Swapping Carbs

Since the 1st Cylinder fouling a plug due to fuel richness hasnt resolved after a thorough carb cleaning, i was wondering if it's possible to swap number 1 carb to number 4 & vice-versa to confirm if it's a bad carb?

2ndly, Needed to ask If the Carb swap doesnt help i'd be leaning towards the exhaust pipes being the culprit, May be blocked. So since i don't have anyone closeby to swap my exhaust with his to confirm, Would it be harmful to just start the bike without any on?

Thank's

 

Your number 1 carburetor has the fuel line input blocked on one side. Only the two middle carburetors can be switched.

 

As an alternative i'll have to swap all the parts inside then. Darn

 

That's a lot easier than playing musical carburetors.

Have you checked the float levels?.

 

True that, Actually it were the jet's i was worried about cause last time i checked one of the Idle jet's in Carb 1 wasnt looking in a healthy shape hence thought may be swapping would do the trick

No unfortunately as for float levels i havent managed yet to figure out the actual process of observing & correcting it's level. Im very very new at it so i guess i'll have to wait & learn gradually. ~(

 

How to set your float levels.

XJs are 25 year old bikes, and have their share of little problems. Said problems tend to be minor ones; the difficulty lies in finding them, not curing.

 

Thank's for the link

btw, What exactly are the 2 ends of the clear tube attached to?

 

We have arrived at the point where your #1 might be fouling for reasons other than a carb related problem.

What is the reading of a Compression Test for Cyl-#1 ?

Let's do this "By the NUMBERS" ... and see if we can get #-1 in the game.

Fully charged battery.
Spark plugs removed.
Throttles wide-open.
Compression test readings #1 -- verified; please.

 

The one end is connected to the float bowl drain, look in the bottom right corner of the picture in the link. The other end is not connected to anything, just keep it higher than the top of the float bowl.

 

Will have to wait till tomm or may be till the weekend to get a chance to read those compression numbers. Will have to lend one or either buy myself a new tester.

P.S By any chance would a manual test be helpful here, I used to check compression on my other twin cylinder by pressing both thumb's on plug holes & observing if the compression is good enough, Isnt acurate by any means but does seem to help incase there's something wrong in one of the cylinders.

 

Cranking pressure is ~120psi, which is well beyond the thumb-calibration zone.

If your thumb can tell the difference, there's a BIG problem. 8O

 

Guess i'll have to go for a tester then, We need to attach the hose (pipe) coming from the meter/tester to the testing cylinder only or all 4 holes are to be connected to one meter? What value of compression am i suppose to have to consider it as normal though?

Ty!

 

If that's all we got ... let's give it a go!

See if your thumbs detect compression and if there is an obvious difference between the two.

If #-1 is weak ... that would be a contributing factor to a misfire and the wetting of the #-1 Plug.

Normally, I wouldn't accept "Thumb-detected Compression" results. But, this issue of getting your bike running has been "On-the-board" for so long ... the clothes I was wearing back when this job started ... don't fit me any more!

Let's put a Full Court Press on what you are doing and see if we can get the bike to run ... working within the obvious limitations and everything!

 

Weird Change, Very Weird!

Today when i reached home after a short ride & started swapping plugs from 1 & 4, I noticed the Number 1 Cylinder plug was no more carbon fouled & was in a pretty optimal condition (Whitish-brown) So i decided to check the rest 3 too & surprisingly now it's the number 3 cylinder fouling plugs

As for the messing around i did before the cylinder switched, All i recall myself doing was swap the plug wires inside the coil which connects number 1 & 4 respectively, Except this no other change was made.

P.S. Compression tests seemed to be good on all 4.

 

"99-Percent of the Studio Audience polled said this was the top reason your #-3 Plug is now the one that is misfiring ...

"And the answer IS ... "

Bad coil or wire ... loose something ... Coil, wire, plug-cap related.

I think you messed with this for long enough to deserve some NEW Coils, wires and Plug Caps.

Congratulations ... NO matter what it is ... if we have to deal with this any further ...

Start a NEW Thread ...
Congratulations.
It's like Christmas in March.
One down ... many to go!