Buying an XJ, noobie

Hi, I am looking at a 1982 Xj750RJ seca with the full fairing and integrated cases, it has about 14K miles. I have been around bikes for 35 years but this would be my first XJ. I have an opportunity to ride the bike before deciding to buy and was wondering is there anything specific on this model that I should look for. Thanks, Mike.

 

Welcome Copper! You have found the very best source of XJ knowledge on the planet. We like pictures! show us what you have buddy. These bikes have the capability of 50k+ in terms of mileage. I am Steve in Las Vegas, I have an 82 750 Maxim, but I have to start my resto job while my bike is in storage, because my dreams of home ownership have been destroyed by the bankers. If you have never owned a machine that has "bucket and shim" adjusters, know this, as the machine wears, the valve clearances get TIGHTER! this is a very neglected maintenance item on these bikes mainly because many bikers would rather ride than wrench and it leads to burnt exhaust valves. Next, check the condition of those front brake hoses, calipers and master cylinder and the condition of the brake fluid, it should be clear. If it's dark brown, drain all the fluid out and put in new. Some would say replace the hoses, and rebuild the calipers and MC. I am one who doesn't agree with this crowd, I think they are being too paranoid due to a few rare events, then again, it'll probably happen to me one of these days and they'll all have a good laugh at me, if I live to tell about it. Then there is rear brake shoe "delamination", this seems to be more common with bikes that set outside, exposed to the elements. What happens is the friction material becomes detached from the aluminum and can wedge itself in such a way that the rear wheel locks up. And there is little or no warning when this occurs, so the advice that has become standard here is remove the rear wheel and check for rear brake delamination. Well dude, I'm tired of typing, so I'll let somebody else take over. Oh, lastly, use the search feature, you can find out what you need much faster this way. Steve

 

Thanks Steve. From what I have read on here so far the items to be checked are typical of any older machines of any make.

 

There is one exception and that would be BMW, I owned 2 of them both were over 25 when I parted with them, due to their design and the quality of parts, I never once had an issue with the brakes, front, rear, drums disks, calipers,brake lines or MC, and my valves got looser with age. I put 75k on my 750 and 130k on my 900. That being said, BMW today has no appeal for me. They have become just like the rest and will also suffer from ever tightening valves, except for the twins.

 

The brake lines were factory-rated to last FOUR YEARS.

Twenty-five plus is waayyy past any "designed in" margin of safety.

They have the manufacture date stamped in them. If it's 1981 or 1982 then they ARE past their rated lifespan and DO need to be replaced. They deteriorate from the inside. You can't see it; if you pop a line you can wreck.

Steve, PLEASE STOP TELLING PEOPLE THAT WE'RE BEING "OVERLY CAUTIOUS." We're not. The people giving the "replace the old brake parts NOW" advice are riders, one and all. And we don't want to see anyone get hurt, or worse. This is a genuine safety issue not something to minimize.

Quarter century old brakes are dangerous. Period. DO NOT trust your life to them.

Start with the rear though, read this: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html

 

Thanks Fitz for the info. Since i posted my question I have been looking around this site and WOW there is a lot of useful info. I do err on the side of caution with older machinery of any kind until I know for sure everything is as it should be.