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Newbie with a question.

Discussion in 'Hangout Lounge' started by xjugsyx, Apr 18, 2012.

  1. xjugsyx

    xjugsyx New Member

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    Hey guys, new to the forum and have a simple (stupid) quick question. I just bought an 82' xj550 and I'm replacing the valve cover gasket. Got the new gasket, new dougnuts, and some silicone sealant. I'm pretty new to working on bikes but I have some general mechanic experience and from what Ive read this gasket should be very simple for me to replace. My stupid problem is I'm stuck on getting the gas tank off.. hah. I have the seat and everything stripped off and see the main bolt thats holding the tank down, but it seems like a plate to me, could anyone point me in the right direction with this? thanks!
     
  2. fakeplay

    fakeplay Member

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    Take the bolt out then pull up and then back towards the rear of the bike.
    Thats the way my 750 works. And get a manual if you don't have one
     
  3. Orange-n-Black

    Orange-n-Black Well-Known Member

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    Don't need sealant with rubber gaskets.
     
  4. MercuryMan

    MercuryMan Active Member

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    I have an '81 XJ550 which has a small bolt (12mm I think)holding down the tank at the rear, then it slips onto two round mounts up front on the frame-so as said once the bolt is out gently lift and pull backwards-after unhooking the gas line.

    When you remove the valve cover you have to be careful to maneuver it over the cam chain, and you are planning on checking your valve clearances while your in there, right?

    You can attach the gasket to the cover with a gasket adhesive and just oil the other side before buttoning up-you will be back in there eventually.

    You should read the FAQ technical write-up on here that Bigfitz put together for valve adjustments-he used a 550 as the model bike for the write-up. It is not much harder than changing your oil-and mucho important with such small high revving engines as our 550's.

    Welcome to the XJ wrenching world!

    http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html
     
  5. tumbleweed_biff

    tumbleweed_biff Active Member

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    Echo the valve clearance check. This is something which is supposed to be done every 5000 miles and is often neglected. It is more difficult than an oil change though.

    Also, immediately perform a visual check of the rear drum brake pad. If it is not obviously new(er) then replace the pads before you drive much further. The rear brake pads can delaminate - detach themselves - from the plate on which they are attached. If this happens while you are riding ... be happy if all that happens is you take a nice slide down the road.

    A few other safety tips to address right away: checking the brake system over all and specifically the date on the front brake hoses. If they are more than six years old, replace them ASAP. They are only designed to last 4 years. If you have to replace them, consider purchasing the stainless steel lines from Chacal, our resident parts supplier. His prices are usually at worst, competitive with any other product on the market. For the stainless steel brake lines, he is apparently the only one out there selling lines that are fully tested and approved (DOT) as a unit, where others have compontents which are dot approved The stainless steel lines cost 25%-50% more than rubber, but they last more than twice as long.

    Make certain the fuse box has been upgraded. If the fuse box consists of a supply of glass fuses, you want to get rid of it and replace it with a fuse box using blade fuses like your car. Those old glass fuses can wiggle right out of place and leave you with a "dead" bike at the most inopportune moments.

    Add an inline gas filter if the bike does not already have one.

    And always remember, be the bunny.
    Grab a seat, a cup of coffee and join in! Welcome.
     
  6. Metal_Bob

    Metal_Bob Active Member

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    If you haven't gotten the tank off yet, be sure to disconnect the fuel line and vacuum line on the petcock.

    Then SIT on the bike and pull up and forward on the tank. Don't let go and don't leave it partially set on the bike and walk away. Gravity sucks. I know...
     
  7. xjugsyx

    xjugsyx New Member

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    Thanks for all the helpful posts so far guys, I got the tank off and I'm gonna take off the valve cover tomorrow after work. The back brake and chain are both new, havent checked the break tubes yet though. I looked over the valve clearance check and it seems a little risky and requires some new tools to be added to my arsenal, so I don't know how comfortable I am with doing that just yet. I've only had the bike a few weeks and its my first one so I don't want to mess something up that I couldn't fix without loads of labor cost haha. Quick question about when I'm installing the new gasket though; Someone said not to use silicone sealant but a few friends of mine have said to put it around all four shoulder bends because they tend to be the "problem" area when a leak occurs, any insight to the good and bad of this? Also when I was reading the valve clearance adjustment link you sent me to he used some kind of red liquid super clue on the cover to attach the gasket, is that something I should do as well? Or would I be fine without it? I want to take every extra step necessary when sealing this thing down so I don't have and premature leaks and just have to pull it off right away again. Thanks again guys!
     
  8. tumbleweed_biff

    tumbleweed_biff Active Member

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    You only need to "attach" it to one side. It is a rubber gasket so does not need sealant on both sides.
     
