Good Deal?

1982 Yamaha for sale

First note i called dibs on this.


i sold my bike back in december and always regretted doing it (damn utahs are cheapasses for selling bikes) but had to as i moved out of colorado. I saw this baby by chance and first thing in my mind, MUST GET.
Called the guy up about the bike. Apparently the shop that kept the bike for him closed out for not making payments and he just had it since then. The mechanic reported to him that he needs a new starter relay switch but i don't that part anywhere other than the handle switch...

So opinions? Good buy? I'm going to give the guy 700 bucks so he can reserve the bike to me and to get it all the way up to provo.

 

Oh yeah the guy says it only has 9000 miles on it. How the f*** do i keep finding these low mileage bikes?

 

I saw that bike when it was first posted on KSL, but Kanab was too far for me to go for a bike (I already have 5) Looks like it should be a easy fix to get it on the road again.

 

Woah you are up near Hill AFB that is a long way, im in Pleasant Grove right now so its closer plus i was willing to charge the guy to haul it all the way up here.

 

Is the bike actually running? I worry when I hear the words: "The mechanic said...." Would be a fair price for a bike that is rideable... [When I got my 650, the PO rode it up to the house.......30 year-old brake lines and 12 year-old tires and all.....]......otherwise, not a bad lookin bike..

Dave

 

From what he said the engine wouldn't start one day and he rolled it up to the former mechanic's shop and was told it was the starter relay switch. He told me he hasn't even attempted repairs as he doesn't know what he is doing (sounds probable) Haven't gave him money for it yet.

 

Do a compression test?

 

Have him push start the thing and get it on video, I dont like the wording as well. Sounds a bit fishy to me.

 

Starter Relay ... a.k.a. ... Solenoid.
No big deal.

You should be able to Start the Bike by Shorting the two H-T Posts on the Solenoid.

Minimally:

If you are going to buy a Bike that won't start ---> for ANY REASON.
DO ... A ... COMPRESSION TEST.
::: Makes sure the Plant aint seized
::: If the numbers are bad. No deal. Take money and run.

Before you close the deal; get the results of a Compression Test.
Good compression is the sign of a healthy, well maintained machine.

Low compression means the Engine will soon need MAJOR work.

You can pick-up a Compression Tester for under $30.00
Harbor Freight, Sears, K-Mart, WalMart, ... AutoZone.

Throw what you need in a Gym Bag.
Plug Wrench. Spark Plug Tools.
Compression Test Gauge and Hoses/Fittings
Jumper Cables
Duct Tape
New or Old Screwdriver

Hook the Bike up to a Fully Charged Battery
Pull the Plugs
Unplug the TCI - "Black Box" - Ignitor
Tape the Throttles WIDE OPEN
Follow the instructions that come with the Gauge and get the Compression on ALL four holes.

Excellent: 145 - 160 psi
Good: 130 - 145 psi
Border line: 125 - 130 psi
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Bad News: 120 and below.
Walk or drastically lower price.

 

sounds doable (i think, hopefully my father can live without the auto tools for a day).


now you mean drastically lower price, do you mean drop the price cause this is gonna be a headache in the garage and my pocketbook?

 

If it come-out with what might be construed as "Scary" Compression Values, ...
that means all the Fun is used-up and may soon be replaced by aggravation.

If you're going to buy somebody-else's troubles; there's no reason for you to spend a lot of money for them.

 

good point but crap now im dreading the meeting.....
I really want the bike and this one should clear me for my full motorcycle permit here (they limit the cc size you can ride around here and hopefully the 748 can clear me for all bikes)

 

Understand this: If the motor is in FINE shape, you're still looking at around $600~$800 to do a proper "recommissioning." Assuming you doing all the work; that's just the (basic) parts bill.

So get a compression test; if it makes good numbers (over 140 in all 4) then it's worth $300 AT THE MOST. For $600 it should run AND give good compression numbers.

 

somehow i hope he can produce those mechanic's statements as that price is a kick in the balls.

 

Sorry, it's just the plain and simple truth from somebody who's recommissioned a couple of XJs over the last few years. It's better to know it going in, rather than be surprised and frustrated as the costs mount. But it's also why you don't want to spend $600 or $700 on a non-runner.

You COULD go all crazy and drop $5Grand+ into it too; some folks here have.

You need to compare it to the cost of a NEW bike; here, read this: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14581.html

I'm not trying to discourage you, by any means. Just be sure you know what you're getting yourself into is all.

 

Ok..... so i just got a call from him and apparently he was able to start it up . I can hear him starting it up too. I will still check everything since he said its been sitting around for a year but...... yea.......

 

You still want a compression test.

Do yourself a favor and walk in thinking you're not going to buy the bike and make it convince you to buy it.

It's a hell of a lot less time and money to wait for a good bike than to buy a crappy one. You ride sooner if you wait for the good one, trust me on this.

Consider the purchase of a bike this old as a purchase of some parts of a bike, not all of them. You're buying enough parts to start hanging new parts on something.

Unless you find a magic bike, this is going to cost you as much as a gently used 5 - 8 year old bike, you just pay for it over time instead of all at once. You had better REALLY like these bikes to bother, it's not something you should do just to "get a bike." If you don't have some sort of attachment to this type of bike, do yourself a favor and save some more money to buy something newish and cleanish, cause you're going to put time and money into the XJ.

Not trying to turn you off of the bike, just noting some stuff which might be useful.

 

Like i said i regretted selling my last one and this one "seems" it was taken more care of than my other one. This is a lucky strike i never thought i would find another one.

 

If you like the bike, the numbers (compression) are good and there are no obvious signs of neglect or abuse then I would buy-BUT don't go in with your emotions and desire to buy out front. Use your reason and consider it from a purely practical place. And keep in mind that most sellers will present a price that is at least 10% above what they expect to get and will take-So be a 2-wheeler dealer. This will prevent buyer's remorse.

I have to take issue with the statement it will cost as much as a gently used 2000's model bike. You can't find one that compares with an XJ for less than $3000, and that will be more like a 2000 model not a 2005 for sure. And there are no guarantee's that you won't put big $$ into one of those either. After buying and re-commissioning (90% there) as BF likes to say, I have spent $1500. The only thing I have left to do is some minor cosmetics and new rear shocks so I will max out around $1800 with a basically better than new 1981 bike at that point-and then only needing normal maintenance after that (which by the way is cheaper on these bikes than a newish one).

Do your homework and buy confidently if it pans out.

 

Duly noted guys and thanks for the advice too. So guess solenoid is still good and the front switch is wonky so that can be easy fix. Guy says hes got some statements from his former's mechanic's shop proving the brakes rebuild and complete oil change job so starting to look good, also doesn't help the guy is calling me trying to figure out whats wrong with the bike.