Having some clutch issues i suspect...then again maybe not

i guess i'll just get right to the point. This is with the bike not running and no oil in the crankcase, i'm not sure if that will cause what is happening or not. I shift it into first, sqeeze the clutch lever in and try to roll the bike but the rear tire locks up like it is still in gear. Even with the bike off when it is in gear and the clutch is disengaged it should roll relatively freely correct? i've had the clutch plates and basket out of the engine and reassembled the plates in alternating order fiber steel fiber steel, but i noticed the notches or bumps on the steel plates and am not sure if i oriented those in the right direction when i put them back. Any suggestions would be awesome! Thanks a lot!

 

It rolls in neutral? Sorry, have to ask the most basic questions first.

 

Those tabs on the steel plates go at 72-degree (1/5 of a circle) angles to each other; that's important.

It's also very important to line up the dot on the pressure plate with the dot on the hub; or the clutch can jam up.

This is a WET clutch; you should have dredged all the parts in oil prior to reassembly; don't try to "test" it dry.

All of that is covered in full detail and living color here: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29541.html Please read it carefully.

 

yes it does roll in neutral. I'll pull the plates tonight, inspect them and make sure they're all in the correct order and orientation when i put them back and see if that changes anything. I'll let you know what happens. Thanks guys

 

Not my thread, but thanks Fitz...this will save a redo in the near future.

 

i pulled the plates inspected, cleaned and oiled them all and put them back in the correct order, however the clutch still won't fully disengage allowing the bike to roll in gear. i've been reading on the site and saw someone had a similar problem. When i pulled the clutch cover off and put it back on, i never fully removed or adjusted the arm that pulls the clutch "pushrod" i will adjust it per the instructions and see if that does the trick.

 

i adjusted the arm so there is no play, but still no luck. the cable moves a good half inch and i can see through the oil fill hole that the clutch is moving with it all the way. the bike will roll in neutral, but won't go anywhere in gear with the clutch disengaged. i'm not sure what to think at this point

 

And you were sure to align the dot cast into the pressure plate with the dot on the hub?

What about the "clutch boss spring" and its special friction plate? Did that all go back together correctly?

We've had two people have this problem recently; the guy with the 550 had his clutch boss spring in the wrong place; the guy with the 750 hadn't aligned the dots.

Did you adjust the arm exactly as described in my article? So that when preloaded it's at the rear of the cast-in "indicator" on the case?

When you had it apart, what shape were the basket and hub in, "divot" wise? I'm talking about the "wear marks" from the plates.

Did you replace the friction plates?

 

The dots are aligned and the boss spring went in with the larger id friction plate third from the outside which i believe is correct according to the write up. i did adjust the arm so there was no play in it. i pulled the arm off of the splined rod that connects with the splined throwout piece, rotated the rod clockwise untill it stopped and then place the arm back on the rod in the best "starting position" where it would be if the clutch lever was fully released. i don't see a cast mark on my clutch cover, however the arm looks like it is lined up exactly as yours is in the picture on your write up. I have NOT replaced the friction plates or the steel plates. The marks on the basket where the "teeth" on the steel plates ride are clearly visible and seem to be indented slightly. Also the "teeth" on my steel plates look rounded to me where as yours seem to be more squared off. i'm guessing i should probably replace them? the bike has just over 12000 miles but i suppose that doesn't mean the plates don't need to be replaced. Perhaps i should buy a new clutch pack and try again?

 

If either the clutch hub or basket are worn enough to feel indentations where the plates ride, they may need to be replaced. You can use a stone to polish out minor "divots" but if they're very deep at all then you need to replace the parts. The 550 clutch was common to the 600s as well, so low-mileage parts are easy enough to find, and not expensive.

If your steel plates have obviously "mushroomed" teeth, then they need to be replaced.

At the very least, you need to replace the friction plates and springs, simply due to age.

 

sounds like a plan to me. i am planning on riding the bike quite a bit once its done, so im sure the right thing to do is replace everything. i suppose i will just spend the money to replace the whole assembly and go from there. I will get to work in the next few weeks and let you know what happens. Thanks much