  9. Maxim-X

    Maxim-X Well-Known Member

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    ...and if you don't have the manual yet don't not tighten the living b'jesus out of the valve cover bolts. Sometimes it may feel like they are hard to break loose, but don't take it that they need to be "Really" tight when they go back on. Check the torque values and get a torque wrench.
    As far as not being comfortable doing the valves and thinking it will cost you money, well if you leave them alone it could cost you a whole lot more.
    Keep letting us know how it's going and post some pics if you can, we'll help however we can.
     
  10. tumbleweed_biff

    tumbleweed_biff Active Member

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    And it will cost less to buy the tools to do it yourself forever than it would cost for 1 hour of shop labor.
     
  11. xjugsyx

    xjugsyx New Member

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    Can I get a torque wrench that will work with the hex bolts on the cover? I've only seen them for bolts and such. My concern with doing the valve adjustments is all the other things I'll have to do after, like adjust the carbs and so forth... Like I said, I have some general mechanic knowledge but I don't have hardly any extensive knowledge. It seems almost overwhelming and that I'd never get her back together and be able to ride her again haha.
     
  12. xjugsyx

    xjugsyx New Member

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    Oh, forgot to say I did buy the manual for the xj550 on CD off ebay a little while back. So I have that to kinda aid my way, wish I would have gone with clymer so I could have had some more visual help though :/
     
  13. tumbleweed_biff

    tumbleweed_biff Active Member

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    The torque wrench will take whatever 3/8 (or 1/4 or 1/2) sockets you have, so, if you have some sockets with hex bits, you are all set. Otherwise, I hope you have a Harbor Freight near by to get some ... they are very handy. Note the toque values you are going to need. You may need both a 1/4 and 3/8 in torque wrench as the 1/4 will often go down to inch/pounds and the 3/8 will go up from a few foot/lbs. Again, if a Harbor Freight is close, you can probably get everything you need for under the cost of an hour of shop labor, and doing it yourself is very rewarding, at least it is for me.
     
  14. Maxim-X

    Maxim-X Well-Known Member

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    You may want to put your location up, you never know Fitz might just live around the corner from you.
    You don't have to give your address, but city, State would do.
    Just look under the names of a few people that have replied, you'll see what I mean.
     
  15. xjugsyx

    xjugsyx New Member

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    I'm located in Minneapolis, MN. So after reading how important the valve clearance is to check I think I might just have to go ball to the wall and try and adjust them... If theres anyone in my area with good experience at this I'd be willing to throw some bones your way if you came over and helped me adjust the valves this week!
     
  16. Kaya

    Kaya Member

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    It is seriously not as hard as one might think.

    There are excellent Bigfitz tutorials, a tool specifically designed for it, and a TON of help if you should need it.

    http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html

    -Kaya
     
  17. wwj750

    wwj750 Member

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    Hey-whereabouts in Mpls are you at? Im about 30 miles north & may be able to ride over sometime. I'm pretty busy but PM me maybe we can work something out.
     
  18. MercuryMan

    MercuryMan Active Member

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    Just to check your valves is easy and once the cover(s) are open you only need some feeler gauges and a 19mm wrench to turn the crank. I had previously done valves on several cars and thought the XJ would be tricky also-I was wrong as it wasn't very hard to do. The hardest part for me was getting one paticular shim out that didn't want to budge. After finally getting it out I could tell that it had been there a long time as the number indicating it's size was worn off. Your engine will be forever grateful for the adjustment, and you will need to become familiar with your carbs anyway.

    Owning an old bike like these only leaves you two options-1)get the tools and do the work yourself, 2)Shell out tons of cash and hope that the guy your financing actually has a clue about how to work on a 30 year old bike (usually they dont). Take option 1 and come here often to get advice and maybe even direct help from someone nearby.

    I made a tool to help me with extracting the shims - pretty easy to do here's a link showing it-scroll down to the end.

    http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=1 ... rt=30.html
     
  19. Rhettb3

    Rhettb3 Member

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    I'm about thirty miles south, maybe we could all meet up and chat, I don't have an airhead, but I'd wouldn't mind seeing it done...
     
  20. Maxim-X

    Maxim-X Well-Known Member

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    Welllllllllll..................
    "That was"
    [​IMG]
    :D :D :D :D :D
     
  21. xjugsyx

    xjugsyx New Member

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    Wow I really apreciate all the support guys, I'll be PMing you tonight to see if we can work something out! I already have the new gasket on but havnt sealed down the valve cover yet because I really wanted to check the clearances now that everyone is saying that its so important. One thing I did have another quick question about is on the new gasket on the right side of the valve there are those two half inch round spots that cover the side of the valves. And on my old gasket i noticed it had little groves so that it could sit against the engine snug, but on this new one there are just rounded with no groove. Would it be fine just to maybe throw some gasket sealant or silcone gasket maker on the bottom to make it seal?
     

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