1982 XJ650J MAXIM Locked up Clutch

Hi,
When I try to put the bike in gear as the bike is running it jerks forward and stops.

The bike starts fine in neutral. When the bike is off, it is engaging all the gears. Basically when I pull the clutch all the way and engage any gear, the bike is locked in the gear. I can only roll the bike back and forth in neutral. The bike does not roll in any gear with the clutch completely pulled in.

I tried the following (very carefully):

1. With the bike off and the bike in 1st gear, I tried to spin the rear wheel manually and confirmed it was locked. I then pulled the clutch liver all the way and noticed no difference. The next step was to use a wrench to manually shift the cable attachment lever. It moved a further of about a quarter of an inch with the wrench in the same direction as the cable pulling on it, however even with that the wheels are still locked. Currently wheels are only unlocked in neutral.

2. With the bike on the side stand and the back wheel raised, I had the gears engaged carefully. The back wheel spins in all gears and does not seem to make any unusual sound. However as the wheel is spinning pulling the clutch cable does not disengage the drive ( ie the wheel keeps spinning)

Is this a clutch issue or something worse ?
Wanted to find out from the experts before I start tinkering.

 

Even when the clutch is disengaged (lever pulled in) and the bike is cold, the clutch may drag but it should still release.

Manually activating the lever is NOT a good test, but it should have disengaged the clutch.

What oil is in the bike? Was it/has it been running, or is this a fresh "resurrection?"

The clutch might just be stuck.

You probably need to pull the clutch apart for a good cleaning and inspection; if it still has the original friction plates I would recommend replacing them on the basis of age, not wear; along with new springs.

 

Hi bigfitz!,

Thank you for the swift response.
The bike has been sitting in storage for several years before I got it. I think it has not been running for atleast 4-5 years. The bike was stored with no oil in the crank.

I am using 10-40.
I have changed the filter also and flushed the engine with oil once prior to changing oil and filter.
Where can I buy the gasket for the clutch case ?

 

Your friction plates could well be stuck to the plain plates.

You might be lucky if you fill it with oil and let the engine tick over to warm up and seep in so they release. Trying to shock the plates loose could be a 'kill-or-cure'...

I was going to suggest something else, but I don't think it applies. IF you were saying that it doesn't disengage, but rather drags, I was going to suggest that the PO had overtightened the clutch basket nut and crushed the plain bearing the clutch spins on so it binds, but that's not what you described.

Clutch cover gaskets should be easy to find and taking the cover off is not difficult.

 

You might try putting it in gear with engine off, pull in clutch and try to rock the Bike backwards. Worked on my XJ1100 that sat for 8 years

 

I agree, sounds like the plates are stuck.

The fact that it was stored for so long without the plates being in oil means that they are probably all dried up.

It wouldn't surprise me a bit if the material on the friction plates crumbles when you pull the plates out.

Don't forget to replace the springs when you service the clutch.

And it is not necessary, but it is highly recommended that you replace the bolts and washers at the same time.

XJ4Ever, the banner at the top right of the screen. Len has everything you need.

 

I've run into exactly what you are describing rather often when restoring old bikes that have sat for many years. Quipte often, only the clutch cover is off, a well placed, long thin screwdriver is all that's needed to pry the cork plates off of the steelies. The friction plates on my turbo aren't actually made of cork but many of the other older bikes of the 70's and early 80's were. They stick to the steel plates and over time, "become one with each other". The steel plates will retain some bits of the cork if you use the screwdriver method but a few ride will have them nice and shiny again. I'm telling you this method because a lot of guys don't have the tool to make removal of the clutch easier....and don't feel right about using a rag<LOL>

Good luck,
jeff

 

You don't need a "tool" to do a basic clutch rebuild, only if there is a need to remove the hub/basket assembly. If you're just replacing the plates, and springs and cleaning everything up, the hub and basket can stay in place.

Consider something: Clutch friction pads are like tiny brake pads; except these were designed to "live" in oil. When a bike sits for a long time WITH oil in it, the clutch is half in/half out of the oil. As Jeff said, the pads "become one" with the plain plates and leave little bits of themselves behind.

