how difficult to replace handlebars?

hey there, i am looking at putting a new set of handlebars on. I am sure that there are a number of threads with pictures, but i was wondering the difficulty on the swap

thanks

 

Pretty simple job.

Trickiest part is removing the old grips. Easiest way is using some gas and a flat head screwdriver. The gas will help separate the the grip from the bar. Also pour some through the inside of the new handle to help slip them on. Gas is great since it will evaporate quickly.

Next, be sure you do not force the throttle housing on the new bars to far. If you do, the bar end will create friction with the inside of the grip end and may not let the throttle return to idle, as designed.

Only other thing that comes to mind are cables. You may find that a change in bars will result in the need to re-route some cable or even need longer one.

Get to it...

 

not difficult at all.

Keep in mind that too drastic of a change may require a new upper brake line and clutch cable; the throttle and choke cables can usually be re-routed.

Handgrip removal can be a bit challenging unless you're replacing them, if that's the case you can just slice them and peel off. Otherwise you can "inflate" them a bit with compressed air and they'll slide off.

Believe it or not, there's a factory "official" method for tightening the handlebar clamps.

 

hmmmmm...last time i changed the grips i just cut the factory ones off and put the new ones on. There is no hole to dump gas in the new one. Sounds like more hassle than its worth (replacing brake lines, etc) I will look at some pictures and find out if im ambitious (spelling?) enough.

Thanks for the info. I will look for handle bar picture threads.

 

I had a bad grip once that I couldn't get off. Take a coat hanger and make two bends like an old manual drill, stick the coat hanger in a start turning. Works like a charm

 

Here's a start: BikeMaster Euro bend:

 

I am looking at 3 different handlebars. in the picture they look generally the same, but the rise and pullback are all different. Can anyone explain?

thanks

 

basically, different strokes for different folks.

Dave F

 

Certainly.

"Rise" is how tall the bars are from top to bottom, how much higher than the center your hands end up.

"Pullback" is how far they come back toward you.

Most manufacturers also provide a width dimension, as well as the "center" which is the "flat" distance in the center of the bar before any rising or pulling back begins.

Here's BikeMaster's chart: http://www.bikemaster.com/bmstrv2.nsf/P ... endocument

Like I said, the bars in the pic above are their "Euro" bend. I like 'em because they're all pullback and very little rise; only the clubmans pull back more and rise less. That being said, I've been considering the "GP Touring" for my 650 Seca. I ran the "Daytona" on one of my other bikes a few years back, and it was pretty nice too.

Obviously, I like low bars...

 

I use a liberal dose of hairspray into the grips before pushing them on. They go on easily with a twisting motion, and when dry ,the lacquer acts as a glue and stops them from moving.
Cheers, Murray

 

ya, from what i've been looking at I am trying to choose between the daytona, euro, and superbike. Do you know which of these will require re-routing of the brake lines, etc? Im going the sexiest, but easiest route

 

I went with broomstick straight bars and ive been fighting it ever since. Nothing fits right due to cable length. Ive learned my lessson the hardway. It looks very cool but everything is bunched up and it looks like hell from a clean look.

 

They will all require "re-routing" at the very least (clutch, throttle, brake, choke, wiring, etc.)

Both the clutch cable and the upper brake hose are way too bulky to do much with if you want it to look "factory." (ALL of my mods "look factory".)

In the case of the 550 Seca, I was able to simply re-route the choke cable in the area of the steering head and under the tank to lose the extra length; re-routing the throttle cable ended up providing a BETTER routing of that one than original (IMHO) but---

I replaced both the clutch cable and the upper hose. With chacal's help, I was able to determine an appropriate clutch cable swap with a different model bike (750R in my case) and I had him custom-make me an upper brake line of the appropriate length since I was upgrading to stainless lines anyway. Both of my 550 Secas are running the same setup; and they look like they came that way.

If you want it to come out super clean and look like the bike came that way, you'll need to replace the upper brake hose for sure and probably the clutch cable. I think it's worth it, both in terms of looks plus function and reliability.

 

Whats the average price for those Bikemaster bars? They look really nice.

 

MSRP's are all under $30, and are listed in the chart I linked to: http://www.bikemaster.com/bmstrv2.nsf/P ... endocument

They are quite often available for less through various on-line retailers. I got mine at a local shop; paid around $22.

 

Oops, I typed my message in the wrong place.

So, if I wanted to put these on my Maxim, would I need to change the mc to a seca one?

Looks fantastic!

 

I second the Euro bars, I put them on my Seca 750 and I love them.

 

I think i gave up when it meant i had the extra effort of replacing stuff. Maybe later...

 

I think I'm going to bite the bullet on some euro bars for my 750 max - hope i like em!