Should I buy this? (1981 xj750r)

First street bike. I know this is a lot of bike... But I wan t to have it for awhile before getting something bigger.. Seller wants 450.. It starts and runs, but needs carb work.

Sorry I cant upload the picture for some reason.

There is some moss on the engine,.very little, the pipes are brown xoming out of the engine, but the rest of the engine is mostly clean. Basically looks like its been outside.

 

PICS?

 

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/4724 ... peg952.jpg

 

Do you have access to a compression tester? (They are relatively cheap).

It takes about 5-10 minutes (if spark plugs not rusted to the engine and able to unplug the CDI quickly).

FULL Battery. Remove all 4 spark plugs. Unplug CDI. Screw in compression tester to LEFT-Most plug hole (#1). With FULL THROTTLE, hit and hold start button briefly 3-4 times and/or until the compression number stops moving. Repeat for #2 thru #4. Record the numbers and take mental note if the numbers increased smoothly or if very jerky.

I don't remember what GOOD number ranges are off the top of my head. Sorry.

If you do get OK-to-GOOD numbers, it could be a great buy. BUT keep in mind you'll probably spend another $600-800 to get it running SAFELY and properly. (ie tires, rear brake pad check, new front brake hoses, rebuild MC, rebuild calipers, check valve clearances and replace out-of-spec shims, THOROUGHLY clean, rebuild and sync carbs, replace stock fuse panel, and a few other normal items for these 30 year old bikes).

If you are willing to LEARN how to repair and maintain your bike, you'll probably never NEED a bigger bike.

If you took and passed your states motorcycle safety course vs. just learning how to ride by jumping on a buddies/relatives bike - I'd say there's nothing wrong with buying an xj750 as your first bike. If you respect the bike's power and learn how to pick it up properly, XJ750 and XJ1100s CAN be great 1st bikes.

If you expect to turn this bike into a crotch rocket with a few mods, keep looking for another bike.

If you think "stage #" carb kits and POD air filters equal instant bolt on HP boosts, you're in for a rude awakening and some rejetting/experimenting. (No hate for pods just saying).

If you want a bike you can learn to fix/rebuild/maintain and ENJOY riding when its safe again, you'll love an XJ!!!

 

Despite my lenthy prior post. $450 for a bike that starts with BOTH side covers, both mirrors, mini crash/highway bars, and no major damage (from that one pic) is a decent deal - Assuming they compression test goes well.

Dirt and rust can be taken care of. Chrome doesn't get you home!!! (Rebuilt braking systems, new tires and tuned carbs should - The engines are nearly bullet proof).

EDIT: I'm 99% sure that's an 82 XJ750 Seca because of the square headlights and atari unit. Not a big deal. Worry about that IF you buy it. Or just buy it to part it out. :wink:

 

Expect to do a lot of maintenance regardless of what the seller says has been done. It's an old bike and needs at least some work. Check the brake pads for delamination, check the brake lines and MC, check the fluid, valve clearance, oil and probably have to clean the carbs too. After all that, take a rider safety course and remember that a 750 can get away from you quickly.

 

Thanks for all the quick responces.
I have no plans to change the bike into a crotch rocket..
I am taking a safety course june 23/24.
I do not plan on riding before than, just doing maintence/learning how the bike works.
Also really appreciate the heads up on the year difference pointed our via the head light.
I also should have mentioned I owned a 1976 cb 500 four, but I never got it running.
Owned a mx250b 1975, and I did get that one running.
What sort of manual would you recommend? Clymer or something else?

Thanks again.

 

http://www.4shared.com/dir/1570443/a2eb ... aring.html

 

Okay.. Bought for 350.. Not running, though. Got 3 weeks

 

Welcome to the forum and best wishes Eddy! Ask lots of questions and I'll bet you'll have it running in no time. The guys on this forum are some of the finest I have met anywhere.

 

Charge/buy a battery and do compression test before sink more money and good luck plus good buy.

Doesn't need to be running just turning over for test.

