Rubber Engine Inlay replacement?

i know i should put this in a new thread really but does anyone have any guides on getting rust off the bike etc etc..

i heard aluminum foil was really good for getting rust off chrome.

now i have no idea at all how to fix the oil leak i was told that it would involve taking apart my engine for a proper check to see where the oil leak is,
compression test?. i don't know how to do that i kinda know what it means, like i said i'm a newbie really and am still learning about bikes in general i can name parts and things but anything technical and i'm lost.

in my other thread "my 1981 xj 650 chop" the last picture is where i see it leak but does that mean its coming from there?

i do have a haynes manual copy on my computer for the bike.

 

Since you have a manual, start by reading the "MAINTENANCE" section through thoroughly, then go look at the bike and identify what you've read about.

You fix the oil leak by replacing the offending gasket; we've already given you some direction there.

A compression test involves using a compression gauge to read the compression produced in the cylinders. It is a good measure of the health of the motor. It's not complicated, and will give you a better idea of what you're possibly up against.

 

Can someone post the link for replacement of valve cover gasket?
I was told that replacing the gasket required shims to be replaced. . . :?

Thanks!

 

Replacing the valve cover gasket doesn't require shims be replaced.

However:

Checking your valve clearances and replacing shims does require removal of the valve cover; and it's a good idea to replace the gasket at that time.

The "how-to" I did was on a YICS motor, replacing the gasket is covered towards the end of the valve adjustment article: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html

On a non-YICS motor, it's even easier. It's just a simple flat gasket; and there are two separate rubber "half moon" plugs for the camshaft cutouts on the right side of the head. Only the YICS motors have the floppy rubber molded gasket.

 

bigfitz that is a top notch article!
Thank you - my winter to-do-list is growing.

Question - Chacal mentions checking clearances at 'room temperature'.
I am not sure when I will get to this project, but my XJ is in a non-heated garage in Wisconsin - best case scenario would be me checking clearances on a 40 degree day. Is Chacal saying 'make sure you don't get home from a 20 mile ride, jump off the bike and check clearances; or is he saying check clearances at 68 degrees???

Thanks again - the article is VERY well written and photos aplenty make it seem very easy.

 

When I have to remove Rust from Exhaust Pipes; I use Turtle Wax Chrome Polish and Rust Remover, ... and a whole bunch of 4-foot lengths of Cotton Clothes Line.

Fold the Clothes-line in half.
Fold the "Loop" back -- 2-Inches.
Pour some Turtle Wax on the Rope.
Squeeze it in the Cotton.

Wrap the rope around the Pipe ... once.
Pull on the ends of the rope, ... back and forth ... in a shoeshine motion.
Add some Turtle Wax to the Pipe and work the rope up and down the pipe.

Do the same trick with a dry section of Clothesline to "Buff"

FYI --

I have this technique on-file.
Try it at your own risk.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Chrome- ... /?ALLSTEPS

 

Thank you very much; I put a lot of effort into those, more than the factory did with their manuals apparently.

It's not just Len, the factory book says "check at room temperature." What they MEAN is "check with engine cold." The difference between 40 degrees and 68 degrees is of no consequence whatsoever; what they mean is "don't check the clearances on a warm motor." I might point out that even 4 hours after running there are still some parts in/on the motor that are still very warm. My rule is an overnight cooldown, minimum.

Thanks again.

 

ok will have a good read of my manual.
i don't have a compression gauge to do a compression test, but to be fair the starter motor has been playing up and i the past few months that i have been riding the bike i have been push starting.

i'll get my hands on some rust remover soon i have some black paint to repaint if needed, so i can try and clean her up.

you think the leak is in my head gasket? or.. when you say head gasket i guess you mean the cylinder i posted on this thread, questions like how do i know what i'm looking at/for comes to mind.

is it easy to remove the carbs?.

 

You really need to actually sit and read your manual; pull up a stool next to the bike and study.

From the top of the motor down:

-Valve cover (the very top "lid.")
-valve cover gasket.
-Cylinder head (has fins, the spark plugs screw into it.)
-Head gasket.
-Cylinders (commonly known as "jugs") also have fins, not as deep as the head.
-Cylinder "base" gasket.
-Crankcase.

The key to finding an oil leak is to get the whole motor clean and watch for where it's starting from. Quite often a valve cover gasket leak toward one of the inner spark plug "galleries" will run through the cooling passages in the head and show up somewhere else, making you think it's a head gasket leak when it's actually coming from above and behind where you're seeing it.

Since your bike has had its airbox removed and what are known as "pod" filters installed, removal of the carbs is only half as difficult as it would be with the stock stuff in place. It's never easy to remove carbs; unfortunately it is a required part of maintenance so it simply has to be done on occasion. In your case, if the PO never rejetted the bike for the pods, you will probably have the carbs off and on a half dozen times or so, and it will get easier every time.

Now go read your book.

 

Just a follow up, I am planning on checking the valve clearance when I replace the leaking valve cover gasket (see photo - lots of crud built up on cover). Are these the 'half-moon' inserts that were referenced? Do they wear out and need to be replaced also?
TIA

 

Yes those are the camshaft end caps, and YES they should definitely be replaced when you change the valve cover gasket.

 

The FIRST thing that needs to happen is that layer of crud needs to come off. You don't want to open up the motor and have some of that get dislodged into the internals. Get some old terry cloth towels and some mineral spirits and clean that all off first.

 

Thanks tskaz.

Will do bigfitz - I'm working from the back to the front of the bike this winter.
Rear brakes/ bearings.
Valve clearance and valve cover gasket.
Front fork seal replacement.
Front caliper/ master cyclinder rebuild.

If you have any of your super tutorials on the forks and front brake stuff I would sure appreciate it.

thanks again!