Hey New Guy From Minnesota.

Hey just thought i would intro my self seeing how im gonna be asking a lot of questions soon! Anyway my bike is a 1981 Seca Xj750. Ran great over the summer when i got it, but it needs some loving. So im kinda doing a restore/ upgrade!
Here is the bike the day i got it.



First thing i did was take the bags off, nice as they were they had some holes in them.



And here is where i am at today! Getting ready to do the rear brakes and bleed the front then work on the Getting the carbs out.

 

Then one of the things i would like to take care of is the gauges. Any advice for that and the plastic around the handle bars?


And last but not least im taking a guess that this isnt stock.. Anyidea what they were trying to do here?

and lastly here is my and my brothers fleet of bikes! lol

Also anyone who is in minnesota that wants to come by and lend a hand i will buy the first round! ha

 

Welcome from across the lake!

The in-line fuse: These older bikes suffer from bad clips in the fuse box. Best guess? One of the clips broke and this was the PO's solution. Might as well deal with it while you are doing the work, you'll eventually be doing them all anyway. Upgrade to a blade style fuse block.

Good that you are getting to the rear brakes, but as far as the fronts go, those look like the original lines. Originals were only supposed to last 4 years. Check the date codes and replace them with stainless braided hoses.

Our resident parts guy, Len, can get you anything you might need for your XJ. Just click the link in the upper right corner of this site.

What exactly did you want to do with the Atari (gauges)?

Nice looking stable of ponies

 

Well if i can find a stock one that is in good shape that would be fine with me. But i have seen a few on here that people have replaced with 2 after market ones that looks nice. Dunno have figured it out yet.

Where would i find the date codes? Sorry i havent worked with bikes to much.

 

Date codes are stamped right on the brake lines.

Len carries both styles for the fuse box, or if you just want to replace the clips you can get those at Radio Shack. But for around $10 most people just replace with the new style.

Oh, and don't forget to check/adjust the valve shims. They get tighter as the engine wears and if they get too tight you will burn a valve. The initial check was supposed to be at 3,000 miles, then every 5,000 miles after that. It is often overlooked on these bikes, and most of them are at the mileage where bad things can and will happen if it's neglected.

 

Cool thanks. Haven't torn into the engine yet. Gonna have to do alot more reading.

 

Hey there,v

Welcome from the Great White North! Thats a nice looking bike you got there. I like the curves!

 

Howdy from Las Vegas Nevada, I just moved away from Minneapolis last September, last August I bought a 750 Maxim from a gut in Stacy MN, when I got thr bike home I did an inspection using a mirror and found this on my frame. I was mystified until one of the guys pointed out that it was probably a freeze crack. If the bike you bought was outside over any Winters you might want to check for this kind of damage. I don't know how common this is with our bikes, but all you Northern XJers should look for this.

 

Cool thanks for the heads up ill take a look. As far as i know it was stored in the winter and i'm the 3rd owner of it.

 

Welcome to the site.

 

Airdale,
I'm over here in St. Cloud if ya need help with something.
That's about the same shape mine was in when I bought it ('82 750 Seca) but it looks totally different now because I hated just about everything about it when I bought it, except for how it ran and handled. I bobbed mine.
Keep us posted. PD

 

Sweet thanks D! The trouble I am is having is getting the carbs off ha. Does the air box need to out?

 

Pull the intake boots (airbox side) into the airbox.

Then pull the carbs from the carb holder boots (engine side). Go back and forth from 1 to 4, wiggling the carb rack free, and 2 and 3 will follow when you get 1 and 4 popped off.

 

To add to what tskaz mentioned.

You can also unbolt the airbox, and move it back approx 1/4" - 1/2" to give yourself a little more wiggle space.

Ghost

 

Kk. So I was one the right path. The air box can stay in. Just need to wiggle them out. Ha.

 

Welcome, Airdale! Keep asking your questions. The folks here are full of good information!