 

3 weeks 4 what? It will probably take up to 2 for carbs between cleaning and ordering parts.

 

Till the safety course I think.

Good luck and welcome!!

 

Okay, had a lirtle time today to look a bit more.

The good
Tires are.new
Good compression
All ligjts work
Spark
No rusted plugs


The bad
Still not running (sounds like its not getting gas)
Front brake cable needs replaced
Throttle sticks
Fuel tank lock is severly damaged, so key wont work to open, gonna usr a screw driver tomorrow
Crank case has no oil that I can touch, no residue either, no shavings though.
Tomorrows goal is remove carbs to assess rebuild or repair.

3 weeks until I get my endorsement

 

The bad:

Still not running (sounds like its not getting gas)
• Remove Carbs for Cleaning.
• Lube Throttle Cable after Flushing with Carb Cleaner.

Front brake cable needs replaced
• Overhaul Front Brakes / Replace Lines with Stainless Wrapped Lines/ Overhaul Caliper:
New Seals
Refinish and Lube Sliding Parts

Throttle sticks
• Possibly just interference with Control too close to Grip.
• Open Handlebar Control --
• Disengage Throttle Cable
• Clean Handlebars / Refinish with 800 Sanding / Finish w/ 1000 Sanding / Apply Paste Wax and Buff.
• Clean-out Throttle Grip -- Nylon "Bottle Brush" & Carb Cleaner. Let dry.
• Clean or Replace Throttle Cable.

::: If you suspect the Wire Cable has broken and unwound, ... either get a NEW Throttle Cable.
>OR<
Bring the whole works to a High Line Bicycle Shop. A Bicycle Mechanic can MAKE you a New Cable -- while you wait, for under 20-Bucks. :::

Fuel tank lock is severly damaged, so key wont work to open, gonna usr a screw driver tomorrow.

• DON'T wreck the Cap Lock.
• Call a DEALER -- Give them your VIN -- Get Codes or Key Made!!!

Crank case has no oil that I can touch, no residue either, no shavings though.

• Place Bike on Center Stand -- Look for Oil Level in Sight Glass near Brake Pedal.

Tomorrows goal is remove carbs to assess rebuild or repair.

• Clean the Carbs. Thoroughly. Don't split them. Do Shaft Seals Off-season.

 

Thanks for the excellent quick response. I appreciate the advice.

I have the key to the tank, it wont turn the lock, it appears that some one has already forced something in there. The pins are damaged.is this something that can be easily replaced?

Do not split the carbs,? im sorry, I am not quite sure what this means inregards to cleaning. I was under the impession I would need to take them apart. does split mean something else?
Thanks again.

 

You can do a comprehensive Cleaning of the Carbs without --> splitting = separating -- the bodies from the rails.

Just Clean them without doing the Shaft Seals.
Do the Shaft Seals -- Off Season.

It might not be the Key to the Tank.
Test it in the Helmet Lock.

Try one of these:

http://www.mylockpicks.com/4-miscellane ... p-key.html

http://www.lockpickshop.com/CC77.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7m0Q6lkN-FY

 

Okay

The gas lock and the helmet lock have both been damaged, the ignition key turns both locks, but does not open.

I purchased the universal gas key.


I pulled the carbs off, they were flooded.. Very VERY flooded, which explains why the bike isn't running.

The oil level window on the crank case is black, that is to say, I can't determine if the level is stained, of if there is oil in it.


My goal tonight is to actually clean the carb.


On a side note: I am not going to put the airbox back on. I was going to, instead, put air filters directly on each individual carborator. Thoughts?

Thanks again!


Also

The amount of gas that I pulled out of the carbs.. was roughly 3/4 gallon.. they were thoughly flooded.
The key for the bike opens the key for the helmet lock, but the helmet lock won't move, maybe I have it in the wrong place.. helmet lock = Seat lock?

And! lastly, the bike sounds like it's about to turn over, just needs fuel! (since they are no carbs, no tank, or any of other way for it to get fuel.. this is great news!)

