carb installation

Took my carbs off a 85 xj700 to clean them. Now I can't get them back on. Any suggestions?

 

Use a little silicone and keep working them on.
They will go just takes a little practice.

 

i set on the bike and let the box boots get pushed against,install carbs on intake side first that works for me

 

Just did mine --same bike. Make sure the boots are pushed back into the air filter box, and start from the bottom of the intake boot. I found it easier to get one of the outside carbs on first and then the others went is easily. I didn't use silicone lubricant, but I'm sure it will help. If it makes you feel any better, I had more problem getting the boots from the air filter back on. Next time I will use silicone lubricant for sure.

 

Push intake boots well back into the intake. Line up carb #1 (left) and push it in firmly. I used a 1in x 4in x 24in board across the intakes to help give an even force once the carbs were lined up. I also soaked the airboots for 10 mins in hot water prior to fitting. the Agree with tabaka - air intake boots more fiddly...be patient.

 

Thanks for the advise. I don't have the air box boots anymore. I modified it with pod filters. I will tackle it some more tomorrow.

 

Ratchet strap around the carbs hooked to the forks if you are having a real tough time, otherwise silicon and elbow grease in liberal amounts will do the trick...

 

make sure the lever that your choke cable connects to isn't folded forward. Not sure if it's the same on your bike as on mine. I was pushing for a good ten minutes before I realized I was just pushing metal into metal.

 

Wire,, Plastic Tie or Pipe Cleaner, .... the Carb Linkage Cable-pull Atachment to the Choke Rod so it does not jamb-up under the Head.

Use a Hammer Handle to Pry the Rack.
Buy a 20 Oz Hickory Hammer Handle. Cut-off the Top where the split inserts into the Hammer Head. Shape the Cut-off end with a Sander to give it a smoothed-out Pry-bar end.
Use it instead of a Metal Bar. Nothing gets scratched.

Wipe the Inside Diameters of the Manifolds with Marvel, Armoral, Silicone Sprayed rag, Waterproof Grease, or Paste Wax.
• • • • • • • • • • •

Airbox Boots.
Make them EASY to Rotate.

The AirBox should have a pair of 10mm Bolts ... On top ... Right near the Securing Point for the Fuel Tank Bolt, ... that will let you move the Box front or back ... as needed.

Installing the Boots is made a bit easier if you:
AIR BOX HOLES:
Increase the Inside Diameters of the Boot Holes ... ever so slightly.
( Tape 320 Grit to a 6" long section of Closet Rod, ... Sand Holes )
Increase INSIDE Diameters of the 4 Holes by 47-Millionths, a whisker, or the width that's not allowed to be mentioned under Terms of Service. !!!
BOOTS:
Sand the opposing "Walls" of Locking Groove Surfaces and the Outside Diameter of the Boot.
( Glue 320 Grit to BOTH SIDES and the EDGE of a Wooden Paint Stirring Stick )
Reduce the OD
Increase the Channel Width.
Just .. enough .. to .. say-so! A few thousandths.

APPLY BABY-BUTT SMOOTH FINISH
Re-sand the whole works with 800 and 1000.
Clean.
Apply Car Paste Wax to the Box and Boot Grooves.

 

It all depends on how far you've taken the rest of the bike apart but I used a strong "broom handle" to pry them right on since using a sledge hammer handle didn't fit......but you get the idea...just be sure of what you are prying to and prying against so you don't damage anything, wiping the rubbers with F21 Super Protectant(works better than Armor-all) should have already been done(I soak mine with a wetted rag wrapped around for a couple days) but pour some around the lip to slip them on.

Everyone has "their system", and you'll develop yours too!

jeff