Rust removal and MC replace

I picked up a round headlight bucket of an 83 xj750 maxim for my 82 but the inside is rusted. Was wondering if anyone had any ideas for a getting all of it off.

It looks so gross. If I had an air compressor I might get a media blast kit but I have nowhere to keep so many tools


Also the screws for my MC reservoir are all jacked up and rusted in so I can't get them out so I was just thinking of replacing it or if anyone had cheap (possibly free) ways to get them out that would help.


And last but not least I was wondering if anyone knew of a good aftermarket instrument cluster that wouldn't be so big and bulky. Maybe even a back to basics method. Speedo, Low fuel warning light, Signal on, and Neutral light.

 

I think this way is fun:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-8vT2mdXBs8

I would only do this though if you plan on refinishing the outside too though. Other then that no tools would suggest some good old elbow work with steel wool and sand paper then paint.

 

I usually wire-bush then treat the inside of a rusty shell like that with a "rust converter" then spray paint it black with a Rustoleum product.

 

That's not bad, really. Some naval jelly and a wire brush should take care of most of it. Then spray with a good flat black paint.

 

Yeah I agree with them. Much quicker with hand work. I just like messing with chemistry.

 

paint the inside white, believe me some day your old eyes will thank you

 

For the MC screws I managed to get them out with vast amounts of 3in1 oil, and a pen punch.
Al

 

Good tip Polock, contrast IS just what's needed in such a dark place.

 

If by "jacked up" you mean the heads are all chewed up you could use a drill bit to drill the screw head off carefully, then use some kroil or PB blaster to soak the screw body, then remove with locking pliers.


As for the gauges, you could look for a set of '83 750 gauges, but I don't believe they are "plug-n-play".

You can use just about any set that has a mechanical speedo and electric tach, but bracket fabrication and/or re-wiring will be required.

 

And yes, Polock, thanks for the tip. Kinda glad I hadn't painted mine yet.

 

My MC screws were the same way. Badly mauled by a PO with the wrong screwdriver and stuck in tight! I used my smallest drill bit and drilled sideways to create a nice long channel in the screw head, then just used a sharp small flat head (not tiny) to screw them out-also put penetrant in to ease them up. I ordered XJ4Ever's replacement screws with an allen head-they are nice-no more stripping ever.

Gotta hate the rust! If we didn't breath the stuff I would say eliminate all O2 from the planet. I have had success with phosphoric acid (you can find a number of products in the stores) and then a soft wire brush to finish off the barnacles that don't go easy. You could then apply rust reformer and some quality paint-Or take it to an electroplater and have it re-chromed.

 

For th headlight bucket ..i'd give it a good soak in vinegar with an occaisional brisk scrub with a stiff brush. Have had very good results on not too deeply rusted parts with that method. It will only attack th rust not th chrome, a bit of heat speeds th process, might take a few days but it's winter innit.

 

Fitz what is a rust converter?
I think it'll be easier to do the elbow grease method with a wire brush but I agree with you LETitRIDE. Science is more fun.
As for the drilling out the screws part I've sprayed it several days in a row with penetrating oil but the screwdriver threads are round. And I don't see how drilling of the heads would help Kaz. unless you want me to drill off the heads so they clear the reservoir cap and I pull it off to pull it by the threaded part?
Sorry guys I've been working on cars for 2 years and now at 19 I've moved on to bikes. The mechanics are a bit harder with all this rust business.

If anything I think I understand Mercury's method and might try that since it sounds less risky.

Also if anyone is interested I kind of want to trade my maxim for a seca(or any cafe donor). So I can make a cafe racer

 

I used Evapo-Rust from Harbor Freight on some pieces I restored off a 72 International Scout II. It worked better than expected.

Evapo-Rust

I submersed the part in 100% solution, agitated it when I remembered, and let it soak for a couple days.

Part looked really good when done - Good enough to do some surface prep and then paint, anyway.

Another thing you could do is coat it in POR-15. That stuff is practically indestructible and goes right over rust.

 

What about this?
http://www.harborfreight.com/rustoleum- ... 67970.html

 

that is the rust reformer/converter mentioned earlier in the thread

 

Try googling rust electrolysis

 

Muchas gracias. Guess I'm making the trip out to harbor freight this afternoon. -Wire brush
-Rust converter
-sand paper
-flat black paint
-drill bits

Anything else anyone reccomends?

 

An alternate to drilling a slot into the screw head that I have used dozens of times successfully is to use a small (about 1") carbide cut-off wheel on a dremel tool to make a slot for a flat blade screwdriver. Also, if there is any room to clamp the mc cover tighter to the lever body it will relieve some of the tension on the screw and allow it to pop free more easily. Soak well with pen. oil first of course. Good luck.

 

update-
Drilled out the head of the screws with a drill bit

Got the reservoir open and the brake fluid is brown and the rubber (diaphragm?) between the cover and liquid is all dry and dirty on the cover side. Not too long ago when i replaced the clutch MC on my car brake fluid was clear and smelled sweet. This stuff is brown and I was scared to sniff it also it was almost empty. I was thinking about rebuilding it but i cant get my needle nose vise grips around the tiny bit of thread left showing. I have screw extractor pero Im not sure how to use them.