One part at a time... with great results so far.

So, The bike is coming along swimmingly. The starter works, the engine freely moves but obviously doesn't start without fuel, but super easy movement. I'm getting the front tire put on tomorrow morning, taking the front fender off and getting it sandblasted, and then all that's left is fuel filter, oil change and one simple thing that seems to be missing, or i'm unable to find a good picture as to where it would be located, after some googling i've seen what to look for in the morning, but is there anyone who has a photo of their Starter Solenoid in it's native location? The start button and switch test out perfectly grounded and working, the starter works when jumped, so everything inbetween seems like a solenoid that needed to be replaced and thusly the bike wasn't started for 3 odd years.

The carbs are fully cleaned out, moving freely and attached back onto the cleaned and rubber rejuv'd mounts, sealed up and looking nice. They will be bench tested and filled up to test before major running, but I expect they're going to be easy to calibrate with my yics tool, thanks to the right people.

The clutch while trying to be used is tough to pull. My friend has experience with them, are there any tips (considering that I do have the clutch guide bookmarked and ready to go when we do dig in) that we should be aware about? Should I polish the exterior parts while they're off, or not do that until it's back on again?

In regards to the paint scheme and such, I feel like I'm going to make the tank solid black, and I want to fill in the yamaha badge holders. Should I just used bondo? Don't feel bad about the tank, it needs to be replaced in a couple years, but right now I'm concerned with getting it running.

Front brakes need to be tested, bled and cleaned, back brakes work with initial testing at walking speed, but will be examined by a professional in the first few weeks of operation.

I want to thank all the people who've helped me so far even if I've said i'll do it the easy way, I start doing it and the right way (ie yours) starts happening. It's been a lesson in patience, which I hope for my first motorcycle keeps me from doing stupid things with it.

Money Spent So Far:

Cleaning Supplies, Paint and Such : $100 (and climbing)
Tools (Yics: II think I paid $120, but I could be wrong, but it was a great deal and is amazing to look at so far)
Tire: (Donated by my best friend in an act of motorcycle godliness) (Installation: $40)
Bike Cost: $500

I think I've done alright so far. Photos when it's worth it.

 

STOP RIGHT THERE.

Read this: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html

"back brakes work with initial testing at walking speed, but will be examined by a professional in the first few weeks of operation. "

WRONG. The rear needs to be visually examined, BEFORE ANY "operation" lest you land on your butt in the interim. Seriously.

You're going to need to do a whole lot more to the bike to make it safe and reliable. It will need the front brakes rebuilt-- new caliper and master cylinder seals, pads, and LINES. You can't just ride around on 30 year old brakes and hope for the best, it can get you killed.

You need a MANUAL.

Then you need to go through the maintenance section, step by step leaving nothing out.

VALVE CLEARANCES FIRST.

Then pull the carbs back off, properly wet-set the float levels and do a bench sync. On the bench, not on the bike, that's why we call it that. You'll need your YICS blocking tool and some form of manometer to perform the running vacuum sync; but not until the valves are in spec.

The way you're approaching this right now is only going to result in continued frustration. The only good thing about this is that the bike is going to keep you from riding it very much; if you try to put 30-year old stuff back in service it usually fails almost immediately. Ignore the front brake advice and within about 200 miles of service it's going to start dragging. If you're lucky it won't lock outright on you, or pop a line.

In regard to the clutch, you might start by lubricating the cable; do NOT use WD40.

Polish the cases while they're off, since you'll need to use Aircraft Paint Remover to get rid of the old clear coat first and that stuff is harsh.

I don't mean to pee in your cornflakes here, but you're NOT going to get away as cheaply as you think. The bike won't let you, trust me. Plan on a total outlay of around $600~$800 minimum, for parts, before it will be safe and reliable.

It CAN be done; but you have to do it right or it will frustrate the bejabbers out of you. It's up to you if you end up joining the "I've cleaned my carbs 5 times" club.

Read this: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=24010.html

Mikuni breakdown: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=31061.html

Valve adjustment: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html
Part Deux: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29209.html

Tach drive oil seals: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=19538.html

PM me with an email address and I'll send you the full set of cable routing diagrams for the 550 Secas.

In this diagram, the solenoid is referred to as the "starter switch." It hangs in a molded rubber ring mount that slips onto a tab protruding rearward from the top rear edge of the battery box.

 

Well, I guess the internet doesn't really convey how much I really am taking this step by step, following most of this advice which I've already read and have processed into a timeline. You didn't know that, my post may have come off as naive, but I do agree with you wholeheartedly, infact my next step is to work on my front and rear brakes, and what I meant by operation was once it's running, it has already been examined and cleaned and parts replaced; it will then be seen by a professional inspector to make sure it's safe and able to be registered in my province. After the bike is running, my first trip is around my block. I'm not starting it up and going on a road trip immediately. I've got a lot more work ahead of me than it may have seemed, however I am excited that a lot of this bike has been maintained really well, with no evidence of it being dropped, misused, or abused (other than the horrible paint job) it was painted bright orange, so odds are it was a farm bike (happens in Alberta at least) and maintained by somebody good, because other than the starter not working, and the gas tank having been sealed (which I believe is the reason they stopped using the bike), the bike is in great condition. Now, don't get me wrong, I appreciate the advice, which is to be expected with the passion you have for safety and these bikes and their riders. So, please accept my naivety, and know that your words are heeded and I have several pairs of eyes watching my every step, and all of those eyes have been working on automobiles and bikes for more years than I have been alive, and this is my run at the mechanics game, so they truly do want me to live and survive this experience as well.

We followed the carb cleaning guide, and brakes are the next thing on the list, then i'll check the valve clearances and then bench set the carbs, but I really want to get the electrical sorted before the mechanical, but that's just who I am. What should I use for clutch lube, or when I get the parts will it come with the right stuff?

Also, just got the bike back with the front tire on. Rolls like a dream, looks great. Dunlop D440.