Rebuilding My Clutch Next Weekend!

Hey Guys!
In December, I got my first motorcycle! It is a 1982 Maxim XJ 750J! It is great to ride! So far I have done timing, rear break shoes, front break pads, bled the brakes, air filter, oil filter, oil, battery and plugs! And man, she sure does run fine now that Ohio is staring to let go of cold winter weather! And I am so Happy, especially because I got the bike for $800!

Anyways, After putting a few hundred miles on it, I have diagnosed that the clutch slips! Which can be a buzz kill! I told my dad that I wanted to rebuild the clutch, and he called me an adventurous mechanic! Especially only being seventeen! I have done my homework, I have looked at some how to's on this website, and I also have a service manual for the bike! Seeing and Doing are two completely different things! So what advice do you guys give me? Has it been any trouble for you guys? I'm just happy, I don't even need to worry about a clutch boss spring! My parts are ordered and will be here soon, and I'm doing the rebuild next weekend, so I can get back down the road!

 

Since you've already done the oil change, just put the bike on the side stand. You can take the cover off without losing much, if any, oil.

You will want a new liter of motorcycle oil to soak the clutch plates in prior to assembly.

Make sure you use a torque wrench. 7.2ft-lbs on the spring bolts as well as the cover bolts.

 

To undo the M6 screws (M10 heads) the hold the clutch basket together you will need to use a 10mm ring spanner or socket. Rather than just grab the tool and turn, tap the end of the spanner with a small hammer or fairly heavy object. Just tap repeatedly as it's better to 'shock' the threads loose with little taps than risk shearing the head off. It also means that if you have the bike in gear and on the sidestand that you won't drag the bike backwards ;-) .

You don't need to take the basket itself off if the problem is only a slipping clutch. (I presume that you're changing the springs as well.) You do want to look at the blades of the basket to make sure that the plates have not made grooves in them (at least, not deep ones). If they have then the plates will not move smoothly and the clutch may drag, even with new parts. Those with money would recommend replacing the basket if it's worn, those without would file the blades flat, with a damp cloth behind to catch the filings to keep them out of the engine.

Some clutches came with a balance ring that was supposed to help the balance and keep it quiet. I never understood how it was meant to work and if the replacement clutch has all the friction plates the same size then you can dispense with it. If anyone is sure which balance point/punch mark goes where I'd be interested to hear, especially if they have found that it makes any difference...

EDIT: If you lean the bike right over onto something soft (as sidestands vary), then consider partially emptying the petrol tank and removing the battery to avoid spillage. On your bike that might be less important than others as I don't know what flavour of battery you have fitted - on an AGM of gel battery it would not matter if it was tipped, but for a lead-acid one it would depend on where the overflow pipe was.

 

That sounds like pretty good advice! And I will dredge the plates in oil! I will check the basket, I sure hope that it doesn't need replaced!

I am doing an overhaul on it, I am doing a 1,000 mile trip in a few months, so everything needs to be sound! I'm doing friction plates (aftermarket), plane plates (aftermarket), pressure plate (OEM), gasket (aftermarket), Springs (aftermarket), and flange bolts w/ washers (OEM)! I'm really excited!

 

The dots do have to be lined up, as another member found out over the weekend. If the dots don't line up, the clutch will not work properly, if at all.

As long as you are putting the side stand on something solid so the bike doesn't tip, you should have no problems with spillage.

BTW, How old are the front brake lines?

 

Before doing all this work, you say that you changed the oil and then determined that the clutch slips - what kind of oil did you use ? car oil or m/c oil ? if you used regular car oil (most of which comes with additives that can make the clutch slip) this might be the source of your problem.

Search for this topic, there are a lot of reports on this.

 

Yes, I saw in the book that the dot on the pressure plate has to line up! Are there any other dots that that one? And I'm not exactly sure about the brake lines! My dad has a 96 virago 750, and his bike has much more stopping power compared to mine, and the point at which the brake lever becomes hard to pull is much sooner than mine! I didn't have any better luck after bleeding my brakes! Think this could be the issue?

@brtsvg, I used motorcycle oil, and the correct weight! I forget what it was, 20 40 I think! I checked before I did my oil change!

 

Check the date code on the lines. If they are original then they definitely need to be replaced. Originals were only good for four years. You could pop a line and lose your brakes, as well as traction if the fluid gets on the tires.

Replace them with stainless steel lines and your brakes will be better than new.