Starting after carb rebuild and valve adjustment...?

So I did the clear tube method and they are all spot on. The bike is running on all four again. But still when I put it in gear it dies...? What now? This thing is dangerously close to going off a cliff!

 

Whooa dude don't do it. I know how you feel - on a scale of 1-10 your frustration level is an 11! You're making progress you got two cylinders back up and running-there are bikes that have been purchased for a song because someone couldn't figure out what you've already fixed.

Go one of two ways-take a break and leave the bike alone for a while, or back to the fight. As has been suggested are you sure-ABSOLUTELY SURE there's no safety switch in effect? Did you ever try the rolling start and shifting up to second?

Let me just throw this out. When things aren't working I have found the best solution is to try one thing at a time-that you haven't already tried and see if that makes a difference. If it's not your clutch then something is killing your ignition and it must be electrical.

 

I feel their pain. Im not one to give up but damn this thing is giving me a run (or lack there of) for my money. I did try to bump start it into second and got nothing. I adjusted my clutch just in case it wasnt engaging, still nothing. It seems electrical but there is no sidestand switch on the bike I hokked it back up (one to the prong on the tci and one to ground. The ground killed it once connected. There is no elctrical on the clutch. There is nothing else I can think of. It dies like its safety cut off but there is nothing the prong is empty???????

 

On some of these bikes, and I believe yours is one, there are TWO relays in the safety circuit; a sidestand relay and the main safety relay. If not "circumvented correctly" the system will shut the bike down when you drop it into gear if it thinks the stand is down.

You've got one of two things happening, and without being there to see it I can't tell you which:

-the above scenario is occurring, because the safety circuit is still partially (intermittently?) operational; or

-your clutch is dragging to the point that it's killing the bike when you drop it in gear.

 

This problem didnt always occur this way, It started after taking it to a shop to re do the whole wiring harness, SIMPLIFIED which has turned out to be far from that. I picked it up from the shop 3 different times rode it fine through all gears for about 2 miles. When I approached a stop I would clutch in in any gear and it died. After that it wouldnt start in gear and again would run in neutral all day long but the second it goes in gear it would die. The shop also said they were gonna change the oil but when I got it back it only had about a quart. When it dies it seems electrical but at the same time the lack of oil sitting in it for about 3 weeks could cause the clutch plates to stick. What would you guys think? I mean this thing is dying like the ignition is just shutting off so I am completely and utterly stuck!

 

Do you have the center stand still? Put it up on the center stand and see if when you shift to first the wheel jumps with the clutch pulled in. If it really jumps then I'd look toward the clutch.

The other option is to get very familiar with the simplified wiring diagram on this site and start by pulling off the wiring and rebuilding a circuit at a time. It's the only way to know exactly what is and isn't hooked up. Just becuase it isn't in the normal spot doesn't mean it's not hidden somewhere. You've had atleast two people "fixing" it before you got to it.

 

Now that yet more information about the wiring has trickled out, I'll bet any money this shop (that obviously knows only enough to be dangerous) "eliminated" one or the other of the safety relays but the other one is intact, and still partially functioning. This bike "thinks" its sidestand is down. Meanwhile, a flaky NEUTRAL switch was allowing the bike to run "thinking" the stand is down. Now that you've changed the oil, and put in proper oil (you did use motorcycle oil, right?) the neutral switch is working more frequently causing your shutdown issue. I'd definitely investigate this "minimalized" wiring; if the safety circuits are still partially operational it would explain your symptom (if indeed it is electrical.)

Please don't take the bike back to this shop anymore.

 

No jump at all it just dies... But the I try to start it in gear with the clutch fully engaged it does pull forward a little. As for that shop ever getting business from me or anyone I know, it will never happen! I did use motorcycle oil (Castrol 4T 20w50). Ill start checking for safety switches... any particular area I should focus on?

 

Between the front and rear tire. There's no telling where it may be hidden with other people having worked on it.

 

I'm still sticking with #1

And, yes, please don't have that shop "fix" it again

 

That just about made me shoot pop (soda, sodapop, coke) out my nose :lol:

 

HAHA thanks thats a great start... So i started tracing some wires... and while the bike was off I rocked the turn signal switch from side to side. well after rocking it back and forth the bike is dead, I mean no lights no accesories nothing...DEAD!!! So I started to disect it. I have a ground, a brown wire, a light brown/ white, a dark green, and a yellow and red. All of which were hooked up and looks as if they were all spliced into the headlight rocker.

