fender/tank DIY painting question

:?: I've been riding for sometime now so I don't consider myself a noob. But when it comes to customizing and mechanical parts, I'm probably worse then a noob. :roll: Anyways here's my question. I've got a great running 85 xj700 and I really want to get the fenders and tank repainted. I've never painted anything (That didn't involve spray paint) would be hard for me to do it myself (And make it look good)? :?: And how do I get the back fender off the bike?

 

Re: Another STUPID Noob Question

With plenty of patience and sanding/polishing, rattle can jobs can look killer, although holding up against gasoline on the tank is a major concern.

 

Re: Another STUPID Noob Question

There are a lot of us that do thee own paint. You don't have to be a professional to get a good looking paint job, but you do have to take your time and do as the professionals do.
Do your homework and find products that are compatible with each other. Usually staying with the same brands will keep you on the right track (primer, paint, & clearcoat) Don't mix enamals with laquers. If the paint calls for hardener, use correct amount (adding extra won't make it better)
The main thing is to prepare your work surface properly and do alot of sanding and get it smooooooooooooothe as a babies butt first - or no matter what kind of paint you use, the outcome will still look like crap. I always sand between coats to get any imperfections out to be safe. Don't be scared to sand...alot. I start out with 400 grit, then to 600, then to 1000 then to 1500 grit to get it nice and smooth before starting to apply any paint, and use the 1000 - 1500 grit between coats (including clearcoat)
I make sure to do my pinstriping (or any graphics) before applying the clearcoats to protect it. You may want to rub it out with some type of poliching compound when it sets up to get a more professional look/shine.
It all boils down to if you want a show bike or one you can ride daily. If you plan to use it for show, get it done from a professional and be willing to pay for it. If your like me and want it to look nice up close, you can do a good (enough) job short of ridicule from some nut with a maginifying glass. Keep your shop dust down by wetting the floor before you paint and using good ventilation blowing out to keep from breathing fumes. Any debris floating around in the air can screw up a good paint job.

DO NOT USE SILICONE in your paint area. It floats around in the air for days and really messes up a paint job (I found out the hard way) I was informed years ago from a body shop friend to keep it away from any place where painting is done. (good advice)

I am not in any way a professional painter, but I learned over the years some techniques that work for me. Don't be afraid to ask questions about products that may not be compatible with other products - there is alot of different chemicals in paint nowadays.
Nothing's worse than doing a good looking paint job and then having it blow up in your face by using the wrong clearcoat and having to start all over (now that really sucks)
I'm sure there are others who will steer you in the right direction also. Good luck!

 

Re: Another STUPID Noob Question

New to posts but here goes. After you get parts off; tank, fenders, and side covers then sand tank to a glass finish. Go to automotive paint store, custom your color ( 1 quart 20-40 bucks), start calling auto body repair shops explain your deal. someone will know how to do motorcycles, cost 100-130 dollars.
Be very careful putting parts back on(I learned the hard way).

 

Re: Another STUPID Noob Question

With rattle-can paint, fuel will not be an issue if you use Duplicolor brand high temp clear over your paint (ceramic enamel) It's impervious to gas/oil. Of course you should also use their paint also so it will be compatible with the clear. It was recommended to me and so far, it holds up well. Just a thought. >PD<

 

Re: Another STUPID Noob Question

97% of getting a sweet-looking paint job on your bike is:

"The Prep"

If you put the time in and repair and prepare your parts to go straight into the Paint Booth ... you'll find someone, with TALENT, at a AutoBody Shop willing to blow some REALLY NICE COLOR on the parts ... "After Hours" ... Guaranteed!

But, you've GOT to have your stuff ... ready-to-paint!

Parts are ready to paint when the ding's are hammered-out, grinded or sanded-down bare, MarGlassed or Bondo'd, Shaped and sanded ... as others have described ... until you CANNOT detect a flaw with your naked eye.

When they pass being "Felt" and looked at ... in good light ... wet and dry.

If you do what PainterD suggests ... and put your Heart into the PREP ... and bring-in your parts ... READY ... primed ... 400 Wet-sanded ... Re-primed ... 400 & 600 Wet-sanded ... washed and dusted ... with a brand-new 50-foot clothesline and a dozen wire coat hangers ... all straightened-out with the curly-Q's cut-off ...
and an envelope containing 15 or 20 -- Ugly OLD $10.00 Bills -- with a few 5's and 1's mixed-in for envelope "Fatness" ... Your Bike Gets PAINTED!

 

Re: Another STUPID Noob Question

Just thought I would say..only stupid question is the one you dont ask..I ask even if it sounds stupid..ask n e one here..lol. really though your peace of mind is worth it..ride safe ridz.

 

Re: Another STUPID Noob Question

Rick-o-matic,
Good advise!! You could probably sell balloons in a pin factory too!!!

 

Most good auto paint is $$$$$$$.
But you get what you pay for.
I'm getting ready to shoot mine.
Granted, I'll have alot of extra supplies but I'm at about $300. at least.
And I'm doing the painting myself..
I'm using dupont. not the high end Hot Hues stuff either.
Nason Primer and Chroma base and clear.
Spending that is probably dumm. But hey, sometimes I even think I'm an idiot.

Body Filler
Epoxy primer
2K primer
Black paint
Intercoat
Red pearl powder
Gold pearl powder
Red candy
Final clear
Activators
sandpaper, tack rag, tape, thinner for gun cleaning etc. etc. etc.
I'm sure I'm fogetting something.

Already have the spraying equipment.