Idle issues?

I have a 1985 xj700 maxim x that I just recently purchased with 13k original miles. It is my first street bike and I am absolutely loving it. I would like to know more about the bike and thus joined here. I have two questions...

1. My bike idles very low. It will die at lights if I do not keep lightly revving the engine. The rpms drop to less than 500 rpm and then it dies. it fires right back up.. But it would be nice to not stress about it dying all the time. I read there is an idle speed rpm screw I can adjust? Being new to this... an idiot proof description of how and where would be a blessing!

2. This one is not as big of a deal to me. It seems that when I really get on the bike (like getting on the highway) and push the rpms up to over 6 it is harder to shift then when cruising at lower speeds. Is that normal? Maybe my shoes aren't helping either. Soft leather tops. Not steel toed.

Hopefully I posted this correctly in the right place. Please feel free to point me in the right direction if I'm wrong.

The original owner had put $1300.00 into having the carbs completely taken care of at a local yamaha dealer. So i doubt they're the issue.

2 other simple questions.

1. He only used premium fuel (91 octane of higher) is that what you guys recommend?

2. He also used "Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment" with every fill up. Is that needed?
-Ryan

 

I have a similar bike.
1985 Xj700N

1. My idle screw is between the two middle carbs, towards the back of the bike, right next to the carb bowls, you can reach it with your hand with the bike running. Set it to 1,000.

2. That doesn't sound normal. I doubt shoes are much of an issue. Mine has 30k miles and shifts pretty well. Perhaps its your technique. And check your oil type and level.

1. I use 91 because of the high performance engine. I sure most people would agree.

2. I don't use fuel treatment at all. In any of my vehicles. I believe its a gimmick.

 

I'm going to try the idle adjust when I get off work here in an hour or two.

I'll check the oil when I'm home. It makes it a little less enjoyable to be honest. At moderate acceleration its fine. But when I really hit it I have to kick it up harder and sometimes it just goes into neutral. I've only really got on it going from 1st to 2nd. Would low oil make it harder?

and technique could you explain a little more? I'm fairly new and always willing to learn. So maybe its as simple as rider error.

And good to know. I hadn't been using any additives.

I appreciate the help man.

 

$1300?!?!? My local guy is as good as they come, and for full cleaning, tuning, everything, labor is $350 and his work is guaranteed. $1000 in parts is ridiculous, you could have new pieces machined at that price.

And with PO putting in additive every time... Sounds like he was a sucker, but at least he had the bike taken care of.

Your shifting error... I'm confused. Are you shifting up at 6000rpms on 1st and 2nd and having trouble? "harder to shift"? Your shoes aren't the problem, I ride in hiking shoes that have a mesh top and don't give a second thought. Are you pulling in the clutch to shift? Second gear is usually the first to go on a motorcycle transmission, people accelerate and then slam into second, making it harder to catch, but not physically more difficult to lift the shifter with your toe...

Find a motorcycle knowledgeable person and have them take it for a ride around the block and get some feedback/description of problem from them, I guess, and come back on that one, unless someone else here sees something I don't.

 

The 1300 was for more than just carbs but it was also at a dealership so I know he got taken a little.

Yeah I'm using the clutch. When I'm just normal cruising (shifting up at like 4-5 k its fine shifts perfect. But when I really get on it and shift into second around 7-9k It is significantly harder. I Have to kick up harder otherwise it goes into neutral. (I know neutral is inbetween the two...) But I have to use extra force to shift up than normal. Maybe I should take it somewhere to get looked at?

 

The oil may or may not have something to do with it. The clutch and gear bathe in it, so it may be worth while to look at the level and cleanliness.

I agree with fintip, getting feedback from someone else would be worthwhile.

On the other hand, give clutchless shifting a try. Maybe the bike prefers quicker shifts at higher rpms.

 

Clutch less shifting? I've heard the term but dont know how to do it...


Could it have anything to do with that I'm letting off the throttle into second Like I'm climbing fast through 1st then shift into second and stop accelerating? Maybe that is too abrupt of a change?

I'll try to keep on it in second some and see if that helps.

 

It's hard to say.

Check out this video. And notice how quick he shifts at high rpm.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7X08zELY-lo
In addition, he isn't using the clutch.
Just roll off - shift - roll on. In one quick motion.

-Tom

 

Something to keep in mind is that today's mechanics know little when it comes to bikes that are 30 years old. I had to tell a Yamaha Mechanic how to sync the carbs using a YICS tool. Then when I got the bike back home I had to redo it myself anyway. These older bikes are way different than the bikes of today so you need to learn a lot in order to keep your ride running. It is very easy to reset your idle up a little higher however, if it doesn't seam to run right, this wouldn't surprise me. The guy that cleaned the carbs probably didn't do it correctly, or the sync, or the colortune. You either need to learn to do it yourself or find someone that actually knows how to work on these older bikes. You only want to use premium non-ethanol fuel if you can find it.

 

Thanks for the help guys. And old biker dude good to know.

I want to learn and it appears to be something that I need to just kind of jump into. There doesn't really appear to be an "easy" starting point.

I bought an original manual and repair manual and am going to start there.

After messing with the idle I think I'll go through the brakes.

