Newbie to the XJ scene

Well all I am not new to the motorbike scene, but not to up on the Maxims.

A 83 650 Maxim has caught my eye, it has about 15,000 miles, complete

bike, newer tires and battery, not rusted or dented, in good running

shape and with all functions working. Asking $800. Not being familiar with

them, can anyone tell me what sort of common problem or quirk I should

look for? I have always liked the early 80's look and would like to keep

this one going for a while.

Thanks,
Rick

 

Your going to need to to alot of checking up on this bike. Being almost 30 years old you will expect there to be a few problems. Dont be afraid though, these bikes are pretty easy to work on.

Check tire dates
brakes (rear for delamination)
valve clearances
just for a start

Get a shop manual and go though all the maintenance. Dont attempt anything to get it running properly until you get the valves in spec.

 

Thanks Bobby,
Was going to ride it today, but first snowfall off the year overnight, not much, but enough to make it slick. Maybe this afternoon.
Any "Free" source available for a service manual other than tracking down and paying for a Clymers or Haynes?

 

NO RIDING!!! Not until you've checked the rear brake, as in visually inspected the shoes. Read: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html

Then check the date codes on the tires, the date of manufacture embossed in the front brake line, and at the very least replace the brake fluid.

If you're serious about keeping it going for a while, as above, start with the valve clearances. They were supposed to have been checked initially at 3000 miles, and every 5000 miles thereafter. Because of the perceived difficulty and unrecognized necessity, this was often completely ignored. At 15K miles, if completely ignored, yours are right on the edge of disaster. The valve clearances in these motors don't loosen, they get tighter. Let them go long enough and you'll eventually burn a valve. You're getting close.

As "well cared for" as an old bike may appear, it's not an old car. You can't just jump on it and start riding, bad things can happen. Make if safe, then reliable, then ride it. Otherwise you will uncover "problem after problem" that aren't really problems at all; just manifestations of the results of extended neglect. For a bike that old to have that few miles on it, it SAT. You have some work to do to reverse the effects of that.

 

Fitz, thanks for your words of advice.
Most bikes in this neck of the woods do sit. Every year for about 6 months during winter, so there are lots of low milers here. This particular bike has been in regular use the last 2 yrs.

As far as "just jumping on it and start riding" well I don't have much choice when I test ride it, BEFORE I buy it. I will exercise caution though and appreciate your help.

If in fact I purchase it I will follow yours and Bobbys recommendations.
Thank you.

 

Obviously no better way to determine the initial condition than to at least ride it and carefully take it through the gears and check everything over. Do an initial pre-ride safety check before taking off (brakes working, lights, etc.). I would ride up gently through the rpm in 2nd or 3rd gear to at least 7000rpm and see if it feels smooth all the way. If the current owner will let you; you could check compression and that will tell you if the motor is in good shape or not. It's an easy procedure and only takes about 30 minutes to complete.

Always ask why he's selling it and observe his answer with scrutiny-the response isn't always truthful but you can tell a lot from it. Of course for that price your not getting ripped off no matter what. Parts on these old bikes are worth quite a bit. But I for one hate to see these old classics get parted out-guess unobtaniums gotta come from somewhere.

 

First, welcome to the group, there is one thing you can do to check that rear brake. If the seller would agree to to so, have him/her put the bike on the center stand, start the engine, put it in gear, then while running the engine up, maybe even shifting up to increase the speed of the rear wheel, then apply the rear brakes several times with various amounts of pressure. If there is brake shoe delamination, this test could lead to it's discovery; but the only way to know for sure is to remove the rear wheel and inspect it. Has the machine been garage kept?

 

Steve, thank you for the welcome to the group. You hit it right on the head
to what I usually do before I ride on a strangers bike. If they won't let me put it up on the center stand and run it, I pass on the sale. Yes this is a
garage kept bike, 2nd owner, 1st was the sellers father.

 

There are also safety issues with the front brakes as well, if you buy this bike you should change the following: brake lines, brake fluid and rebuild the MC and the caliper. Next, due to the design of the valves they tighten as the engine wears, so check the valve clearances. Those are the immediate concerns you should have. I did check my valves on the KZ 1300 and I'm glad I did, found several that were tight.

 

Steve, that is good info on the valves, can't say I have heard of them getting tighter with wear and time on other bikes. When I buy a used bike I always drain everything and renew all fluids. Adjust the valves, remove the rear wheel and grease the splines, check the brakes, etc. You just
can't believe every PO or take for granted anything on these old gems.

 

With the exception of the beemer it appears to me that you may not be familiar with "bucket and shim" valves. This valve tightening is a feature common to all engines that use this type of system, I had a Toyota PU that had a V6, and it had this system, I managed to go 250,000+ miles before I burnt an exhaust valve. You may be asking why I didn't have my valves adjusted... because the bast**** wanted over $800 to do the procedure. But that isn't the crazy part; I bought a 97 Tacoma which also has "bucket and shim" valves, and put over 400,000 on it and never burnt any valves, go figure. The reason for the tightening is not due to wear at the shim, it's due to wear at the valve seat, as the seat recedes from wear, the clearance between the cam and shim narrows. It's clever engineering, but it does have it's drawbacks.