Dead Battery

So, this was a little unexpected.

My daughter rode the Seca to work the other day and because the bike was in the parking lot, she locked the steering unknowingly turning the ignition too far activating the tail light.

By the time she got off work, the battery was dead.

Upon inspection, I realized that the settings for locked and to turn on the park-safety lights are extremely close together, which is not cool.

Is there anything I should do to help avoid this problem in the future? She can't be the first person this has happened to.

 

About the only thing you can do is have her learn from her mistake, just like the rest of us have :lol:

 

I was thinking of installing an LED indicator light, but have a hard time deciding how to install it so it just turns on with the key in the P position, rather that being on whenever the taillight is on.

My son's Virago has the same problem, his solution is to just never lock the steering. I'd rather figure out a solution than have both bikes ripe for the taking.

Maybe I need to pour over the wiring diagrams and run some tests.

 

Have you ever had need to just turn on the running lights? Consider disconnecting the wire for the lights in the ignition switch. Never done it but it should be possible.

 

I thought about that too, but always wonder what-if?

I also thought about putting a secondary toggle switch on the park wire so when the key was in Park, the rider would also need to throw the switch to make the lights come on.

Maybe I am making this too complicated, but this whole park function, and the switch position kinda seem like bad engineering. Having a dead battery on a bike is not fun, especially at night, after work, when everyone else has gone home.

 

I'll go with tskaz.

 

Ya, the suggestion made by tskaz seems like a fantastic suggestion until you are driving downtown to rescue your college-age daughter from a parking lot at 1:00 am after she is done with clinicals at the psychiatric ward of the state hospital.

Yup, "have her learn from her mistake, just like the rest of us have" is a WONDERFUL solution. I'm glad I'm not your daughter. . .

How about some ideas for a REAL solution?

 

In all seriousness is does suck that this happened but learning from your mistakes is a 'REAL solution. I would hope that you showed you daughter that one 'click' locks the forks and two 'clicks' locks the forks and turns on the parking light. From this moment on she should know to check that.

Of course there are going to be ways to hook up some sort of 'reminder light' or just disable the light from the switch entirely. It just depends on how in depth you want to go.

We're not 'busting you chops' but you do need to be able to have a bit of a sense of humor about things like this. I realize that this was probably scary for you daughter to be without a functioning bike at 1 AM but looking back everything turned out OK and everyone is a bit wiser.

 

Personally, I did it one time and that was all it took. I hadn't been aware of this little user entertainment feature and used it accidentally. From then on, I have always made a conscious check of how far I turn the key ...

Here is a suggestion:
Go to www.superbrightleds.com and purchase their replacement taillight bulb.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/ ... -turn.html

1156-r19 consumes 93 mA as opposed to the standard 1156 pulling 2.1 amps, or 4.42% of the power. That is for the 19 LED model. The 30 LED model (1156-r30) pulls 105mA, or roughly 1/20th the power. (These numbers obviously depend upon my limited knowledge of electricity and should be verified ...) This should result in being able to have these "left" on far longer than incandescents ... roughly 20 times <grin> before draining the battery ... This will also save about 2 amps of power when running, so the alternator will be better at keeping the battery charged ...

Actually, I think we need the 1157/dual intensity bulb? Go for the 30 LED 1157. Should be all you need and then some. Be sure to order the red one (same color as the lense). A whopping $8.99 plus shipping. Buy multiples and save on shipping <grin>

Combine that with one of these for additional safety (the first one should work with incandescents as handles up to 10 amps. The second only 1.5 amp so LED use only.)
FL2S-10A: Brake Light Strobe Module
LSC-100A: Brake Light Strobe Module

Alternatively, you might be able to get a locksmith to bugger the switch so it must can't get to the Parking Light position ...

OR don't lock the steering but instead carry a separate lock to lock the bike so you have to consciously act to lock the bike. Being a conscious act, it should also make one consciously check to make certain the steering is not locked and the light not on.

Finally, all riders could be trained that they must always go to the rear of the bike to check the lights to make certain it isn't on. Do it every time, no exceptions, it becomes a habit ...

 

Thanks Mike, those are some great ideas. I didn't think about LEDs to help alleviate this particular problem. I actually just bought LEDs for my Honda all the way around (except headlight), so I can run more accessories without over-working the charging system. All-in-all I should save about 250 watts or about 21 Amps.

Also, a brake rotor lock might do the trick. Having her lock the bike that way should be more secure and force the concious security effort.

This type of brainstorming is why this form is so great.

 

Knowing of the possibility, I've gotten in the habit of putting the key all the way to "P" and then bringing it back to "L" before removing it. Then a quick glance at the tail light before walking away.

However, it would probably be possible to modify the switch/lock assembly to eliminate the feature. Since the switch comes off the steering lock "module" I would think blocking that position mechanically would be the easiest.

 

I learned on mine also the hard way. But now I just make sure the light comes on then make the one click back to lock steering wheel. Like the rest said it only took once...

 

I check the light every time I take the keys out, and I've never been stranded. Seems to me that a college age person that was stranded once would be doubly sure that it didn't happen again.

You asked if there was a way to prevent it from happening again, NOT to prevent it in the first place. And that IS the best solution.

There is no good way to disable the ignition switch so that you can't turn it that far. The part you would need to block is not made of metal so adding solder or some such material is not possible.

You could probably add some sort of plastic weld or some such material, but it would degrade over time and in 3 or 4 months you would be stranded not from a dead battery, but from a gummed up ignition switch that will not operate.

This is the piece that limits the ignition switch rotation, as well as extends the steering lock

The outer 1/3 that is larger is the part that limits switch movement. If you ground this off the switch would rotate 360 degrees. You would have to add to this piece to limit the movement to the lock position.

Same piece, out of the switch



Using a toggle switch just for the parking lamp won't work either. The switch would have to be used when running at night to light the taillight also.

About the best solution so far is the warning light. Yes it would be on while riding also. Annoying but it would do the job by glancing at the light when you pulled the keys.

Of course, you could do the same to the taillight when you walk away.

 

Here is a real easy way to take care of the problem.....
I got myself a real good cable lock that I use instead of locking the steering.
Some of these are almost impossible to just bolt cut through.
I can fit mine in my little tool area behind the seat but if this doesn't work for you then you could get a tool pouch to hook up front and carry it there.
No fuss and no mess. Just lock it up like you would a bicycle.

 

A brave person or one with steady hands could probably apply a little blob of JB Weld and either put a piece of metal on it to be attached, or build simply build it up ...

With a very steady hand, or a drill press and a teensy bit, create a small hole where the thing needs to stop, stick a piece of metal in the hole and then apply the JB Weld around it ... of if really talented with fine work, make a block with a peg sticking out to go down the hole ... Nothing I could ever do, mind you, just trying to think outside the box. If one were to decide to attempt this, I would certainly get a back-up mechanism to try it with so the bike isn't out of commission in case of failure ...

 

I've never had good luck with JB on aluminium, but if you were careful where it was applied, and trimmed to fit after (hopefully) hardening, you could try to apply it :

Top pic
Post at top, above plastic, inside housing
To the RIGHT of this post

If you try it and it ends up working, let us know

BTW, that part isn't very thick, it might be a real PITA to try to put a dowel in that location.