STUCK HEAD 1982 MAXIM XJ650J

I am trying to swap the head of my 1982 Maxim XJ650J

So far I have taken off the cam and caps and all the 14 head nuts and the 6 nuts on the side of the head. The chain tension er is also off

The carb is off.

I tried tapping on the head with a rubber mallet but it is not budging. it is stuck. When I tried prying it slightly with the back of a wooden hammer it seems to want to separate by the cylinder block and chassis ( not between the cylinder head and cylinder block )

Basically the area where the head gasket is located, it is not separating so that I can take out the head.

Since everything is aluminum, I thought I would ask some help before damaging anything.


Thanks

 

Most likely you have some corrosion buildup on the studs. Soak the studs with PBblaster, or Kroil, and let is set for a day, or two.

Ghost

 

Be sure the two (2) Inverted Studs at the Front of the Cam Chain Tunnel are off.

When the Head is free to be lifted-off, ...

Sharpen the Points of 40d Bright Common Nails to SHARP -- WEDGE -- ENDS
Not round.
Wedged!

Start the Wedges into the Gasket Seam at the Mating Surfaces of the Block and Head.
Start one ... start second one at opposite point on Head.

Get the Head to Separate ruining the Gasket which is likely treated with Shellac.

Once there is enough room to insert a Tool ...
Sharpen one edge of a Putty Knife ...
Tap the Putty Knife in between the Head and Block.

Sand a Wedge on a Hard Wood Hammer Handle
Drive the Handle between the two and pry with the wooden handle so the mating surfaces are not marred.

 

Yeah, I was going to say the first thing you need to do is make sure all the nuts and bolts are off. It shouldn't take a whole lot to pop it loose.

There are TWO nuts UNDERNEATH, one in front, one in back.

I'm going to stress this again; you need to be working from a manual.

 

Hi all,
Got the Head off finally... Bigfitz.. I am using the Haynes manual... after I read every ones response I double checked all the nuts and made sure they were all out..

It seems the culprit is mainly the rust around the olives + gasket maybe sealed with shellack. Surprisingly half the gasket came off while half of it stuck to one side of the head...anyway I got a gasket set so will be replacing them.

I also noticed a black insert around some of the studs don't know what that is ( see picture).

Couple of my long cylinder head studs seems to have some surface rust, I think I shall replace them.

Once I have cleaned up everything, Should I be using any sealant on the gasket ? If I do what is the best sealant ?

I welcome all suggestions for a proper reassembly

I wish you all a Happy New Year in Advance !!! Everyone hear has been Awesome !!! My special thanks to BigFitz & Rick for their constant support!!!

 

I'd guess that the Head has been off if the Gasket was treated with Shellac.

The material surrounding the Studs is like Heat-shrink Tubing.
The Tubing protected the Stud Threads during the build.

You'll likely find they have disintegrated over time.

Soften the remains of the Head Gasket and hardened Gasket Shellac with Lacquer Thinner.
Pour some Thinner into a Tuna Can and Brush it on the Gasket Remnant and Hardened Shellac.

Sharpening the edge of a Putty Knife razor-sharp, ... makes a good Tool for dealing with removing the Gasket and Shellac.

Stay ahead of the process by brushing-on Thinner and dealing with softened material.

A BRASS Wire Wheel will help save time cleaning-up the Head.

 

If you haven't already thought of it, you might want to replace those rusted studs if they're too far gone. It would be a bi**h to have them snap while torquing the head back on. They may just look bad and be ok, they look bad on one side in the pic.

 

Orange-N Black .. I have noted your point.

When I put in the new Gasket can I put it in dry or does it need something like shellack on on side both sides ?

Also, has anyone replaced the valve stem seals on these heads. Is there a easy check to see if they need replacement.

Physically the valve looks like they are seated fine... is it necessary to grind and seat them with grinding paste etc.

The head I am using for the swap has about 15000 miles on it.

Thanks

 

i doesn't sound like you want to take the valves out but you really should. the valve stem seals may look fine and crack next month and seating the valves isn't hard at all.
i put copper gasket in a tube around all the oil holes on both sides of the gasket and motor oil on the head and cylinders.
there should be some o-rings that need replaced by #4 cylinder too

 

go ahead and do the valve lapping. its quick and easy (quite fun too) but the hardest part and coming up with a tool to remove the two little clips which suspend the springs and keep the valves tight. here's a modified PVC pipe with a slot cut out. use a clamp (6") and compress the springs. remove the two clips and viola out come the spring coils (don't switch orientations!) and your ready to lap them valves.



I would also go ahead and get new valve stem seals. the $30 is worth your worry if they ever decided to crack and leak oil.

btw: I've done this stuff as a first-timer as well and am in the process of switching heads as we speak. my current head chipped when I was tightening the valve cover back on (too strong for my own good I suppose). the second time is going much easier since I've done this before haha. take your time and ask questions!

 

It's always nice to have just the right tools you need for doing Valves and replacing Valve Seals.

This Spring Compressor Kit is a "Knock-off" of the Pit Posse' Kit Knock-off of the Motion-Pro Tool costing close to a C-Note.

The major differences are Case Color and Design -- Thread Pitch on the Threaded Tool Rod.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004NV ... =&v=glance

 

I've got to agree. The last thing you want to do is get it back together then have to take it back apart again because the valves needed attention or a valve stem seal is dried out. It's a gamble I wouldn't take.

If you don't have a factory book, PM me with an email address and I'll send you some specific info that isn't covered in the Haynes.

My personal favorite gasket sealer is High-Tack spray. It comes in "copper" too. Much easier to apply a thin even coat by spraying.

 

I will be sure to replace those valve seals

 

Completed the head swap....Replaced the valve seals.. The shims were within specs so didn't have to change any for now... will recheck after the bike runs for a while....

I was able to start it with a squirt of starter fluid and half choke at 35 degree F in Chicago weather yesterday after starting it it ran fine, now by the exhaust join near cylinder 1 & 4 at the tail end of the exhaust header ie where it joins the box at the bottom of the bike.. there seems to be some smoke bellowing out like burning oil. I don't know if it is old oil or from cleaning. I don't see any oil on the floor so don't think it is a oil leak. This was there even before the head swap. I doubt if it is the oil pan gasket as I do not see any visible leak...

Now the two issues I have is this smoking and my clutch is binding ( I have mentioned this in another thread)... other than this the bike is running fine..... I cant wait to ride it around the block!... it is frustrating... however I am patient and want to fix it properly... wll appreciate all help in resolving this issues...
A huge thank you to Bigfitz, Rick and all the others here for their numerous suggestions ... I could not have come this far without your help and support...

 

The smoke seem to have been some oil that got there during cleaning... I was able to put the bike in top gear and swing it back and fourth a few times with the clutch pulled in. This at last stopped the binding.... !!. It is running fine now!...thanks again to everyone here for their support...