 

Yes so far that has showen! Hopefully my noob questions well be good in the future for those with the same! lol

Speaking of my noob questions, Is the top just like a valve cover like a car motor? Got a little bit of a oil leaking from the top end, hoping its just a easy gasket swap.

 

Yup, just replace the gasket and o-ring rubber things around the bolts and your good to go. You may want to check the vavle clearance as long as you have it off too.

 

Solid advice.

Those "o-ring rubber things" are metal and rubber composite "donuts" that are what actually press the cover against the gasket. If you look closely at the bolts, they have collars that prevent them from being overtightened; the "donuts" do the work. The good news is, once replaced with new, the gasket and donuts can be reused multiple times in subsequent valve adjustments (every 5000 miles.)

If you haven't found it yet, valve adjustment with pics (including replacing the gasket and donuts,) on a YICS bike: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html
Part Deux: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29209.html

By all means check the valve clearances. Initial was to have been at 3000 miles, every 5000 thereafter, and they're probably long overdue.

You need a service manual, which details little things like being able to unbolt the airbox and slide it rearward, etc. There are a lot of things on these bikes that aren't all that "intuitive" you'll need the book for. We try to fill the gaps in the books, but you still need a manual.

 

Yea I have the manual just didn't look at the valve cover yet. Thanks for the Link I must have missed it when I was searching.

 

Welcome fellow MNer

 

Thanks.

 

So friends in minnesota anyone with valve experance wanna give me a hand? Look at BigFitz post (Witch is awesome!) and looking at my book seems do-able but i wanna make sure im good to go in the spring! lol

 

Alright been searching on here and i didnt find anything, but i have a issue with my netural light. Its very picky on when it wants to work. Most of the time is does not then some times it will for a few days. Any idea where to start with this one? Should be a switch or contact i should try to look at first?

The my other light problem is no brake light when using my rear brakes. But it works when using the front brakes. I havent serached to much into this and ill be reading my manual tonight just thought i would get some opions. Thanks guys!

-Tyler

 

The neutral light is probably a bad connection or a sticky switch. Just need to start at the switch and trace the path, cleaning and lubricating where necessary.


The switch for the rear brake light needs to be adjusted. It should also be adjusted any time you adjust the rear brake. It's as simple as turning the adjusting nut one way or the other. Can't remember which direction "lenghtens" the pull on the switch.

The location of the rear brake light switch



The rear brake light switch

 

Awesome. I bet that's it. I adjusted the rear brake and didn't get that. Thank for the help!

 

I hope you've pulled the rear wheel and visually inspected the rear brake SHOES for delamination. You can't go by feel or how well the brakes work, and if one fully delaminates at the wrong time and jams it can lock the rear wheel.

READ THIS: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html and read all of the experiences of folks it happened to (including lockups.) Then if that evidence isn't compelling enough, READ THIS: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=34257.html

Then gather up that manual, some tools, and go pop the rear wheel off and LOOK before you get hurt.

 

I already removed the old shoes and replaced with brand new ones. I inspected the shoes and drum looked good to go! Much easier this a cars drum brakes. Its such a simple design in the way they work.
Thanks again for the info!

 

Welcome from VA! Nice looking bike. Keep asking questions and you will be ready for spring. Everyone on this site has a true passion for these bikes and don't mind lending a hand or information to keep another one on the road. Looks like you are well on your way.

 

Thanks man! Good Ol Va was there for a few years in the Navy.

 

Ok getting ready to order some brake lines from Xj4ever and i just wanna make sure I got the right stuff. To replace all my front brake lines i will need all four of these? After reading my maunal and looking it over i think i followed all the lines.