Safe/legal/running check list

Clean and reattach carbs
get air filters
Replace fuse box
Clean Gas tank (should I complely empty it, vinegar it, then rinse? or just empty and check for rust?)
Replace right side rear turn signal housing
Replace clutch spring
review and determine the state of light controls/instrument panel
rebuild/replace front break caliper/pads
examine rear break for functionality (should I have a 'real' mechanic with 'real' tools do this?)

Feel free to let me know what I'm missing. Thank you.

 

THOUGHTS:

Get the carbs cleaned CORRECTLY and rebuild and sync carbs PROPERLY before you even consider PODs. Then if all other safety/maintenance items are done enjoy the bike for the summer as-is.

There is a love/hate relationship with pods here.

If you REALLY want PODS, get the bike running PROPERLY as it was designed to (valve clearances proper with new shim and carbs rebuilt and sync'ed). Then if you still don't like the "look", do a bunch of reading here and be prepared to rejet several times until it runs nearly as good as stock. (Unless you are the 1% lucky enough to not need rejeting - or just think you don't).

I know the need/desire to ride is strong, but do the job right the first time and you won't waste all summer trying to get it running "ok".

I got REAL lucky. My P.O. apparently did take care of the bike and I went 2.5 years with doing the proper maintenance. Now I HAVE to rebuild the carbs if I want to ride again this year. Luckily my compression test was good and valve clearances are just barely out of spec on 2 valves (but I'm gonna replace them anyways - as I should).

 

After reading up on pods more, I will most likely not be going this direction.. The mods will affect the overall cost, also, it will prevent me from getting the carbs back on the back rigjt away. I will need to build a custom airbox though. Mine was cracked. I am thinking of removing the box part and going directly in a filter, will epoxy work? I am thinkong

 

I have a spare air box, air box lid and breather hose I can sell.

I'm not 100% sure it's for an 82 750 Seca, but that is what the guy was trying to build from parts bikes when I bought the truck load of parts from him...

However, you will need to remove the engine to install it! (GOOD time to degrease and maybe paint the engine! Also easier access to do valve shims (not that you have to remove engine). If you did remove engine, you will also need/want to buy header-to-engine gaskets for reinstall.





I'll check eBay prices ranges (if any exist) and/or PM me a fair offer and I could ship it out early next week. (Paypal only)

P.S. This album has misc 750 Seca parts I have for sale.
http://s835.photobucket.com/albums/zz27 ... ?start=all

 

HEY how badly is the box cracked?

I won't mean a sale for me, but is it repairable? They do make plastic epoxy now-a-days...

 

Thank you, but I will need to pass.

I have an 81 per the title and registration, but I am sure that box will fit.
I also don't want to pull the engine in season.

 

So..

I f'd up good on this one..

While trying to removed the rusted screws.. (which I managed to remove all of)

I broke the carb body on # 3.. can I use something to seal? or do I need to spot weld? or replace?

 

Not even the worst of it.. One of the float pillars is broken. I rebuilt it using jb weld..

 

Carbs are available in varying conditions on e-bay and at locale salvage yards. I would buy a replacement rack and then you will have some spare parts to boot. They can be off of a 650 or a 750. Same bodies, just different jetting.

 

Buy replacement ones, go to the Sell,Trade,Swap,Wanted section and post a Ineed or buy a set off Ebay. They can be had cheap if all you want is a body.

 

Bad news...
3 out of the 4 carbs are bad.. Beoken pilliar stuck/stripped jet.. And cracked body..

Good news...
Found a carb rack in immaculate condition, just needa to be cleaned.. 30 bucks.

 

Thirty bucks. Good deal. Did you read The Church of Clean? Make sure the enrichment jets in the float bowls are clear. They can be a real pain but they do need to be open.

 

Well.. This will need to be put on hold. 300 a week pay cut.. I have about 200 coming in.. For the bike. After pricing all filtets, caliper rebuild kits, shoes and pads, and spark plugs, I cam afford to finisj aftet the 25th. So.. Thats life. Talk to you all soon