Anyone else got any idea's....Rick....Bigfitz maybe??

 

I used the oily rag method. Worked great. I just had about a 1.5in wide by maybe 3 foot long stip of t-shirt and made a knot in it every 4 inches or so. Soaked it in motor oil, squeezed out the excess, ran it all the way through a couple times to cleen the passage a little. Then centered it so I had eaqual lengths coming out each hole, and stuffed towards the middle. With a little trial and error I got it pack in tight but with enough room to put the bolts back in.

I then synced in short runs, so as not to build too much heat while making adjustments. I would rather have the correct tool, but this did the job in a pinch.

 

forget you ever heard of it and just do it

 

Was the sync' any different without your knotted rag ?

 

Hi Wiz,

Good to hear from someone from the right side of the globe!!

What do you use to block the YICS system....shop bought or home-made??

I am pretty new to this wrenching stuff (electrician by trade), but with all the help available on this site I feel confident enough to have a crack!!

Cheers
Tim

 

I cant really answer that.

 

But you were able to sync the carbs & make the engine run smoothly??

If I use this method & colourtune, will I achieve a positive result? (IYO)

Cheers
Tim

 

I,ve got a YICS tool, but I sync' sans, the subject is polarizing, do the sync' both ways, like many of us have & draw your own conclusions.

 

"I,ve got a YICS tool, but I sync' sans"

Pardon my ignorance (only new), but what does this mean?

Tim

 

Yam' recommends use of th tool, an oily tightly packed rag works too. Some use a tool or rags, some don't use anything, i use th rag method, got the tool from chacal tore up th seals each time i tried it on the yics ports edges and put it away as a waste of time/money. ....'sans' is french for without.

You still need some method of measuring th vacuum differences and yes doing this tuning maintenance will have a positive result, when done properly (results may vary) you should be able to make it purr with a little practice....hello and good luck.

...and heres some pics from a member in perth (on another topic) of th engine block..at th rear side you can see th 4 yics ports if you look carefully they are about 2-3mm
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/p=2 ... tml#209436

 

I used a piece of vacuum hose wrapped in nitto tape.

 

I've used the rags and nothing at all-no diff from what
I can tell.
But I'm still willing to try the "tool" just for giggles to see if
it does make a diff.

 

Thanks guys,

I'll give the "oily rag" method a go & see what happens.
I decided last night I would paint the valve cover & headers before I put it back together, so I will hopefully have that done by the weekend.
I also have to make up a "manometer" as well (shouldn't take too long).

When I hook the "manometer" up to sync the carbs, it's to the nipples where the fuel tap vacuum line is connected....isn't it???

I have had the bike since Easter & it wasn't running when I bought it.
I cleaned & bench synced the carbies, changed the fluids, filters, battery, plugs & brake pads & it started & ran.
I replaced the rusted out muffler with a left side Staintune muffler off a CB1000R I had given to me from a guy at work...score!!!
I had it up to 160km but still running a bit rough.
Did some more reading & searching on this wonderful site.
Checked the valve clearances (exhaust ok - inlet not).
Ordered & replaced the inlet valve shims.
Now need to vacuum sync & colourtune.
Then.....hopefully I can leave the carbies alone for a while!!!

Tim

 

Yes..manometer to nipples.
You will get more help for this kind of ?? iin Chat rather than Mods. So how did th bike feel doing th ton?,.... keep up th maintenance.

 

I thought so, thanks mate.

Thanks for the posting tip....still new to this, so I'll have to pay a bit more attention to what I'm doing!!

The bike got to the ton' pretty quickly & was fairly stable getting there.
Maintaining that speed was a little more wobbly......seemed to want to "track"
across the road surface a bit (road surface wasn't the best & had a side wind).

I got the headers & valve cover painted last night, so I should have it back together to have a go at the manometer & colourtune on the weekend!

Still need to do the wheel bearings.....can you re-pack them? They seem ok (no movement).

I'll let you know how I go.

Cheers
Tim

 

the bearings are sealed units and not packable. If they are making noise you will have to replace them.

 

Thanks PTS.

So....if the bearings aren't noisy or loose, I should leave them alone??

Tim

 

ya know now that I think about it the front left bearing where the speedo gear goes can actually be packed some. There may be a proceedure for that in the manual. When I did my post purchase inspection I pulled both wheels and inspected the bearings and brakes and just spun the rear bearings by hand to see if I could feel any grit or binding. Mine were all very good inlcuding the speedo gear and didnt require anything more than reassembly and retorque to spec.

You need to pull the rear to look at the brake shoes anyway, its a good chance to see if anything looks or feels amiss in there.

 

If there is no play in the wheel, and you don't hear the grinder effect when spinning the wheel. The odds are good that they are fine. You most likely would destroy at least one trying to get them out without the proper tool to pull them.

Ghost

 

My bike is an 84 XJ750RL which has twin discs on the front & a single disc on the rear......so no de-laminated rear shoes for me!!!

I have only done one short trip on this bike (50km) (& it's not registered yet) & couldn't hear any noises coming from the bearings & they don't seem to have any sideways movement.

I am going to pull the wheels anyway to clean off the oxidization, so I'll give them a check while I'm at it.
I have to give the front lower shocks a good clean up as well (oxidization).
PO lived in Sydney....bloody salt air!!!