Starting after carb rebuild and valve adjustment...?

Inspect the Coils.

The Left Coil fires 1 & 4
Check that the Left Coil''s Spark Plug Wires run to #-1 & #-4
Likewise, ... the Right Coil's Spark Plug Wires run to #-2 & #-3

Once you get that checked:
Take a New Plug and use it to Test for Sparks.
Plug the Test Plug into 1,2,3,& 4 while the Bike is running.
Ground the Test Plug while running the testing.

 

Voltage reg and tci are new, just replaced them.

 

Ok, so then for now we will assume the problem is not there.

Please address the coil/sparkplug wires issue that Rick and I keep harping on.

Dave

 

From your video I can tell you aren't running on all 4-that's a two cylinder gallop if I ever heard one-which would make it even more likely to die as you go for 1st. Although it does look like a safety cut-off with the speed it dies

After making sure your plug wires are going to the right cylinders, check your secondary resistance by placing a meter between plug caps from the same coil. You can also check your spark in the relative dark w/extra plug held up to the engine-should be a nice fat blue spark. But the secondary Ohms will tell you if your coil is good, I'll bet that it is ok.

I suspect your pilot circuit is clogged, or your float levels are too low. When you cleaned your carbs did you pull out your pilot screws and clean the pilot circuit and replace the o-rings? If not that needs to be done. Speaking from personal experience the pilot's passages and jets are tiny and clog easily.

You can try this but no guarantee. Get some good carb cleaner with a plastic straw and while the engine is running spray liberally into the intake of the cold cylinders (since you have pods you can open one side just enough to stick the straw in). You will probably need to rev it a bit to keep it running and it may die-that's ok. Let it sit for 20 minutes and do it again. Then make sure you have good gas, dump some SeaFoam into your tank with your good gas-use your drain screws and release the old gas and introduce the new-then try to get it running again. If it's only light varnish in your circuit this may clear it up.

 

Spraying carb cleaner into a balky CV carb while the engine's running isn't going to do anything except suck carb cleaner into the engine.

Likewise, SeaFoam isn't going to clear a varnished-shut passage.

These carbs draw their fuel vertically through very tiny passages that are vacuum-controlled and "activated." They simply have to be properly cleaned, and adjusted, to work properly (or at all.)

I agree however that you probably still have a plugged pilot circuit or a couple of incorrect float levels, IF it's not a spark plug wire/cap issue.

I didn't go back and see if anybody's explained that these plug caps screw onto/into the wires. There's a threaded spike inside that goes into the core of the wire. Unscrew the offending plug cap(s) and lop about 1/4"~3/8" off the end of the wire and screw the cap back on.

Check inside the plug caps and be sure the resistor core isn't loose, there are two slots on either side of the hole for the plug's terminal, allowing the core to be engaged by a screwdriver. Gently ensure the cores are tight.

Stop worrying about what happens when you drop it into gear until it's running on all 4.

 

Didn't get into addressing re-seating the wire caps til I could be sure that the wires are running to the right places to begin with. So once we know that (which we still haven't been told), we canstart working our way back if needed..............

But yeah, make sure that the caps are on correctly...............

Dave

 

Sounds good guys thanks again I have a three day weekend so hopefully I'll have enough time to settle this issue.

 

None of us really have much in the way of lives or we wouldn't be as readily available as we are, so be sure you ask anything you need to along the way. Then we can have a rollicking discussion about whatever the issue is, and hopefully you'll be able to pick the solution out of the ensuing cacophony.

 

So I just looked at the bike. The left coil is in fact going to 1 & 4, and the right 2 & 3. SO thats a good thing. I tested all the plug wires with an extra plug. It was was light out so it was hard to tell how big the spark was but they all had spark. I cleaned the corrosion off the threaded spikes and re threaded them. So all that done but still not running on all 4. Can someone show a picture of the pilot circuit that everyone is saying is clogged. I want to check that out to make sure.

 

SO after pulling the float bowls off again there were 2 that were completely dry... It just so happens that they were my 2 cold cylinders. You can see in the picture by looking at the gaskets that 2 of them are dry (right). So is this in fact a clogged pilot?

 

Ummm, no.

Pilot jets are the jets that supply the fuel and air to idle with.

If you have two completely dry float bowls then you have a fuel supply (float) problem. You didn't "wet-set" the float levels for each carb using fuel and clear tubing or you would have discovered the problem before they went back on the bike.

Did you remove the float needle SEATS and make sure the "beanie screens" aren't clogged? Those two float valves aren't working correctly; you'll need to figure out why.

Then you'll need to set the float levels correctly using fuel and clear tubing, as described many many times on this site. You cannot take short cuts or things like this will continue to happen.

Get after those float valves.

 

Questions:

Did you break the rack apart?

Did you inspect and/or replace the needles and seats?

 

I did not break the rack apart, and I reused the screens they didn't come with the rebuild kit...but they did not seem clogged at all? Are they absolutely necessary?

 

I did repalce the float needles and seats

 

Are you running an in-line fuel filter?

You may have dislodged some rust in the tank and it got introduced to your fuel system.

How long did it sit before you did the carb cleaning?

It could be years of gunk plugging the fuel rail between #2 &#3.

 

No fuel there-at least now you have the cause of your symptoms.

To answer your question about the screens: If your bike was brand new and no debris, dirt, or rust could ever get into your fuel system then you wouldn't need the beanie screens. A functional in-line filter will catch 99% of anything you don't want in, but those screens are there to catch anything that slips by-so I would keep them.

If you end up needing to break your rack (if the blockage is in the rail) then be sure and level the carbs on a perfectly flat surface when you re-unite them. A plane of glass works well.

 

Yes I am running a brand new inline filter. and I made sure that there was no debris in between the fuel rails with high pressure air. I will pullout the seats and look at the screens tomorrow and see how they are doing? Can anyone pinpoint why there is no fuel in theses two carbs?

 

We already have.

If everything is physically and mechanically fine, then the floats are simply mis-adjusted.

I'll come back to this again: When you WET-SET the floats, USING FUEL, it involves filling the rack with fuel and using a piece of clear tubing to "read" the fuel level in each individual carb bowl. The rack has to be level in all planes, so this more easily accomplished off the bike.

IF YOU DIDN'T DO THIS then start there. Did you wet-set the floats when you rebuilt the carbs? Dry set them? Or just slam them back together without checking the levels?

 

Unfortunately I didnt know about wet setting or dry setting this is my first rebuild. So I just slammed them back in. I did the clear tube method before but must have done it wrong. Does anyone have a write up on this method?

 

Good discussion here:

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=3 ... evels.html

Lots of useful information here, but I believe he says to orient the carbs like they would be on the bike. SM calls for the carbs to be level in both planes to set them-front to back and side to side.

http://www.drpiston.com/hitachicarbs.html