Clutch work 82 xj750

So my clutch has started to slip over the weekend and today. I ordered all my parts that I will need. My questions are... on a scale of 1-10 how hard is it to replace it. About how long dose it take?? And are there any specialty tools that are needed on a 82 xj750?

Any ticks or tips on how to remove or install is greatly appreciated too.

 

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29541.html
Here is a writeup by bigfitz that should help. Do you have a service manual? If not you should get one first. just curious what all parts you bought because without taking it apart and inspecting everything, how do you really know what you need?

 

No I don't have one of those. I bought oil, gasket, filter, springs and clutch but not the steel plates. Where I work there is a motorcycle shop next-door and they have the part(s) that I might need in stock.

 

Have you tried adjusting it? Here's a writeup by rick http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=2 ... cable.html. also what kind of oil is in it? These bikes have wet clutches and the type of oil can really affect clutch performance. Just a few things to check

 

The link was bad, but I just bought the bike a little over a month ago. The guy before me changed the oil before he put it away for the winter. Since then ive put on a little over 500 mile on the oil. As far as type I have no way of knowing he has past away. What do you use or perfer?

 

I use Valvoline 20w50 motorcycle oil. The brand doesn't matter tho so long as its for motorcycles. And don't use synthetic either...our clutches don't like the friction inhibitors in synthetic oil. I'd try changing the oil first. See if this link works if not do a search on clutch adjustment. http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=2 ... cable.html

 

x2 on that, make sure it's not synthetic oil thats in there.

 

Read my tutorial http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29541.html

Be aware that the 750 clutch is much simpler than the clutches specifically covered in the article; yours will not have tabs on the plain plates nor a "clutch boss spring" inside a "special friction plate." Yours just has plain plates and friction plates; but be sure to line up the dot cast into the pressure plate with the dot on the hub.

Actual disassembly/reassembly and how it all goes together are otherwise the same.

You won't need a special tool unless you're removing the hub/basket.

 

Ok thank you. I thought it might been a little pain in the a$$ if I had the tabs on there but now that I don't I feel a little better about it. Now what I take it a part how will I know my steel rings are still good? If they are burnt or? It's my first time doing changing this kind of thing out.

 

If the steel plates are "burnt" that much will be obvious; they turn blue/purple.

You lay the steel plates on a sheet of glass (or a mirror) and check to be sure they aren't warped.

If they aren't burnt blue or warped, they should be fine. They will likely have "deposits" on them from the original friction plates; but those should clean up nicely with Scotchbrite.