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Seca 750 front brakes

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by JPaganel, Jun 10, 2012.

  1. JPaganel

    JPaganel Well-Known Member

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    If I crack the bleeder screw, squeeze the handle and nothing comes out, that's bad, right? :roll:

    I tried bleeding brakes today. The fluid seems to back up out of the filler hole rather than going down to the caliper. That seems like the master cylinder is out. Is this a fair assumption? Or should I be looking at rebuilding calipers too?

    I have some braking. I suppose at least one caliper might be working.
     
  2. JPaganel

    JPaganel Well-Known Member

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    Also, it just occurred to me I might be able to use my handy dandy pressure bleeder I have for my Volvo. Except on the Volvo it pumps fluid into the brake bottle and out the calipers, while here I should be able to run it in reverse.

    Folks that have used the reverse bleeding with the syringe method, do you have to push hard to get fluid through, or is it relatively easy?
     
  3. jmilliken

    jmilliken Well-Known Member

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    What have you done to the bike? Has the MC or calipers been rebuilt? new lines?
     
  4. Durk

    Durk Member

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    Your brake lines could be swelling and preventing the bleeding. I couldn't bleed my anti dives until I got SS brake lines.
     
  5. ManBot13

    ManBot13 Well-Known Member

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    If nothing comes out of the bleed screws, your calipers and anti-dive units are GUMMED up. All the sediment and anything denser than brake fluid has settled there, the lowest point. The only remedy is to rebuild those units, fully flushing out, cleaning them, and replacing their seals.

    New brake lines are a must too, along with a MC rebuild. Stainless Steel brake lines are the way to go (the rubber is a fluid barrier, but the SS braid actually contains the pressure, so they last much longer than all rubber lines).

    Be forewarned, you'll be spending $300 or so, but it IS worth it. "Some braking" just isn't really acceptable. And the units are expected to be rebuilt on a time table that is fractions of a decade...so they're due.
     
  6. jmilliken

    jmilliken Well-Known Member

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    I was thinking plugged MC, but bad or kinked lines can never be ruled out either....
     
  7. JPaganel

    JPaganel Well-Known Member

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    Well, the first problem turned out to be that the bleeder screws had no holes. They rusted completely shut. Couldn't tell unless you pulled them, they looked fine on the outside.

    I got some new screws - NAPA stocks the correct size. Then I managed to flush from anti-dives to the calipers. That was some seriously nasty looking brake fluid.

    I don't think I got much of anything through the MC. I have MC and caliper rebuild kits on order. I want new lines, trying to come up with money for them.

    On the other hand, the brakes do seem to be working a little better. I've only been making slow circles around the block, though. :D
     
  8. MiGhost

    MiGhost Well-Known Member

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    Stop making slow circles with that bike.

    Those brakes have been living on borrowed time that ran out ages ago. The reccomened service life of the brake lines was only 4 years. The caliper seals only 2 years.

    While you are rebuilding everything. Rebuild Everything!! This includes the antidives, and new lines. The brake system will only be as good as the weakest link. That weak link will be the part you did not rebuild.

    Ghost
     
  9. Paiva

    Paiva Member

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    I just did this same job. After getting it all back together I noticed a pulsate. I sent the rotor's to "truedisk". WWW.truedisk.net. Tom resurfaced them to like new condition. It now stops like a new bike.
    Good luck with yours. Do yourself a favor and do it right the first time. You never know....
     

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