New, and some questions.

Hi all !,
Long time reader first time poster . While I've found these forums extremely handy and found a wealth of knowledge, I do have a couple of questions that I may have missed somewhere else. I have an '82 650 Maxim that I recently picked up and though I'm not new to the motorcycle scene, this is the first 4 carb bike I've had a chance to work on without worry of hurting someone else's baby . the bike that I got was cheap, runs nice, needs lots of cosmetic care but on the road she rides pretty good. A couple questions I have are;
1. I removed the carbs with brute force sliding them out the left side of the bike, now that I've cleaned them and they are ready to go back in ... do I shove them in the same way they came out ? anyone have a trick to make it easier ?.
2. I've built cafe's in the past and this isn't what I'm doing the maxim but, I have a set of drag bars that I'd like to put on .. the issue is that the brake fluid reservoir is in the way of the gauges .. best way around this with risers ? are the stock cables functional without adjustment ?

thanks all ! hope to have a great time here !

 

1: It's easier to take them in/out from the right.

Before reinstalling have you: bench sync'ed? Verified float levels using fuel and the "clear tube method?" Ensured they pass the "clunk test?" Wouldn't want to have to pull them back off.

Also, before being able to do your running vacuum sync, you'll need to check your valve clearances and adjust as necessary.

2: The cables can usually be "tucked and re-routed" but you will need to pull the tank and pay attention to what you're doing. A 550 (also a single-disc bike) master cylinder/lever perch assembly isn't "canted" for pullbacks the way the 650 Maxim M/C is, you might consider a swap. (Both 550s use the same handlebar and M/C.) You'll need a shorter brake hose if for nothing else than aesthetics. You probably need to replace yours anyway-- check the manufacture date embossed into it. It was supposed to last 4 years; if yours is original you'll NEED to replace it.

FIRST AND FOREMOST: Check your rear brake NOW: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html

 

Welcome to the site!!
To re-install carbs, unless you have new boots it's always a fight.
Get some Vaseline in the boots, position the carb rack, if you have ratchet straps you can put some tension on the carb rack while you lever it back in place using cut blocks of wood and a wooden hammer handle. One side pops in place, then the other. (don't pry against the airbox)

 

Not on Shafties - - the clutch cable sets between 3&4 carb hats

Another note - make sure you don't trap the "throttle quadrant" under the head, a common mistake.

+1 on rear brake check and tires !!

 

Wow thanks very much ! I love this site.
All the updating to brakes and cables were done about 6 months ago, so I'm in the clear as far as that goes. Mainly everything is cosmetic, I pulled the carbs because they looked like they had never been touched, but to my surprise there was just a slight varnishing, and are very clean. I was confused though about the answer to my riser question, what did you mean in terms of a "swap".

Thanks again

 

While were on the subject of date codes. Are the date codes actual codes, or just a stamped date on the part? I haven't checked them yet on tires or brake lines yet because I don't necessarily know what/where I'm looking for.

 

I meant swap master cylinders to one that doesn't have such an extreme built in angle to it. You could use one from a 550.

 

Tires use "coded" dates, see: http://www.pjrider.com/TireCodes.htm or "Google" 'tire date codes.'

The brake lines have the actual manufacturing date embossed, no coding there.

 

So for lack of finding a 550 risers work ?

 

i take the rubber mounts between the carb and air box and push them into the air box, the rack then come right out left or right.

 

^^ I'll try that ! thanks Hendo