HCP2837BLKST Aftermarket DOT-approved braided stainless steel BRAKE LINE ASSEMBLY, from the distribution joint to the left brake caliper, with black sheathing.
$ 49.95

HCP2836BLKST Aftermarket DOT-approved braided stainless steel BRAKE LINE ASSEMBLY, from the distribution joint to the right brake caliper, with black sheathing.
$ 49.95

HCP2834LHBLKST Aftermarket DOT-approved braided stainless steel BRAKE LINE ASSEMBLY, from the left caliper to the left anti-dive unit, with black sheathing.
$ 37.95

HCP2834RHBLKST Aftermarket DOT-approved braided stainless steel BRAKE LINE ASSEMBLY, from the right caliper to the right anti-dive unit, with black sheathing.
$ 37.95

 

Valves are pretty simple just a bit time consuming, I am not really that close to you, I am straight south of Rochester on the border.

 

Yea doesnt look to bad. Ok after reading my haynes on all that it seems that each of the shims are number and need to be within a certian limit. Checking the clearance between the shim and the cam and then recording each of the shims that out of limit.
So then i would take my measurement and shim number and follow the chart to see what to replace it with. the empty slot on the graph is what it should be at? .11~.15 mm for intake and .16~.20 for exhaust.

 

Looks good on your brake lines; be sure to get NEW banjo bolt crush washers; one goes on each side of each fitting and they should NOT be re-used. One thing you can be sure of as well; if chacal sees anything about your order that doesn't make sense or is a "mismatch" he'll let you know, or suggest things you might have missed.

You've got the idea on the valves, and yes the "blank" is because that's the "in spec" range.

Did you see this? http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html and part deux: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29209.html They were done because none of the manuals does a very good job of illustrating the process.

 

Yea i thinking that the washers were gonna need to be replaced too.

Yes i do have your wirte up under my favorites! really help fill in the blanks.
Now its time to start getting all the supplies together for the job! ha

 

Once the cover gasket and "donuts" have been replaced, they can be re-used for subsequent valve clearance checks (every 5K) a few times. The original ones are likely crispy-crunchy.

It gets easier every time you do it.

 

Well got the valve cover off. But my tool hasn't came yet to remove the shims. Also I ordered the gasket but the donuts were 10 each for the center ones and and 20 each for the put board ones. Found out my rear break switch was broken the metal line snaped so had to get a new one. Oh well got the new one. But those donuts are crazy spendy I don't wanna know how much shims are gonna cost me.

 

If you were looking at chacal's catalog:

I think you were looking at the price for the BOLTS, the pressure washers are MUCH cheaper.

Aftermarket valve shims are about $8

 

Yea i should have look in there. Maybe it was the bolts but told him it was the rubber donuts ha. Looking at the new rear brake switch hopefully I will be able to just make a new metal arm. Still need to spend like another 200 on brake lines and my wife is questions it seeing how I got the bike for 400. Lol

 

Not sure where you saw those prices at but they aren't that high. From Chacal's catalog (XJ4Ever)

Shim's are around $8 each, it's unlikely you will need to replace them all. You can check your clearances w/o the tool. When you go to replace them be SURE the tappet tool is centered exactly on the cam lobe and once there hold it in place while you tighten it down. I didn't have trouble with most of my shims, but one little bastard wouldn't come out-so I created 2 tools to make it easier:

It's the two legs of a metal "chip" puller for computers-works great for slipping in to the shim gap and providing leverage to pop it out. You could probably find one at radio shack or somewhere similar and just bend it to break it and shape the legs. The more bent one is for popping the shim, the straighter one for pushing it up and out to grab it.

 

Just tell her the $400 you spent, plus the $800 you will spend, is still cheap for a new bike, which is what you will end up with...better than new actually.

 

It was at a dealer. I'll just have to order from him. Yea I have the yamaha shin tool on the way. I thought it would have been here by now but I forgot about the holidays. Yea I justify the money in my mind. But the truck I got this summer the transmission took a dump on me so I still heat about that one. Lol.

 

The price you paid for the bike itself is immaterial.

Unless somebody ahead of you had completed some of the work (rare) then it's going to cost between $600~$800 to properly "recommission" the bike if you do all the work yourself and do it right.

