Right blinker stopped blinking?

It just holds a solid yellow. The connections in the handle aren't great--I have to kind of fish around to turn them off, too, and they usually don't auto-turn-off after a turn (are they supposed to, or not?).

Makes me nervous about getting pulled over, like a messed up blinker would get me in trouble.

 

It could be a resistor or something(I'm not too knowlegeble in the wiring system but it would make sense to me?) - check those connections - you slide the button DOWN to cancel the signal.

I'll try to find you a wiring schematic, they're all over this place.

 

What bike do you have?

 

82 XJ650 maxim

 

Same thing happened to me. Turned out to be a loose connection coming off the rear turn signal stalk. Try this: disconnect the wires, pinch the female connector a little tighter, then plug them back in. Do this front and rear, and see if that does anything.

 

Troubleshooting a job like can be done in a jiffy with a good 12-Volt Test Light.

This is my Favorite 12 Volt Test Light.
http://www.rjtool.com/automotive-tools/ ... an-72.html

$12.00

Add Tape or Heat Shrink to cover most of the Probe from Shorting while maneuvering in tight spaces.

Tests for Voltage with a Light and TONE!

Signal Lights:
Check Fuse
Test Bulb
Test Circuit at Bulb Socket
Test Wire at Switch
Test Switch

::: Fuse Panel :::

Replace OEM Fuse Panel with Modern "Blade-type" Fuse Panel.
Original Fuse Panels are subject to failure 10 years ago.

 

I don't understand... The light lights up, on command, so I know the voltage must be going to it. It just is *solid*. How is that controlled? What am I testing for?

 

Are our fuseboxes really expected to go bad? I thought it was just easier to find spares fore blade style fuses. How do I go about buying one? Who do I talk to?

 

-Yes they do, all the time. The clips crystallize and break all by themselves.

-It is. Replacement is recommended. Or you can rebuild the fusebox and stick to glass fuses.

-See XJ4Ever: click the logo/link in the site banner, upper right; PM member chacal or send an email to "info AT XJ4Ever DOT com."

The turn signals flash because of the current drawn by the bulbs tripping the flasher. They need to be 27W bulbs, you didn't just replace a RH side bulb, did you?

Is it exhibiting the problem when you're testing in the garage with the bike off? It could be as simple as a low battery. However, if the left signal works, it is likely a connection problem somewhere; a loose ground wire in the headlight shell, it could be one of many things.

The signals use the same flasher unit for left or right, so it's already "isolated" to the right-side circuitry.

The way the self-cancelling signals are supposed to work is this: Once activated, the signals should flash until the motorcycle has travelled 10 seconds or 150 meters (490 feet,) whichever is greater. If the motorcycle isn't moving, they should stay on until it moves as described or you cancel them.

You can manually cancel the signals by pushing the switch straight IN when it's in the center position.

Quite often problems like you're experiencing, if not simply a connection issue, can be traced to the switch assembly itself; it's a bit of a "mechanical marvel" inside.

I'm going to be doing a "how-to" on the LH switch pod soon, focusing on refurbishing the turn signal switch guts.

 

The flasher unit works on current flow. You might have enough *voltage* going to the bulb, but not enough *current* flowing through the flasher unit to get it to do its thing... at least that's my guess.

Like I said, mine was doing exactly the same thing. Left signals worked fine, right side would light solid. I squeezed one female connector a little tighter, and the problem magically went away.

 

Looks like it was as schmuckaholic described; jummeyed the connections around, found a loose ground cable that wasn't firmly bolted and got a new screw and got it in tight, and just messed with the whole thing. Squeezed contacts with pliers to get them tighter. Voila! Blinker blinks again. Realized how fragile the fusebox was in the process, however, will definitely be upgrading that.

Also of note: my headlight/dial lights wouldn't come on after I had finished messing around. Eventually I stumbled upon the relay for them (under left side cover, yellow shiny box thing) and realized its contacts weren't stellar. Some tapping got it on again. I feel like I should take all the wires out and redo them, makes me nervous. All holds together fine while riding, though.

Played with the horn contacts, too, squeezing with pliers and such, also got that sounding solid. Still might replace it, isn't the loudest one out there, and that's a real safety issue.

I didn't redo the bulb, but they are obviously shinier than the rest of the bike (all four flasher mechanisms), so they were apparently replaced at some point. It's evident that someone has played with the electrical system before, there are subtle changes that don't fit with the default stock pattern. Tape here, a bolt moved there, a bolt missing here (replaced a couple missing non-essential bolts today), etc.

I'll be trying out the self-cancelling flasher soon--I always terminate mine really promptly, by pushing in the center position, so I might just not be giving the bike a chance to turn off by themselves.

I think I need a new LH switch pod anyways, as my high-beam switch was broken off by some PO. Does XJ4ever sell those? How much might they run for?

 

Question:

What would an ideal, minimalist electrical testing/servicing kit look like? As in, what would you keep with you on a long, lightweight trip that would enable you to diagnose and treat electrical problems on the go? Some spare wire, electrical tape, and multimeter, perhaps? Maybe something for cleaning contacts, some spare relays and bulbs? What else/what less?

 

If I expect to be doing any work on electrics, or want to be ready for it, s small gas powered soldering iron (and solder) is good for getting the job done properly. That's one wih a closed flame inside a catalytic gauze, NOT a flamethrower.

If you start carrying more than that you'll have wire strippers, crimpers, blade connectors and heat-shrink tube. And some squirty contact cleaner plus one of those pencil-type abrasive tools for cleaning the contacts in bulb holders, but you're starting to carry quie a lot by then !

My personal view of the range of connectors available is that ONLY the solder-type connectors are worth using (even if you only crimp them !). Those snap-together scotch connectors always seem to give more trouble furher down the line and the much more common aluminium red or blue crimp connectors are more likely to corrode or to have the wires pull out than to give good service. Others may disagree of course, or even know of another system (or good source of block connectors).

 

Definitely some fuses, and I carry a small wad of rolled up aluminum foil.

 

Same thing has happened to mine. I started tapping various electrical connections and noticed when I tapped the relay under the gas tank it started working again then when I stopped it would do it again but only on one side.

Going to try and diagnose it properly over the next few days.

 

Let me know what you find out, Ben.