Attempting to pull shims - should it be this hard?

Hi all,

I need some help trying to adjust my shims. I can't get the dang thing out of its bucket to see what size I have installed (more on that later). I'm inexperienced, so first off, I want to make sure I'm coming to the right conclusions (82 xj650 w/ 5500 miles):

Intakes - spec: .11 - .15
#1 intake - .14
#2 intake - .165 (<< need a new shim)
#3 intake - .114 (<< this is close but still in spec--should I increase the clearance while I'm at it?)
#4 intake - .08 (<< definitely new shim)

Exhaust - spec: .16 - .2
#1 exhaust - .14 (<< new shim)
#2 exhaust - .14 (<< new shim)
#3 exhaust - .153 (<< new shim)
#4 exhaust - .127 (<< new shim)

In light of me needing to replace basically all my shims, are there any pools still going that anyone knows about? I know it was probably naive of me, but I've already dropped nearly the price I paid for the bike just trying to get it running reliably, and the wife is decidedly less than thrilled...

Anyways, and more importantly, I'm having a bitch of a time trying to get the shim out of its bucket. I'm using the insulated wire method for holding the valve open. I've spend a half hour trying to pry the first shim out, and I mean really prying while holding the bucket down, to no avail. It gets about 3 quarters of the way out and stops. I've tried every small/flat tool to pry and really put some elbow grease into it, but it's not budging. I'm worried that I'm going to do damage... is this normal? Are there any tricks to getting a really stubborn shim out?

 

I did not use the wire method, but no it is not hard to do.

Check or copy and paste the link below:

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html

 

Also,

I would call around to find a cycle shop in your area. Sometimes they let you swap out your old shims for shims of a different size. I dont think they ever go bad, so its not really like the shop is losing anything. It might not be a bad idea to pick something small up if they do it for you.

Give a little to get a little.


-Kaya

 

An update: I mostly couldn't get the shim out because I was pissed off. Taking a break to post in the forum calmed me down enough to go right back outside and pop it out. I had to kind of rock it back and forth a bit, but it eventually gave.

I should also point out that I have read all of Fitz's guides over and over. Seriously man, there's no chance in hell I could've done half the stuff I've had to do without them. You're a godsend, many thanks.

 

Finally got all the shims out and recorded. 2 questions:

1 - Should I replace my #3 intake? It's at .114, just barely in spec. Would it be worth increasing the clearance a notch to give me more longevity between shim adjustments?

2 - Can you guys read what the number is on this shim? It's rubbed off--either 260 or 265--and my gut says 265. Agree/disagree?

 

I hade some that were rubbed off like that. The only way to really know is to measure it's thickness with a set of calipers...

 

The range of 'in' adjustment is only 0.05mm, so if the clearance is right, then changing a shim will make it wrong.

I bought a micrometer for £5 years ago and just check the thickness if I can't read the size. You'll probably find another shim 260 or 265 while you're doing it, so just put one in and measure the clearance again (remember to remove the tool and turn the engine over a couple of times). That should tell you what that shim is AND what shim you actually need.

Once you have the clearances set and the engine has settled, you won't have to adjust them again for a very long time unless something is wrong. In fact, on a thoroughly run-in engine, checking the shims is checking your valves are okay rather than having to keep adjusting them - it's not like screw and locknut adjustment that needs tweaking regularly.

 

maybe your wire isn't thick enough, try folding it over and twist it up, i use the knob of a good size zip tie

 

This is true, however:

A great many of the bikes we're dealing with here have less than 20K miles on them; and for many it's the first time the clearances are being checked.

Finding 7 of 8 or 8 of 8 tight on the initial check, especially if way overdue, isn't uncommon.

They WILL need to be checked at the specified intervals, and it will take a while before they "settle in" to the point where it just becomes a matter of checking and finding no need to adjust. They're still gonna tighten up some more after the first adjustment; until, as you said, the motor is thoroughly "run in."

 

Okay, thanks for the input guys.