 

Since I don't have time to read back through all of this and your other thread, what's the fuse box look like? Original glass type fuses?

I meant no harm with my previous comment but I've seen other people do weird things with wiring. So a relay that used to belong under the seat may well now be in the headlight bucket or some such craziness.

 

ON ORIGINAL:::

Black was the ground for signals
Dark Brown and Dark green were the power to the signals.
Looks like Red/Yellow (in the bucket) goes to the cancelling unit
Brown/White to the relay

 

I took no offense from the previous post IWIN, in fact I could use the humor or else I would be punching and breaking everything in sight. The last post was a false alarm I just popped a fuse on my solenoid( not used to having a fuse on the solenoid so I forgot to look and that was it). I have a blade type fuse box. I really thought I was onto something there but NOPE still in the same boat, just rocking back and forth.

 

Just out of curiosity, is this connector still in your headlight bucket?

This is where the clutch switch plugs into. PO jumpered this one (on my list of fixes) and the bike will start in gear...NOT RECOMMENDED

But, if there is not anything plugged into this connector then the bike thinks the clutch is always out.

That shouldn't cause your stalling issue, but a possibility.

Still brainstorming what other relay could be in place.

 

Does anyone know:

If the sidestand relay was removed, and the wires just cut, if the bike would always think the sidestand was down? If it were open-circuit when sidestand is down, and you cut the wires, the bike would still think the circuit is open.

That's the only thing I can think it is, it acts exactly like mine when it's running, in gear, and I put the sidestand down.

I'm wondering if they actually MADE a minimal wiring harness, or if they just hacked away the bits and pieces.

 

Sure. With a "functioning" (and I'm using the term very loosely here) safety system, the sidestand switch has to be jumpered to properly "bypass" it. Although in my world, that's not a good idea; the danged thing is so small I can't see it below my size 13's. That stupid switch has saved my bacon on occasion. If the wires have simply been clipped, the sidestand is down as far as the bike is concerned. Now that the neutral switch is apparently working (although you probably don't have a light any longer) the bike has started to care about the sidestand it thinks is down. Betcha.

And one quick point of fact, and I'm not making this up: the turn signal wires aren't dark brown; they're Chocolate. Honest, look it up; that's what the factory called them because there are other "brown" wires in the system.

Will you PLEASE get a book or track down a wiring diagram; guessing doesn't work with mechanicals and it certainly doesn't work with electricals. You have to figure it out and diagnose it methodically or it's going to continue to kick your butt. Invest in a cheap VOM (volt-ohm meter) and use the wiring diagram to figure out exactly what's left after these hacks got done. It's probably going to be as simple as connecting two wires together; but they'll have to be the right two or not only will it not work, something might smoke. QUIT GUESSING.

By the way, this is exactly what a whole bunch of us tried to explain to you up front, about going through the whole thing FIRST otherwise you'd have a protracted fight with it. Welcome to the jungle (we got fun and games...)

Don't give up just yet, you're getting close. We haven't BEGUN to try to tune for those pods yet...

 

Well after putting the bike on the centyer stand and watching the rear tire, it does in fact jump when putting it into gear before dying, also when trying to start in gear with the clutch pulled the tire spins. SO I toe my clutch apart to see if anything jumped out at me. Nothing did, and now I cant get my clutch back together... Man this thing just doesnt like me!

 

Hey K.....this post has no suggestions for fixes. HOWEVER, others have said it-- I'll say it to: DON'T get frustrated and give up. DON'T get rid of the bike. You WILL eventually fix it.

If you want to talk to someone who had trouble, look up Moellear. "We" took his carb rack apart somewhere around, oh, 10 times or so before finally get it solved. That was apparently something as simple as things not quite lined up right in rack re-assembly but it was beating us for the whole summer. We ended up winning the battle though.

I had a bike that would go 3/4 of a mile and blow the fuses, after running around the house many times. Run around the house for an hour. Go half a mile away......quit. turned out to be a bad regulator and tci.

When you get frustrated, stop and get a cold drink and relax. Electrical stuff can be taxing, but you'll be fine. Just hang in there.

Dave Fox