removed my air box and want air filter pods

hello alll!!. new to the fourm and new to my 1983 maxim 750. so here is my question.. im taking the bike apart and i want the air pod filers. and i just got the air box out and was wondering what i need to do with the air hoses that come out of the air box and into the motor?? some help would be greeat!!

 

Oh boy, here we go.....search the forums, there is a ton of stuff on pods, good luck and welcome the the best place you will ever find for xj knowledge.

 

so i think replacing the air filter is going to cost me upwards for 250$$ i dont think im ready for that hahaha. stock should work..just need a new air filter

 

pods are demons for the XJ, the general feelings from what I've read from the guys and girls is...... DON'T change to pods, you'll open up a can of worms trying to rejet etc.

I'm sure Bigfitz will be along farely soon to try to explain

 

So you are no longer looking for a pod set up?

 

I've given up; all anybody wants is an argument. POD on; just don't expect your motor to pull much past 5K anymore.

Float levels have apparently become the "new valve clearances." And everybody seems to want to go cheap on their brakes.

I'll stick to those issues.

 

Some people have had success with the velocity stacked pods. Look in the forums under XJ Modifications. You stack the pod on the carb to airbox boot. But you will be doing some jetting and colortuning. If you want sport bike response throughout the power band, stick with the original setup. If your just cruising and want low end boost and looks, go with pods.

 

Or wait for my project. Lol!!!!

 

If about 20 more people would post-up their results in my POD thread,

POD Success Stories

. . . a cohesive pattern would eventually emerge.

 

mmmm sportsbike and powerband and XJ all in the same sentence .

 

I think it just might be possible to alleviate some of the drawbacks that present themselves when the CV Carbed XJ-Engine is outfitted with Pods.

The CENTRAL ISSUE everyone seeks to overcome is:
a) The Lean Conditions that are created.
b) Response and Performance in the Mid-Range and W-O-T.

The logical solution:
INCREASE Main FUEL Size.

But, after re-jetting ... the problem persists or some other MIXTURE RELATED Issue is born..

Therefore, after some experimentation, I came to realize that FUEL SUPPLY into the Engine --> despite having a Larger Main FUEL Jet was hindered.

Main Jet supplied FUEL does NOT exit the Top of the Emulsion Tube in sufficient quantity AND is not atomized sufficiently to provide a powerful explosive burn in the Combustion Chamber.

The Pods allow Fast Moving AIR to pass-OVER the Atmosphere Vent at the Top of the Intake Horn.
The SWIFT MOVING AIR across that Port results in LOWERING the Pressure at the Port.
The subsequent lowering of Pressure, there, ... DRAWS UPON THE VOLUME OF AIR WITHIN THAT ENTIRE CAVITY AS THE VACUUM OCCURS.

The Atmosphere Port supplies AIR to the Cavity BELOW the Rubber Diaphragm of the Diaphragm-Piston Assy.
> a) Making the collapse of the Diaphragm slower and more difficult.
> b) Robbing the Cavity of AIR --->>> NEEDED for supplying atmosphere to BOTH the AIR JETS.

At Low rpm, ... there is sufficient AIR to satisfy PILOT AIR requirement.
At High rpm, ... the space is evacuated of Atmosphere due to the Negative Pressure created at the Atmosphere Vent.

The AIR :::: --->>> AIR <<<---:::: needed for facilitating the SIPHONING and ATOMIZATION of Fuel supplied by the Main FUEL Jet IS NOT PRESENT causing a serious malfunction.

LESS FUEL is sucked from the Emulsion Tube.
The PISTON does not rise is rapid response for power.
The FUEL that does get supplied is released in rivulets rather than a spray.

You get:
A Lean Condition.
No response to Throttle
Less power.

Sounds familiar, ... huh?

 

Yep, the XJ700 Maxim-X is fitted with the 20 valve, water cooled sports bike engine

 

The XJ550 motor makes peak power at redline, 10K rpm. It has a 6-speed transmission.

Does it need plastic bodywork to be classified as a "sportsbike?" (Not all XJs are Maxims, or even shaft-driven.)

 

all this info is great thank you!!. i think i will just stick with the original set up until i learn some more. and get some more green in my pockets, have you guys ever used kreem? to coat you tank. is it worth it? and and tips on cleaning it out. i did electrolysis on it and seemed to do ok but i feel like i could do a little better.. thanks again

 

My experemces with kreem tank liners is spending several days removing it when it starts to peel off. I have heard better reviews from the POR-15 system. The key to a good tank liner is to spend the time cleaning and prepping the tank.

 

Double post, mods feel free to delete this one.

 

This is an excellent explaination Rick! When I said the word pods and 5 people yelled don't say that word!!! I just accepted without question that pods where a no no on this bike but your theory on why is great for those who insist. You should make a new post on why not to pod and stickey it.

Also Fitz don't give up on the pod campaign. You've set a lot of us new guys including me straight about them and saved us a pile of headaches. Keep up the good work.