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No vacuum in #3 Carb

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Durk, Sep 17, 2011.

  1. Rice_Burnarr

    Rice_Burnarr Member

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    The vacuum port is between the carbs and the cylinder. Both a closed butterfly and/or clogged pilot circuit would result in more vacuum, not less.

    So, I'm not sure what you meant by "low vacuum". :?
     
  2. Rice_Burnarr

    Rice_Burnarr Member

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    Pshaw... Hitachis? Heck, I eat 'em for breakfast.

    Haha!! :wink:

    Honestly though... I've been inside one Hitachi (and only one) to date and all I can say is that it will never work again. Never. It gave it's life in the name of science.
     
  3. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    It's apples and oranges, as I'm sure you observed. As fussy, tiny and precise as Mikunis are, they're a JOY by comparison. As long as you're meticulous to a fault.
     
  4. Durk

    Durk Member

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    I have a Keurig and pumpkin spice coffee, great stuff.
    Ok so I had spare time tonight.

    Dry/ Wet 1234: 125/145, 130/140, 130/140, 140/160

    Math: Wet is 12.5%, dry is 14%

    I popped the other set of plugs in, but it's too late to fire her up.
    We'll have to wait for the weekend.
     
  5. iwingameover

    iwingameover Active Member

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    Nevermind me. That was a long day. I must have been thinking airflow instead of vacuum.
     
  6. PTSenterprises

    PTSenterprises Member

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    looks like wear on both rings and valves but not to the point that it wouldnt run, and certainly nothing that points to #3 having significant issues over anything else.
     
  7. Rice_Burnarr

    Rice_Burnarr Member

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    I don't see anything in those numbers that would explain anything significantly different about #3 either.

    Haha. Yeah, it happens. :)
     
  8. Durk

    Durk Member

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    The last time I tried to sync I got all 4 even across the manometer, but I ran out of idle adjustment (the adjustment knob was in as far as it could go). Your idle falls as your turn the sync screws out, but the only way I can get vacuum readings is to turn them way out until the idle was too low.

    I know you guys think I'm crazy but putting the set of plugs back in that I didn't gap is taking a variable out because the bike was synced up and running fine with those plugs in. I put the factory spec gapped plugs in after I did the valves.
     
  9. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Again; spark plug gap will have no effect on the amount of vacuum being produced when you sync.

    Exactly what gap did you set the plugs at anyway? They shouldn't make that much of a difference in how the bike runs if they're within the specified "range."
     
  10. Durk

    Durk Member

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    I set them to .08mm.
     
  11. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Doubt it.

    .08mm=.003" that would be WAY narrow, bike wouldn't run.

    Hopefully you mean .8mm=.031" THAT's more believable. But it's also on the wide end of the spec, and plug gaps only get wider with the miles.

    I usually start at the "narrow" end of the range; .028" (0.7mm) would be better. That gives the gap room to grow. And provides a "fatter" spark.
     
  12. Durk

    Durk Member

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    .8 is what I meant.
    I could certainly take the 4 plugs that are at .8 and bash them down to .7.
     
  13. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    If by that you mean gently form the ground strap down to .7mm then I'd suggest it. I hope you're using a proper spark plug gap strap-bending tool. 1/10th of a MM isn't much of a "bash."
     
  14. Durk

    Durk Member

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    I wasn't and that was part of the problem. It ran much better with the plugs I didn't bash. I guess I better ask for gapping pliers for xmas.
    The other problem was my ebay YICS tool stopped working. I dunno if the o-rings thinned out or what but that was making me lose my mind. I hooked the manometer up to the bike before I messed around with it, once without the YICS tool in, and the other with it out. Both vac readings were the same, but the YICS tool let me see vac at idle, and when it wasn't in I didn't get a vac reading at idle, I had to rev the motor to see the vacuum. Well I guess after so much time in it lost its effectiveness, and I no longer saw vacuum at idle. So I held the throttle to about 4k rpm and got all my carbs even and it idles and runs now. Went for a short ride to get gas and it was nice to not hear the constant backfiring it did before. It's a tad on the rich side, I need to lower my mixture settings. Next spring I'll have to get the better YICS tool from chacal and a colortune plug. But I hear the tick tick tick tick now that my valves are in spec.
    Here is an almost worthless video I took of it running.
    http://s56.photobucket.com/albums/g199/ ... 200705.mp4

    Thanks again for everyone's help on here.
     
  15. Rickinduncan

    Rickinduncan Member

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    <<Here is an almost worthless video I took of it running>>

    Almost worthless???? !!!!
     
  16. Durk

    Durk Member

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    Well it's dark and only shows that it took someone that's owned a bike for 7 years 2+ weeks to do a carb sync. Proud moment for me :oops:
    At least I got to ride to work today.
     
  17. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Dude don't be so hard on yourself; it takes some real doing to get these things tuned right. You got it; that's what counts. You can now fiddle a bit more with FINE tuning; it will only get even better. Just be sure to make MINUTE adjustments, and take notes so you can reverse one if it has the wrong effect.

    For future reference, in regard to sparkplugs: Virtually every spark plug feeler gauge set I have has one of these oddly-shaped little "tools" on it; I know guys who've worked on cars and bikes as long as I have who didn't realize what it was for until I showed them.

    You probably have one somewhere too, and don't realize what it is:

    [​IMG]


    No bashing, or expensive pliers necessary. Some times you do need to "clean up" the edges of the tool with a small file to keep it from mashing into and chipping the insulator.
     
  18. Durk

    Durk Member

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    Wow...I do have one of those.
    My guess is that the tuning has to be spot on for the proper gap to be run.
    My neighbor came out yesterday (him and his son have a Camaro set up for drag racing) and he goes "He it's not backfiring anymore!" The backfires it was making before sounded like gunshots. Thankfully my neighbor is cool.
    It ran much better today after it got warmed up. I stopped at a gas station about halfway to work and lowered my idle. I've got to get that oil cooler off now it is taking a long time to warm up.
     
  19. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Lots of folks do and don't know what it is. It's not like it comes with instructions, how would you know?

    (See? Another side-effect of no more 'auto shop' in high school anymore.)

    No, but if you're running too wide of a gap it's less "forgiving." I always start on the low end of the spec, because as the plugs age, the gap erodes.

    Thanks to your minor dilemna, I realized that a lot of people might not know what that weird little thingie is on their feeler gauge set, and made it an "FAQ Suggestion" tech tip. Thank you, honestly.
     
  20. Durk

    Durk Member

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    Yay I get an assist.
    My highschool had a garage door in the tech area where they used to teach auto shop, but that was long gone in the era of rifle clubs, and when a teacher could back hand a student.
     
  21. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    No, man you've got it backwards. YOU got the goal (bike is running,) we (I wasn't the only one advising) get the assist.

    And better yet, hopefully a whole bunch of folks learned something in the process.
     

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