 

Good news boys! Got it all warmed up. adjusted the idle speed screw (a kind member posted pics of it for me on a different thread) and it hasn't died since. Idles at the correct 1050 rpm.

Not to mention it makes me want to do all my own work on it.... Something about the pride of owning a vintage bike as wonderful as this and being able to work on it myself sounds great!

 

Just gonna throw this out there, you might want to buy some appropriate gear (footwear and all other protective gear). Regardless of shifting, if you crash you're really gonna be unhappy if you shear off some toes, shatter your ankles, or worse.

I used to work with people with traumatic brain injuries (now I work with kids from birth to 36 months), and it's never a pretty sight to see a guy after a motorcycle accident who didn't wear good gear.

Not trying to be pushy about it, just saying.

 

I have a perforated leather type jacket with armored elbows, back, and shoulders. As well as a shoei helmet. What would you recommend footing wise?

I Wear all the gear I have regardless of the weather. Had a close friend wreck a gsxr 1000 at over 100mph. His gear saved his life.

I'd rather sweat a little and have it when I need it then be getting skin grafts.

 

Welcome to the site !!
Here's a partial check-list of where to start -


* Get a Service, Shop manual
* Rear Brake Delam / Tire Date Code check (see my sig)
* Valve lash check / adjusted
* Compression check to verify you have a "motor"
* Running sync/ColorTune tune-up
* Brake bleed, and any needed work
* Go thru manual and do ALL scheduled maintenance, like it's never been done

Your clutch may need a fine-adjustment, follow the link -
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=3 ... vious.html

Due to how fragile 2nd gear is, and the fact that riding season just started, I suggest saving the "clutchless shifting" for later.

I lengthened my clutch throwout arm by 10MM and lube using the "drip" method and have such a perfect, buttery clutch feel.
Get creative with a plastic bag and duct tape, disconnect the clutch at the lever, bag-up an OZ of motor oil, and let it drip thru overnite.

If you're new to riding, you'd get alot out of a MSF Riding Lesson.

 

Can you recommend a place to get the manuals? I want to make sure I have the best ones.

I've hear about rearbrake delam. Is there a good thread on how to replace brakes? or just try and go off my manual? Tires are new.

The bike runs well now... I don't want to mess it up trying to do things it doesnt need. But I also want it reliable and safe to ride. I want to learn to work on it and don't want to get overwhelmed and just take it to a shop...The carbs and valves were already redone last year so I think that should still be good. The PO road the bike pretty close to year round.

 

Personally, I go for having my entire body covered, gloves, boots, pants, jacket, full face helmet (or an oversuit with gloves, boots and a helmet). I also go with spending the money for good gear, both for comfort as well as for protection. Honestly, I probably have more money invested in gear than my XJ. But then I come from a dirt and enduro racing background and have experienced a lot of crashes. When I was a kid we always thought of gear as the stuff that let you crash more than once.

Keep in mind that every time leather gets wet and dries it can lose up to 20% of it's protective ability. A few year old leather jacket worn in all weather may not be truly protective anymore. Also keep in mind that leather has to be reasonably tight, a fold in the leather drastically reduces the protective strength. Nothing against leather, it's great stuff, just make sure you approach any gear with knowledge about how it works and, especially, how it fails.

 

Oops my bad. Was re reading my post. my jacket isn't leather. Its a racing jacket that is like a perforated material 90% the strength of LEATHER. But it can get wet (however I'll never ride in the rain). My jacket is pretty close to skin tight.

I can post the model/name of it when I get off work tonight.

Do you wear full like up the shin racing boots? I do need to get some gloves... I'm a musician and having my hands messed up would be a problem.

 

As long as you're comfortable with the protection it offers, go with it. I'm no expert on models, I pretty much just did enough research to learn what I needed. I use shorter boots which cover the ankles but not full shins, part of that is due to needing boots which are appropriate for work (I get in and out of my gear about 10 times per day, since I put it on between each home visit I do) and part of that is because I chose gear which offers good protection.

If I were on dirt, I'd want more shin coverage. Mostly for rocks, brush, tree limbs, etc., though, and less for crash protection. Keep in mind the last time I suited up for real dirt riding was about 25 years ago, though, so I'm guessing stuff has changed since then. Back then I didn't really trust the plastic to do much for a crash (and I was right not to trust it, considering the amount of busted up parts of me from various crashes), but I bet it's better stuff now.

 

If you depend on your hands like that, buy full cuff racing gloves. They are well armored in the knuckles, and stitched together well with quality leather to hold up in an accident. Easily worth the $100 or more you'll spend on them.

Hit up motorcyclegear.com and look for boots. Lots of good user reviews, and they usually buy things that are "out of style" but still new and very capable. I'd get something that's at least half shin, it'll support your ankle and foot when your toe touches the road and your foot is still on the peg (happened in my accident). Plus, they have skid plates in important places.

For rain, buy some rain gear. I ride with a leather jacket and gloves, and I cover EVERYTHING in rain gear when it rains. Cheap rain gear will go a long way to keeping you and your gear dry, and keeping you focused on the road.

Does your bike lurch at stops? Maybe you need to adjust your clutch

 

This is probably wiser to do than using the ankle covering boots I use. Making me rethink it too.