Even if you get it broken loose, it's still a set of 30-year old plates with long dried-out crumbly pads.

Do a basic rebuild. Friction plates and springs, and you'll need a new cover gasket. You can probably re-use the plain plates after simply cleaning them up with Scotchbrite (NOT steel wool.)

Using 10W40 motorcycle oil, right? NOT car oil.

 

The thing to do is treat yourself and the bike to a whole new Clutch.
Complete Kits are on Sale all over the place.

Get a Kit a "Complete Kit with New Springs and Hardware".

Familiarize yourself with the Job by referring to the details in a Manual.
Follow the steps and Remove the Old Clutches.
Inspect the "Slots and Channels" that the Tabs fit into on the Drum.

Wipe them with a swath of Panty Hose to Test for excessive galling.
"Hammered dimples" will have to be Dressed before reassembly.

Clean the inside of the Oil Sight Glass before replacing the cover.

Get a Book.
Get a Complete Kit.
Take Pictures.
Start your own "Clutch Job" Thread.

You'll wind-up with a perfectly adjusted brand new clutch for the coming season.

 

I have to agree with Rick on this one. A new set of plates
might be the best option.
But before you buy any new parts take the advice given above
and do a complete clutch inspection. Both Rick and B-fitz
have great write-ups on replacing and adj'ing the clutch.

I have only done the clutch on my 700n but it was by far one
of the easiest jobs to do. I have a spare clutch cover gasket
that I bought from this site (xj4ever) that didn't get used as
my original gasket came off clean and hasn't leaked a drop
since.PM me and will see about a deal.
Also if I can give some more advice-Buy your parts from Len @ xj4ever.
That way you know for sure you're getting the right parts at a good price.


BTW, how many miles on the clock?

 

The entire clutch pack is VERY cheap since Yamaha used the identical clutch on nearly all their models for 12-15 year stretch....makes them very plentiful, and cheap.

jeff

 

Bigfitz- I am using 10-40 4 stroke motorcycle oil
Parts – the bike has 19400 miles on the clock
Rick .. I think I might most likely go the full replacement route as you suggest…
I will provide another update after I have opened up the cover… its freezing cold here in Chi Town… I sure miss the Texas weather where I am from…..

Thanks again to all here for your continued support....

 

You're good on the oil until it regularly gets above 60* (or doesn't get below 41) in the spring, then go to 20W50.

At 19,400 you're getting close to the mileage where you might have been looking at a clutch anyway, depending on how the bike was ridden.

Unless something completely horrible has happened (which I doubt) new friction plates, springs and if you want to be 100% cautious, bolts and washers will set it right. Unless they've been abused and are burnt or scored, the plain plates should clean up quite nicely with Scotchbrite.

Hopefully you found this: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29541.html Read it carefully, the details about the silly tabs on the plain plates and the clutch boss spring DO NOT apply to your bike; you've got no special friction plate and your plain plates are simply round. Otherwise, the procedure is the same.

*If you want to go "all-out" treat yourself to a brand new OEM clutch cable at the same time. (Be sure to lube it before installing.)

See XJ4Ever for the clutch guts and other parts. His "aftermarket" friction plates work great with cleaned-up OE plain plates, it's what I'm running in one of my bikes. Stick to OEM springs.

 

Bigfitz - I heard someone say that EBC spings are somewhat stiffer than OEM.. What is your experience ?

 

My experience is what drove my recommendation to stick to OEM springs.

Both EBC and K&L offer stiffer springs; I found them to do nothing more than make the lever slightly harder to pull. If you upgrade to a kevlar Barnett clutch, then I would recommend their springs to match; otherwise I prefer the feel of the OEM and they work just fine.

 

I have opened up the clutch pressure plate and all the plates were rusty, replaced all the plates including the one at the back behind the clip. reassembled everything properly. The trouble is that the clutch is still binding... don't know what to do now...

 

I was able to put the bike in top gear and swing it back and fourth a few times with the clutch pulled in. This at last stopped the binding.... !!. It is running fine now!...thanks again to everyone here for their support...