XJ750 Clutch SUCKS

Ive been working on my XJ750 Maxim clutch for about 3 weeks total.

It clunks into gear, killing the engine when I try to shift from nutural. For some reason it is not disengadging. Here is what Ive done so far:

-installed new clutch discs (aftermarket)
-installed new clutch springs (aftermarket heavy duty)
-adusted clutch per Rick's tech write-up
-no change
-readjusted
-no change
-pulled chutch and inspected the inner basket for burs and divots worn in
-smoothed all burs and divots out
-reinstalled and readjusted
-no change
-spent $250 at Yamaha for new YAMAHA clutch discs AND friction pates
-installed YAMAHA parts
-readjusted
-NO CHANGE! GRRRRRRRR

Ive trippe checked everythig, torqued everything to specs... I have to be missing something... HELP!

 

Depending on how deep the burrs and divots were, if you had to remove too much material, it will bind and not release correctly. How deep were the divots?

Were you careful to align the DOT on the pressure plate with the DOT cast into the basket? VERY IMPORTANT.

If you have a "spongy" cable, it won't release fully either.

The aftermarket plates should have been fine; but Yamaha or aftermarket, if the plates can't move smoothly along the splines in/on the hub and the slots in the basket, the clutch will bind.

How much "play" do you have in the lever before the clutch begins to actually pull in? If it's properly adjusted, it's either a stretchy cable or the plates are binding up. I'd start by installing a new OEM cable.

 

A bit of a lurch into gear is normal, especially cold. I'm wondering if you have a bad side stand switch/circuit. Try it on the center stand (side stand up). If it still dies you need to be looking for an electrical problem, not clutch.

 

Yes, I aligned the dots. I didn't take off much, just smoothed out the divots and removed any burs with 400 grit sandpaper.

I used a wrench on the clutch arm itself to turn it completely clockwise to completely release the clutch and bypass the clutch cable... Same results.

I'll try it with the kick stand up. I'm sure I tried it with the stand up already, but I will try it again.

 

+1 on the cable. You've gone this far, might as well go all the way.

+1 on the electrical problem.

WARNING! Only try this on CENTER STAND! If safety circuits are compromised the bike WILL lurch forward if not on center stand with CLEARANCE under rear tire!

Try on center stand, side stand down, in gear, clutch out. Bike should not crank. If it does, bad clutch switch.

Then try on center stand, side stand down, in gear, clutch in. Bike should crank. If it doesn't, bad clutch switch.

If clutch switch is ok,

Then try on center stand, side stand up, in gear, clutch in. If it doesn't crank, then suspect side stand circuit.

 

you could do this to get more travel and make adjustment easier and the lever pull harder but the clutch should work the way yamaha made it.
take all the slack out of the cable then some more, now see what happens

 

Nope. Shouldn't crank or run in gear with side stand down regardless of clutch in/out.

He should be able to crank, in gear, with side stand up AND clutch pulled. Again, try on center stand - if clutch isn't releasing it'll move.

 

It will crank in gear, with the kick stand up and clutch pulled in.
It will not crank in gear with the kick stand down and th clutch pulled in.
Also it will die if it is running in gear with the clutch in and the kickstand is put down.

Now it shifts fine. I didn't change a thing, I just tried it with the kick stand up. Is this normal? I even rode it around the block 3 times and it shifted fine.

 

The clutch probably hadn't had enough of a chance to get all oiled up until you started messing around trying to figure it out.

Did you "dredge" each and every new clutch part, plates, springs, etc., in oil prior to installation? Did you soak the friction plates in oil for an hour or so prior?

If you put the clutch together "dry" it takes a while before it will work right.

 

Yes, I soaked the Friction plates in oil for 3 days (waiting on a clutch hub) and pulled them out of the oil only to install them.... I drove it to work about 5 miles away and back. Shifts just fine. Weird.

When it's running and I put down the kick stand it kills the engine. Is that normal?

 

If it's in gear lowering the stand should kill it. It's a safety to keep you from riding with the stand down (which can cause high side crashes).

 

Only if it's in gear. If it does that even in neutral, your neutral switch isn't working correctly (or has a wiring problem.)

 

Right now all systems are go. I made my own clutch tool. Worked great.