Repairing float pivot pin holder. (pic)

I have finally gotten my drain screws out and I am about to get my float levels correct. However, I discovered that carb #3 has a broken pivot pin holder.
No good at all! Should I try to get it welded by a professional or do you think I can patch it up with some kind of compound?
Any tips?

 

As far as I know welding aluminum, especially something as small intricate and fragile as these carbs is extremely difficult. You could try jb weld, but its gotta be clean and aligned properly.

 

J-b Weld! allright! just ordered it from ebay! No one stocks it in Sweden so ordered it from England.

 

Yes, one of those rare occasions I would recommend an epoxy product like JB weld. The part isnt a stressed item, they dont see alot of heat and the epoxy should hold up well being immersed in gasoline.

Make sure you clean and dry both surfaces well before you apply the epoxy. Anything that squishes out will need to be filed off afterwards where it might possibly interfere with the float.

 

other members here have had good results with jb stick. It doesn"t "run" and ooze like the tube stuff and you can "build it up" a LITTLE at the base for added stability to the repair.
Like I said I know other members had good luck using it on that same repair

 

Bumping this thread again.

Pulled the carbs and took a look at the repaired float since I am having trouble getting the bike running well. I then discovered that my JB-weld repair was not holding up very well.

Should I try to weld it properly of just jb-weld it again?

I just serviced the engine and the valves are also in specs.
Carbs were rebuilt last season.

I have had trouble getting the carb bowl drain screws out so that I can wet set the float levels but I have now succeeded in loosening them so I can adjust the float levels properly once I get the pivot pin holder back on track.

 

I don't know if it can be welded together. A competent welder can build up a new pillar right off the base I think.

I had an XS11 that was broken at the hole the pivot passes through. The epoxy repair someone put on had failed. The welder I use (who is very good) was not able to weld it together. What he did is build the pillar back up to its proper height. I did some shaping with a file and drilled it for the pin.

You need to locate the hole pretty carefully.

 

Broken that far down, I would try to splint it with a piece of steel. Maybe enough room to put a flat or "L" shaped piece on one or two sides and use two small flat head screws to hold it in place?

Hitachi, right? If so, that means the float bowl casting is what holds that pin in place, and there's not a lot of room side to side. Is that the case?

 

Thanks for the tip rice burner.
Seems like the jbweld is holding up semigood. Not really liking the gasoline immersion...
Will try to file it down flat and fabricate a small L shaped piece of aluminum and screw it in to place. Should be no trouble setting the float level with the clear tube method even if the pivot pin is sligthly off.

 

Yeah, I'm not surprised that JB isn't liking the full immersion. Some people have had good luck with that, but I'm not one of them. I've fixed a few of those float pins, but I've always used a mechanical means.

I don't know how much room you have on any of the sides for a splint, but that seems like it would be the easiest. It doesn't have to be overly strong because there isn't a lot of load on the structure, but you do need to make sure that the pin is aligned. You don't want the float to contact anything and stick as a result of an alignment issue.

These are hitachi's right? The pin is not pressed into the posts, but is a slip fir? Is that correct?

 

JB-Weld needs absolutely clean and de-greased surfaces to adhere to, possibly sanded or scraped also.

In use, there is almost no load on this part, but it does sit in gasoline.

 

JB will hold it but you have to introduce a non-ferrous pin.

 

Have a look at this method.
http://www.benefiscal.co.uk/forum/index ... g93395#new

Seems like a better option for a permanent repair, no more thinking "hope it holds up" or "has it gone again".

 

I don't know if you can get a drill and tap into the hitachi post without having the wall of the hole blow out during tapping.

 

Thanks for the replys fellows.
I did fix it with jb-weld last season and it had gotten all squishy over the winter so I did another fix with it. Sanded and degreased all mating surfaces.
However I will try to fabricate a small L shaped pin holder and mount it with a few small screws before going on a short bike vacation with a mate in july. Will post pics when I do.
Thanks fj111200 for the link, looks good but not quite applicable for my carb since its all busted up and filed down.

And yes, its hitachi carbs and the pivot pin is slip-fit