Master Cylinder Rebuild or Replace?

So I took apart my brake master cylinder and I'm not sure if I should rebuild or replace it. Below are some pics of the MC so hopefully someone can tell me.

This is cover off


Diaphragm off (If I'm assuming correctly the name)

Inside with no fluid


I need to get this black piece off in order to disconnect it from the handlebars but don't know how

 

Dude, Just get a new one and be done with it. Might as well change out your lines too.

 

Time is free, buying new parts costs money that I need to spend on my metro card until I get the bike roadworthy again and books for school. I'm on a college student budget.

 

Rebuild - straightforward job

 

I would print out the How-To on rebuilding this and go for it! Time doesn't cost you nothing but your time. Sounds like you are on a budget like most of us. They are not that hard to do. Plus you get the confidence a good feeling of doing it yourself. Get with Len to get your parts fast and cheap and he will make sure you get the right parts you need. Go for it. and good luck.

 

Getting those screws out does require some special tools. If you have them good, if not I would check the price on another used one. Having to buy the tools would likley cost more then a good rebuildable one. Check with a local machine shop to see what they would charge you. Maybe a friend nearby has tools.
Stuff you will need minimum. Drill and bits, screw extractor set. taps to clean threads.

 

I have a decent tool collection. and a friend at sears
The only thing from your list I don't have is a tap

What I really need to know is how to get that black piece out and whether I should replace that diaphragm or clean it?

 

The black piece is the fluid level sensor. Don't try to remove it unless you intend to replace it. I have tried and failed a few times. Just disconnect the wires from inside the headlight bucket and remove it with the master cylinder.
You can clean and reinstall the diaphram, I woiuld say replace it, A rebuild kit is cheap insurance.

 

A New Master will be dandy and save time.
The Old Master is salvageable.

The Broken-off Screws are SOFT Steel and will Drill out easily.
There's enough stock to accommodate the NEXT size Tap.

Drill, Tap and replace the Fasteners with Stainless.
The Holes on the Lid need to be enlarged, too.
The Holes in the Rubber Gasket can be easily enlarges with a Leather Workers Hole Punch.

http://www.google.com/products/catalog? ... CH4Q8wIwAA

 

Thanks mlew now I can take the MC off and work with it on a table instead of standing next to my bike.

I think I'll have to try that Rick because I can't a grip on those at all.

 

You said you have a friend at Sears.

I'm a firm believer in "the right tool for the job."

This is what I use for master cylinder screws, they were why I got this set: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... 1995054394

 

Remove the screw that holds the sensor "arm" and then you can carefully pull the sensor out of the bottom of the m/c............there is an o-ring that seals it and it's a tight fit, though.

The real key as to whether to rebuild or replace depends on the condition of the piston bore...........if it's pitted or rusted badly, then it's time for a new m/c. You have to look carefully at it with a strong light to see the condition. Bikes that have sat for a long time and have rarely (or never) had their brake fluid changed (the fluid absorbs water) typically will have deeply pitted piston bores which will tear up new piston seals rather quickly........

 

Just create new flat grooves in the screws and use a small flathead to remove. You could use a cut off wheel on a dremmel and just be careful not to go into your MC. Liberally douse them with penetrant and screw them out. If you don't have a dremmel you could try the extractors. You might also be able to use a tiny drill bit and remove enough material that the rest will just come out-no need to re-tap.

 

The idiot at Home depot told me I made up a left hand drive drill bit and when I showed him a video of someone using one he told me that it was a normal drill bit used counter clockwise. I went home with a drill bit and the extractor wouldn't bite. I ended up ruining the master cylinder and now have to buy a new one.

 

There's enough stock to have the hole drilled-out oversized and tapped to an oversize thread.

(Provided you haven't ruined the MC trying to get-out the fragment.)

 

So I bought a used MC off ebay for $23.10 and am trying to rebuild but for the life of me I can't get the circlip out.