It doesn't matter if it was a $150 bike or a $1500 bike, the same stuff will need to be attended to, and the bottom line will come out around $600~$800, trust me. If you try to skip over things or take shortcuts, those items will simply come back and bite you in the form of "problems" once you start trying to actually use the bike. You're going to attend to certain things, you can do it on your schedule or let the bike make the decisions for you; it's gonna happen one way or the other. HOW it happens will have a great influence on your frustration level.

Read this carefully: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=24010.html

Email XJ4Ever or send chacal a PM; and if you're cost-sensitive, STAY AWAY FROM THE DEALER!!! They'll charge you $18 for a $5 oil filter.

Keep something in mind: ANY used bike more than about 6 years old would require most of the same work to be safe and reliable. Once the work is done then the cost of maintenance settles in to what it would have been when the bike was new. Get the bike truly recommissioned, and all you'll be buying will be oil and filters, spark plugs and an occasional tire. And lots of gasoline for all the riding you'll be doing.

 

Well as I am sitting here waiting on parts figure i would start with the few little things i have to do. So dont Flame me on this but did the spark plug and well ill just leave this here



On the old plug it just has the threaded top, is it that the way there or did the cover break in the wire?
Also to replace the wires you have to replace the whole coil also cause they are all one peice, that is my understanding at least from reading Charcal's post.

Thanks again guys for putting up with my noob questions I try to read and learn as much as i can. This is the first bike i have ever worked on so its a slow process.

 

The cap on your new plug will unscrew, leaving the threaded post exposed. This post is what goes into your plug cap.

If your coils/wires are actually bad you can:

Replace with new coils
or
Do surgery to install new wires onto your old coil. Not something I would recommend if you aren't mechanically inclined.
or
Splice new plug wires into your old wires with a plug wire splice.

 

Yea I took the cap off just wanted to make sure it was right.

 

Alright well now that i have just about all my valve parts coming. On to the next project of the bike. The carbs.
Been looking over Len's post in XJ4ever parts under the section C for the carbs, yea im at a lost i was trying to see if there is a rebuild kit i can buy or is it each of the parts alone.
I was talking to MN-Maxims about rebuilding them and i was saying the problems that i'm having. Those being it wont idle unless the choke is in a sweet spot even then it may not stay running unless i give it some gas. He was saying it could be Throttle shaft seals and FB gaskets and needles and seats. I dont know what other parts would be need or like i said before, if there is a kit to use.

 

Had my carbs on and off many times to get them set right. Now just choke push start button & here it fires. Ride for 100 yds or so now choke to just barely open. After mile or so no choke. All at about 25 degrees. So be patient and you will be much happier.

 

Well when i got the bike the PO said the bushing were worn that on the carb that control the choke on them. Dunno how much sense that makes to you guy. Like i have been saying this is still a learning curve for me.

 

Len needs to answer your question about the kits because the catalog doesn't cover his whole inventory. You can get complete kits from other suppliers, but I suspect Len has them as well-and his would be the best.

- At 'idle' only the pilot circuit is providing the fuel.
- The idle mixture screw determines the amount of air that the CV vacuum can use to pull fuel up through the pilot jet.
- The enrichment plunger (choke) will add fuel (not choke off air) to the mixture when engaged.

The shaft seals, gaskets, needles & seats would be a problem if you had no fuel flowing, leaks, or overflow (flooding). If you have no leaks, no flooding (fuel in your crankcase), and you can make the engine rev by giving it throttle-then your back to your pilot circuit or your carbs are badly out of synch. Your best bet since your doing all the other work is to dive into your carbs (sounds painful I know but it's not-just have to go slow, take copious notes/pictures, and study before you leap).

Because of lack of PO maintenance made worse by modern fuel (see ethanol) dirty carbs are a common theme for these bikes. Check your pilot screws to see where they are set and get back to us with your results. Or just pull your carbs, read up on how to clean them and join the church of clean!

Also possible easy fix is your idle adjustment screw.It's located under the carbs, in the middle. Clockwise is idle up, counter is idle down. You might check that and make sure it isn't set too low.