Please I'm ripping my hair out. I'll get a grip with snap ring pliers and I squeeze the clip shut but as I start to pull it out I lose grip. Are any XJers willing to loan me the tool they've successfully used?

If any kind soul is willing to be so kind, PLEASE PM me with your shipping info and email and I'll reply with a shipping label. I am very respectful of the property of others and will return it as soon as I finish the rebuild.

 

Since you can buy the clip new, you can "destroy" this one.
Make a hook from coat hanger wire and pull the clip while squeezing.

 

Fabricate a MC Clip tool.

Take a pair of Needle Noses Pliers and Grind them down for use as a Master Cylinder Circlip tool.

Phase-1
Bench Grinder:
Slim-down the WIDTH
Remove material surrounding the Pivot
Remove material from the Jaws

Phase-2
Dremel Tool:
Smooth and Shape Tool to FIT
Create ROUNDED-ENDS to Fit Circlip.

::::Fabricated Brake Master Circlip Tool ::::

 

I do not own a bench grinder and do not know where I would gain access to one

How about you loan me yours and I'll pay for round trip shipping?

 

Go to the auto parts and buy a better set of long-nosed internal snap-ring pliers for less than $20.

I have a set in my tool box that looks just like the pliers Rick modified (except they have interchangeable tips, straight and 90*)

 

bigfitz I bought these at pepboys http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/ ... ls/pliers/

but around here people buy tools and return them as soon as the job is done so I end up with used and abused tools. These will grab the clip and then lose grip as soon as I try to start extracting it

 

Just carefully file little notches in your existing Snap-Ring plier bits so that they will have a little indentation to grab to, and you can additionally use a bit of wire as I said earlier to help coax them along.

If you're really stuck, it helps to have a relationship with a little Ma & Pop motorcycle shop, or machine shop - you bring in a 2 minute job all clean and prepped-out, and they just do it. Sometimes it's $10.

 

I'll try the notch thing

I've been in Florida and the people are completely different than they are here even in the urban areas. There's not really such a thing as a ma & pa shop. The nearest dealership ignores anyone who doesn't look like a douche and another one ignored me and one of the workers bumped me and then grilled me the day I went in prepared to drop ~$5000 on a new bike. Sad thing is I was wearing my orange NYC lifeguard shirt and it's well known that A. working for the city pays well and B. Those of us teenage guys who work as lifeguard love buying expensive toys. So it'd be really hard to find one and I wouldn't know a machine shop if it turned out my dad owned one.

 

AHHH!!!! I've never been so excited TIME I swear I'd kiss ya. The notch thing and a little finesse got it out thanks for the tip. And thanks to Fitz and Rick because I feel like you guys keep a lot of us new guys from quitting and buying a newer bike. Jenny (my bike) thanks you guys as well

 

Good to hear - - what does a "douche" look like?? A tourist?? :lol:

 

A douche is basically someone who dresses in only the most ridiculously expensive of name brand clothing, are only concerned with their looks, and think they are the most attractive strongest person out there. Inclusively the males will most likely be very feminine with their grooming habits. Every male on the "Jersey shore" tv show is a douche

 

Taken from urban dictionary...

douche

a word to describe an individual who has shown themself to be very brainless in one way or another, thus comparing them to the cleansing product for vaginas.

"you're such a douche... i wish i knew your existence was this pathetic when i started hanging out with u."

Good word for most of the XJ po's that bit off more than they could chew and didn't have the fortitude to follow proper maintenance :lol:

 

+1 couldn't agree more

 

I know I'm a bit late to the game, but I stripped the hell out of one of my screw heads (the other came out easy) and used one of these on it:

http://www.amazon.com/Alden-8440P-Grabi ... ab+it+tool

Worked like a charm.

 

Nah only about 53 1/2 weeks lol

Useful tools to have but a bit expensive for screw extractors to be honest, can get a 12pc set on ebay for roughly same price :?